|Trip Duration 57 Days||Trip Grading Strenuous +|
|Max Altitude [8,516m/27,940ft]||Best TimeApr-May|
|Trip ModeHigh Altitude Expeditions||Group SizeMin 1 Max 10|
- Lhotse Expedition with Island peak climb
- Climb the fourth highest mountain in the world
- Follow the Everest climbing route
- Fully guided expedition with best Sherpa support
Lhotse Expedition 2020 Overview
Maximum Altitude: 8,516m/27,940ft Total Duration: 57 Days Coordinates: 27°57′42″ N 86°56′00″ E Climbing Route: West Face Couloir via South Col First Ascent: May 19,1956 Grade: Strenuous + Group Size: Max 12 Activity: Mountaineering and Climbing
Existing to the south of Everest, Lhotse is the fourth highest mountain in the world. Lhotse is linked with Everest by Everest South Col. Many climbers have preferred Western Face as the normal Lhotse Climbing Route. The southern face of Lhotse is considered as one of the world’s largest Mountain faces as the southern face soar high up to 3.2 km in mere 2.25km of horizontal distance. Lhotse Massif comprises of Lhotse East (8414m), Lhotse (8516m) and Lhotse Shar (8383m). The successful attempt of Lhotse was made in 1956 by a Swiss team. Lhotse is located near to Tibet and Lhotse in Tibetan dialect means South Peak. Since Everest and Lhotse is located near to each other, we will follow the same route to Everest through Everest South Col. Everest climbers head to the left of South Col while Lhotse Climbers take the right path.
Lhotse Climbing Route
The route progresses through Khumbu icefall. Moving further from base camp, we will reach Camp 1 (5,900m/19,500ft) that exists at the top of Khumbu icefall that is surrounded with crevasses. From Camp 1, we will pass through lateral moraine to west ridge that greets us with close-up view of Lhotse. This place is perfect for Camp2 (6,400m/21,000ft). Leaving Camp 2, we will reach near to Lhotse wall by crossing glacier and ice cliffs where we will set Camp3 (7,300m/23,700ft) . Camp4 (7,900m/25,912ft) is located near to South Col. From Camp 4, we will proceed through steep rock sections to the summit.
Why climb with us?
For over 30 yrs the people who helm this venture has been successfully organizing high altitude Expeditions ensuring safety first and service paramount. The success of expedition depends largely on carefully planned itinerary and best logistics and these are what we offer. We are committed in maintaining the expedition safe and success with quality of service. Our emphasis is always on maintaining the small group so that it will be easy to coordinate and cooperate with each other. You will be guided by highly professional mountain guides and they are one of the best in this field and has experience of successfully climbing Everest multiple times.
At Highland Expeditions, we provide 1:1 Sherpa to client and 1:4 climbing leader to client ratio. Compared to the facilities we provide; you will find our Lhotse Expedition cost to be very reasonable. We have no hidden fee. What you pay in the beginning is the final payment.
