Three peaks climbing
Island Peak Climbing
mera peak climbing

Mera and Island Peak with Amphu Laptcha Pass

28 Days (6,476m/21,247ft)
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Quick Facts

Trip Duration 28 Days Trip Grading Strenous
Max Altitude (6,476m/21,247ft) Best TimeApr - May
Oct - Nov
Trip ModeTeahouse / Camping Group SizeMin 1 Max 12
Overview

Trip Highlights

  • Climb the two famous peaks in Nepal
  • An ultimate climbing holiday
  • Remote and stunning Amphu Laptcha Pass
  • 1:3 climbing guide to client ratio 

Trip Overview

Mera and Island are two most popular peaks to climb in Nepal and both peaks are an ideal peak for people looking for their first Himalayan climb. Both peaks are highly sought-after summits and Highland Expeditions offers the climb which allows you to experience Mera Peak and Island Peak in a single itinerary. We will begin our climb with Mera Peak and conclude with the Island Peak traversing Amphu Lapcha Pass (5,780m). The Pass links Mera with Chukung valley which is home to scenic Island Peak. Mera and Island Peak Climb with Amphu Laptcha Pass is an ultimate climbing holiday and provides a real experience of mountaineering. Our guides will be assisting you through the climb.

Mera Peak (6,476m/21,247ft)

The highest trekking peak in Nepal, Mera Peak Climbing progresses through non-technical route and thus Mera Peak Climb is for all of the adventure enthusiasts who has will and determination to make the most out of their adventure in Himalaya. Mera is not a technically difficult peak to climb as compared to Island but you will need a good level of fitness and you are good to go. The climb rewards us with panoramic views of Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, Cho Oyu, Kanchenjunga and other peaks and mountains. Come and have three sixty-degree views of glistening mountains from one of the most stunning viewpoint in Nepal.

Island Peak (6,189m/20,305ft)

Climbing Island Peak requires technical skills as the route takes us through scramble of rocks, ridges and glaciers. We need to climb through the steep section to reach the summit that allows views of Lhotse, Amadblam and other surrounding peaks and mountains. The ascent of Island Peak is not technically very difficult. It is graded as Alpine PD+. Much of the climb is on glacial terrain or 45 degree snow slopes with some steeper sections and with a summit ridge which is narrow in places. Fixed lines are used to protect climbers on all steep or exposed sections but climbing the steep section and tapered summit ridge demands better physical strength.

About Climb

Our climb gets into gear with rendezvousing at Kathmandu, the capital city of Nepal. After checking our gears for the final time in Kathmandu we embark on a fantastic mountain flight to the legendary Lukla airport built with the help of the famous mountaineer we all know as the late Sir Edmund Hillary. Our itinerary for Mera and Island peak with Amphu Laptcha pass has been devised keeping every aspects in mind and thus our itinerary is slightly longer, giving you plenty of time to acclimatize and to maximise the success ratio. From Lukla, we head to Makalu Barun National park for our first climb, Mera Peak. Mera is the highest trekking peak in Nepal and from Mera we will traverse the Amphu Laptcha pass to reach Chukung for our next climb, Island Peak.  Pre-climbing training will be provided at the base camp before the actual climb and our guides will teach you skills and techniques required to climb each peaks.

Experience required

Our Mera and Island peak climbing expedition includes ascent of two peaks higher than 6000m and traverse of Amphu Laptcha Pass at 5,700m so it is beneficial to have previous experience of climbing. Previous experience of climbing at high altitude with use of climbing equipments are highly beneficial and you will need a very strong physical stamina level. Prepare yourself for climbing above 5000m altitude with daily exercise and gym. You will be given pre-climbing training during which you will be provided skills on how to use fixed ropes and basic climbing skills will be shared.  One needs to be familiar with walking in snow, rock and must have good standard of fitness. It would be beneficial to prepare yourself for the climb with some regular training including running, cycling or gym work. Be prepared to walk for 6-7 hrs per day on average carrying 5-8

Outline Itinerary

  • Day 01 : Arrival in Kathmandu [1,350m/4,430ft]
  • Day 02 : Exploration of Kathmandu and climb preparation [1,350m/4,430ft]
  • Day 03 : Fly to Lukla and trek to Poyan (2,800m/9,184ft)
  • Day 04 : Trek to Pangoma (2,850m/9,348ft)
  • Day 05 : Trek to Nashing Dingma (2,600m/8,502ft)
  • Day 06 : Cross Surke La (3,030m/9,940ft)) and trek to Chalem Kharka (3,550m/11,645ft)
  • Day 07 : Trek to Chungbu Kharka (4,200m/13,776ft)
  • Day 08 : Rest and acclimatization day
  • Day 09 : Trek to Khote [3,600m/11,812ft]
  • Day 10 : Trek to Tagnag [4,356m/14,292ft]
  • Day 11 : Rest and Acclimatization day [4,356m/14,292ft]
  • Day 12 : Trek to Khare [5,045m/16,552ft]
  • Day 13 : Pre Climb training [5,045m/16,552ft]
  • Day 14 : Trek to Mera La [5,415m/17,765ft]
  • Day 15 : Trek to High Camp [5,800m/19,029ft]
  • Day 16 : Summit Mera Peak [6,476m/21,247ft] and trek to khongma Ding [4,840m/15,180ft]
  • Day 17 : Trek to Seto Pokhari [5,000