We are dedicated for providing highest professionalism throughout the expedition by taking utmost care of all the logistics needed for our Lhotse Expedition
- Day 01 : Arrival in Kathmandu [1,350m/4,430ft]
- Day 02-03 : Official formalities and climb preparation
- Day 04 : Fly to Lukla and trek to Phakding [2,600m/8,531ft]
- Day 05 : Trek to Namche Bazar [3,450m/11,319ft]
- Day 06 : Rest and Acclimatization day [3,450m/11,319ft]
- Day 07 : Trek to Deboche [3720 m/12,205ft]
- Day 08 : Trek to Dingboche [4,412m/14,475ft]
- Day 09 : Rest and Acclimatization day [4,412m/14,475ft]
- Day 10 : Trek to Chukung [4,730m/15,518ft]
- Day 11 : Trek to Island Peak Base Camp [5,200m/17,060ft]
- Day 12 : Pre Climb Training
- Day 13 : Summit Island Peak [6,119m/20,305ft] and back to Chukung
- Day 14 : Trek to Lobuche [4,910m/16,109ft] via Kongma La
- Day 15 : Trek to Gorekshep
- Day 16 : Trek to Lhotse Base Camp [5,364m/17,559ft]
- Day 17-50 : Climbing period
- Day 51 : Depart Base camp and trek to Pheriche
- Day 52 : Trek to Namche Bazar
- Day 53 : Trek to Lukla [2,800m/9187ft]
- Day 54 : Fly back to Kathmandu [1,350m/4,430ft]
- Day 55-56 : In Kathmandu [1,350m/4,430ft]
- Day 57 : International departure
Important Note: Your safety is of imperative concern while traveling with Highland Expeditions. Please take care to note that your leader/guide has the authority to amend or cancel any part of the itinerary if it is deemed necessary due to your safety concerns. Every effort will be made to keep to the above itinerary; however, since this adventure entails travelling in remote mountainous regions, we cannot guarantee that we will not deviate from it. Weather or health condition of a group member, unexpected natural disasters, etc., can all contribute to changes in the itinerary. The Trek & Climb leader/guide will try to ensure that the trip runs according to plan, but please be prepared to be flexible if required
Day 01 - Arrival in Kathmandu [1,350m/4,430ft]Arrival at Tribhuvan International Airport, Nepal. Upon completing the visa formalities and collecting your luggages in the airport, kindly proceed to the exit of the arrival hall. Your trip leader will await you just outside the arrival hall and will escort you to your hotel in Kathmandu. Please look out for a placard of Highland Expeditions.
Day 02-03 - Official formalities and climb preparationThese two days have been kept in Kathmandu for final preparation of Climb. Meet other team members, complete official and government formalities, final gear check and load. Upon your interest, an optional Kathmandu sightseeing can be arranged on these days. We will have a trip orientation and your trip leader will give you a brief about your climb before we head to our journey.
Day 04 - Fly to Lukla and trek to Phakding [2,600m/8,531ft]After an early morning b/fast, we take the mountain flight from Kathmandu to Lukla on STOL aircraft. Flight time is about 30 minutes to the airstrip built by Sir Edmund Hillary and the Sherpas in the mid-1960s. We begin the trek by descending towards the Dudh Kosi River, where we join the main trail to Namche Bazaar, just above Chaurikharka at 2713m. The walking is easy and after passing through the small village of Ghat at 2550m, it’s a short walk to Phakding where we’ll stay overnight.
Day 05 - Trek to Namche Bazar [3,450m/11,319ft]We will continue our journey along Dudhkoshi River which will take us through pine forest. After crossing suspension bridges at several points and passing through small settlements of Zapute, Toktok, Benkar and Chumoa, we will reach Monjo. This is known as the gateway to the Sagarmatha National Park. After completing all the necessary national park formalities, we will enter Sagarmatha National Park. Lowering down from the park, we will arrive at river. Crossing another suspension bridge, we will proceed towards high Hillary Bridge located at the foot of the hill. Crossing this bridge, we will climb uphill to the Namche Bazaar. We can get view of Thamserku Mountain. If weather is clear, we can also have first view of Mt. Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse and Kusum Khangru mountains.
Day 06 - Rest and Acclimatization day [3,450m/11,319ft]Namche Bazaar is regarded as gateway to the high Himalayas. It is also the main trading center and a capital of Sherpa land. Rest is recommended in Namche for acclimatization purpose. Short hike will be arranged to the ancient Sherpa village of Thame to observe the rich Sherpa culture or we can also visit nearby Khumjung, Khunde or Khongde villages. Shopping in marketplace of Namche is another fine idea. National Park Head office, Museum and monasteries are other places of interest. The area is clustered with cafes, shops, bakeries and restaurants. The place supports facilities of post office, hospital, government health post. Internet access is also available at Namche so that you can contact your near ones.
Day 07 - Trek to Deboche [3720 m/12,205ft]We will walk along the glacial water of Dudh Koshi River. The route offers views of Mt. Everest, Nuptse, Lhotse and, Thamserku and Ama Dablam Mountains. Our journey continues through the colorful forest of blooming rhododendron to Sanasa. The region is rich in wildlife including musk deer and colorful pheasants. In Sanasa lies the junction point. One of the paths leads us to the Gokyo valley while the other branches off to Everest Base Camp. We will take sharp climb to Tengboche monastery which is the largest in the Khumbu region. The journey rewards us with close-up views of many surrounding mountains. We will visit the monastery and walk through forest of birch and rhododendron to Deboche where we will stay overnight.
Day 08 - Trek to Dingboche [4,412m/14,475ft]We will descend to Imja River. The trail takes us uphill to Pangboche (3860m) through the lush forest. We will visit Pangboche Monastery. The village is also decorated with Chorten and Mani walls. The trail allows us an access to Imja Valley. We will take steep climb to Pheriche and continue further to Lobuche River. The final steepest climb of the day will take us to Dingboche. Agriculture is the chief occupation of locals in Dingboche. We can see fields enclosed by stonewall in Dingboche. Buckwheat, potatoes and barley are the major crops. We will stay overnight in Dingboche.
Day 09 - Rest and Acclimatization day [4,412m/14,475ft]This is a day to haul up and rest without being idle. We can stroll around the village and get pally with the local folks with some interesting conversations. This will give us deep insights into the lifestyles and cultures of the local folks in this region. At the same time, we can also relish the landscapes that surround us and we can also catch up on some reading. Our acclimatizing gets a further boost with our hike to Chhukung village. We then do a steep climb up to Chhukung Ri at 5550m [if we feel like it] and as we top it with gasping breath we soon realize the gritty climb was worth the go; the rewards are as lovely as it comes with the natural beauty that greets us for our efforts, the jaw-dropping vistas of Cho Oyu at 8201m, Pumori at 7161m, the gigantic Lhotse wall at 8400m, Amadablam at 6812m, Makalu at 8481m & Baruntse at 7129m all put together set our hearts on top gear as it skips a beat while watching these massive peaks.
Day 10 - Trek to Chukung [4,730m/15,518ft]An easy 3hrs of walk will take us to Chukung from Dingboche. Chukung is a picturesque hidden valley that is located close to Island Peak. We will proceed through Imja River Valley. The route is scenic with views of many spectacular mountains in Everest region. Climbing gears will be inspected in the evening. Overnight stay in Chukung.
Day 11 - Trek to Island Peak Base Camp [5,200m/17,060ft]We will head south towards the main valley in the east. Crossing streams at few points, the trail gets rough with boulders and glaciated rivers. We will cross Imja and Lhotse glacier moraines and arrive at the valley which serves as the Base Camp for Island peak. We will rejoice the striking view of southwestern face of Island peak. Stay overnight in Island Peak Base Camp.
Day 12 - Pre Climb TrainingYou will receive a pre climb training from our climbing guide on this day. You will get instructions on peak climbing techniques. You will also be taught how to use the climbing gears like ice axe, crampons, harness and ascender properly. You will learn how to use ropes while you move up and down. We will follow the trail through rock surface for up to around 5770m and then the terrain shifts to ice which is when ropes become life saver. We can also climb up to the High Camp and return to the Base Camp for practice. Stay overnight in Island Peak Base Camp.
Day 13 - Summit Island Peak [6,119m/20,305ft] and back to ChukungSince heavy wind blows during afternoon at the summit, our target will be to reach the summit before noon. Hence, we will wake up much early on this day. We will take moderate climb for the first part of the climb before reaching the steep hillside. The terrain frequently changes from sandy area to meadow to boulder. From the hill, we will follow the tapered path through a steep rock channel to emerge to the gully. Walking through a ridgeline, we conquer challenges proposed by seracs and crevasses. We will proceed through the snout of the summit glacier with the help of ropes and move through 40- degree snow slopes to reach the summit. The challenge of the climb is rewarded with the gratifying views of Lhotse Mountain, Nuptse Mountain, Makalu, Baruntse and Amadablam Mountains.
Day 14 - Trek to Lobuche [4,910m/16,109ft] via Kongma LaLeaving Chukung, we will head east and follow Khumbu glacier to the foot hill of Kongma La pass. The path is desolate with no permanent settlement. We can enjoy panoramic views of Amphu Lapcha Pass and Island Peak Valley from the summit of Kongma La Pass. We will descend from Kongma La Pass and follow the path along River to reach Lobuche where we will stay overnight.
Day 15 - Trek to GorekshepFrom Lobuche, we will take couple of hours along Khumbu glacier to reach Changri Nup Glacier. Brief walk from Changri Nup glacier will take us to Gorak Shep
Day 16 - Trek to Lhotse Base Camp [5,364m/17,559ft]Leaving Gorakshep early in the morning, Couple of hours of walk through Gorak Shep and walking further through rocky dunes and moraine, will lead us to Lhotse Base Camp. We will meet rest of our team at Base Camp.
Day 17-50 - Climbing periodThese days are dedicated to climb Lhotse. We will make three climbing attempts before making final attempt to the summit. Our first attempt will take us as far as Camp 1 from where we will return to Base Camp for overnight stay. Our second attempt will be to spend a night in Camp 1 and reach up to Camp 2. On our third attempt, we will reach up to Camp 3 and try to spend a night in Camp 3 before lowering down to Base Camp. On our final attempt, we will have pretty good idea about the difficulty, altitude and route that we have to conquer to reach summit. So, our fourth attempt will take us to the summit of Lhotse. After spending some time in the summit of Lhotse, we will lower down gradually to Base Camp where we will celebrate successful climbing of Lhotse.
Day 51 - Depart Base camp and trek to PhericheWe will begin our return trip on this day. We will leave Lhotse Base Camp and retrace our route to Pheriche where we will stay overnight.
Day 52 - Trek to Namche BazarLeaving Pheriche early in the morning, we will follow the return trail along Imja River that takes us through the forest of birch and spruce to Tengboche village. After brief stop in Tengboche, we will follow the trail through forest of blooming rhododendron to the bridge. We will cross the bridge over Dudh Koshi River and move through Dudh Koshi gorge and pine forest to Sansa village. The region is rich in Himalayan wildlife like mountain goats, Thars and local birds. We will pass through the chorten to the army camp at Namche Bazaar. Stay overnight in Namche Bazaar.
Day 53 - Trek to Lukla [2,800m/9187ft]We will take the downhill walk from Namche that leads us to the bridge over Dudh Koshi River. Moving further, we will arrive at Monjo where we need to fulfill the official formalities at the check post of Sagarmatha National Park. We will retrace the route back to Phakding where we will take lunch before moving to Lukla. The trail is easy and colorful marked by prayer stones and prayer flags. We will stay overnight in a lodge in Lukla. Arrange your photo albums or write a journal. This is the last day of our trek in Himalayas.
Day 54 - Fly back to Kathmandu [1,350m/4,430ft]Take an early morning flight from Lukla to Kathmandu. We will be transferred to hotel in a private vehicle in Kathmandu. Take leisure and soothe your aching limbs from long and tiring climb.
Day 55-56 - In Kathmandu [1,350m/4,430ft]Enjoy a leisure day. You are on your own. Participating in a day tour in Kathmandu is a pleasant plan. You can also go for shopping in Thamel, a tourist hub where you can buy souvenir items like handicrafts and arts to your family. At eventide on day 56, we will relish a farewell dinner to celebrate our successful climb. While enjoying our supper, we will also be entertained to a scintillating cultural dance performed by the local belles Please do not hesitate to let us know if you would like to extend your stay. Kindly email us for more details on extensions.
Day 57 - International departureFinally, the undeniable day of departure arrives. Thank you for joining us on this climb and it has been a pleasure getting to know you during this time. We hope this venture has enriched your experience with happy memories. You will be assisted in your last minute preparation. Our representative will take you to Tribhuvan International Airport three hours before your scheduled flight. Keep in touch and hope to hear from you soon. Bon voyage for a safe and pleasant trip home.
Given below are the fixed departure dates for this trip. If the dates don’t match with your schedule, then kindly let us know and we will arrange a private trip customizing the departure dates suitable for you. The cost below is per person on group joining basis excluding the international flights. Group discount is available for booking of two or more than two persons. Kindly contact us if you have a bigger group for the discount.expand all / collapse allMedia Gallery Reviews
- 1:1 Sherpa to climber ratio and 1:4 leader to client ratio to assist during climb
- 4 bottled oxygen with use of latest mask and regulator
- Nepalese government royalty fees for Lhotse.
- All expedition organizational requirements
- Island Peak climb for acclimatization
- Service of base camp manager and climbing sirdars
- Satellite communication system at base camp but nominal charge for use
- Radio set for communication between camps
- Meals at base camp and higher camps during expedition
- Personal tents at BC, high tents, kitchen tents, dining tents, shower tents, toilet tents, store tents, cooking utensils and more for your comfort.
- 6 nights accommodation at Kathmandu Guest House with breakfast on deluxe room
- Meals (B,L,D) and accommodation during trek upto BC and back to Lukla after expedition
- Ktm-Lukla-Ktm airfare
- Staffs wages, allowances with their insurance
- Common climbing equipment
- Porterage of climbing equipment up to base camp and back to Lukla after expedition
- Khumbu icefall route fee
- Liaison officer daily wages and fees
- Applicable national park fees and local taxes
- 2 waterproof duffel bags
- International airfare
- Meals in Kathmandu
- Custom for bringing any expedition goods
- Nepal entry visa fees
- Personal clothing and equipment
- Insurance (Mandatory)
- Summit bonus
- Gratuities for staff
- Personal expenses
TRIP GRADE – Strenuous +
High Altitude Expeditions like Lhotse requires previous mountaineering experience and it is expected that the climber has previous experience of climbing at least 7000m peak. Prepare yourself to tackle high altitude sickness, tough weather conditions and exhaustion. A fierce determination and a burning desire to climb the mountain are the essential pre-requisites for joining this expedition. One needs to be familiar with walking in snow and ice and must have good standard of fitness. You should be familiar with Rope skills, ice axe arrest and crampon skills, the use of ascenders (Jumar) and descenders, and how to use your particular harness.
Meals are included in our expedition and are served in Lodges located along the trek to base camp and to Lukla after the expedition. We consider delicious and nutritious food to be a key component to the overall success of our expeditions. We charter the food in by flight and take the utmost care in quality preparation. Our High Altitude Chef will be with us for all meals at Base Camp and Camp 2. You could bring things which you enjoy eating - chocolates, power bars, dry fruits, candies, other snacks etc.
In Kathmandu we stay at Kathmandu Guest House, a well-known hotel. Centrally located in Thamel, the hotel also boasts of a beautiful garden where you can relax and enjoy the greenery. During the trekking upto base camp we stay at teahouses and lodges as there are many clean and friendly Lodges along the trail. Rooms are basic, normally just a bed with a pillow and blankets. Our base camp is well appointed, providing each climber a comfortable environment. There will be a warm dining room, personal tent for each individual, kitchen tent, shower and etc and more for your comfort.
Our emphasis is always on maintaining the small group so that it will be easy to coordinate and cooperate with each other especially in high altitude expeditions like Lhotse. You will get to know your Sherpa guide and team member personally. Being a small group is always efficient on bigger mountain. Our group size is small and your Sherpa guides will not only assist you at the summit push but will also assist you in the rotation of higher camps.
It’s mandatory and highly recommended to get insurance before embarking on any adventurous activities like high altitude expeditions. We advise all our clients to get a insurance that covers up emergency helicopter evacuation that may be needed in case of the occurrence of AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness) in high altitudes where there are no other means of transportation available. Medical expenses, Baggage lost, Delays and Cancellation, Death & Repatriation are also another important factor to include when purchasing your Insurance. It is advisable to review carefully the insurance and its coverage before making the final decision.
In case of a serious sickness or a casualty; we undertake to do everything possible to transfer you to the nearest hospital. Since you are entirely liable for all the expenses incurred in evacuation, kindly ensure that all expenses are fully covered by your insurance before assigning it or must be prepared to pay on your own after getting back to Kathmandu.
The gear listed below are required for the expedition. We encourage you to get all equipment listed below and kindly ensure you check and try every equipment . You can also buy or hire the same in Kathmandu as they are available in the many trekking shops from branded to local manufacturers in Kathmandu.
- Warm Hat and Bandana/Scarf
- Baseball cap
- Thermal Balaclava
- Sunglasses with UV protection
- Ski goggles (Anti fog and good ventilation)
- Headlight X 2 with spare batteries
- Climbing helmet
- Long-sleeved shirts
- Base layers
- Warm Jackets/Sweater/Pullover
- Waterproof jackets
- Down Jacket with hood (800m fill)
- Primaloft or light down jacket
- Down Suit (Light weight, comfortable fit and 800m fill)
- Inner wears / Base layers
- Under garments
- Waterproof trousers
- Trekking trousers
- Down or Primaloft pants
- Warm socks (4 pair thin socks and 4 pair thick socks)
- Trekking shoes (Preferably full to protect/support your ankle)
- 8000m Mountaineering boots (Lightweight and comfortable size)
- Camp Shoes
- Down shoes
- Primaloft Mitten
- Down Mitten
- Backpack 30-35 liters (To carry your sunblock, water, camera, waterproof jackets and others that you may require while trekking)
- Backpack 60-70 liters for climbing
- A pair of trekking poles
- Ascender/Jumar (Large handle)
- Carabiners (4 screw gate and 4 snap gate)
- Prussik cord X 2
- Slings X 2
- Ice Axe
- Steel crampons
- Inflatable sleeping mattress
- Sleeping bag X 2 (One for base camp and one for higher camps)
- Water bottle one (1) litre
- Multi – tool knife
- Pee bottle
- Laundry bag to keep the dirty clothes
- Large plastic bags to keep the clothes dry
- Sewing kit
- Duct tape
- Reading materials, note books and pens
- Extra clothes to wear in Kathmandu when you come back from trek.
- Camera with charger or spare batteries
Toiletries and hygiene
- Quick drying towel
- Small face towel
- Toothbrush &Toothpaste
- Deodorants, Soap and Shampoo (Smaller bottle)
- Face and body moisturizer, Sun screen and lip balm
- Hand sanitizer/Antiseptic wipes
- Hygiene products
- Basic first aid kit
- Passport with visa and validity of 6 months after your trip completion
- 4 copies of passport size photos for permits and official formalities
- Travel Insurance (Please refer to the general information page for more detail about it)
- Flight tickets
- Credit cards in case of emergencies
- Driving ID or any other ID in case of loss of your passport.
(Please carry the photo copy of all the documents along with you and leave a copy to next of kin)
Your Sherpa Crew
Our Sherpa crews are critical to the success of your climbs that you do with us. We us professionally trained Sherpa guides & sirdars who are just not hikers & climbers on the mountains but have been trained to perform this task with a lot of common sense & guile.
Kunga Sherpa, Everest summitter and founder of Highland Expeditions, who has successfully guided and organized over 40 expeditions to 8000m as an expedition sirdar oversees our experienced Sherpa crew that will be with you on the climb. We ensure that they are confident & experienced. Most of our guides were born in these parts & have relatives living on other parts of the regions where they were born in.
We know that locally born staffs are a vital cog in that wheel of sometimes dangerous adventure where anything can happen.
At Highland Expeditions, we always make sure that our mountain crews are highly motivated & never compromise.
Previous Experience Required:
High Altitude Expeditions like Lhotse requires previous mountaineering experience and it is expected that the climber has previous experience of climbing at least 7000m peak or 8000m peak like Cho-Oyu or Manaslu before attempting bigger mountains. Prepare yourself to tackle high altitude sickness, tough weather conditions and exhaustion. A fierce determination and a burning desire to climb the mountain are the essential pre-requisites for joining this expedition. One needs to be familiar with walking in snow and ice and must have good standard of fitness. You should be familiar with Rope skills, ice axe arrest and crampon skills, the use of ascenders (Jumar) and descenders, and how to use your particular harness
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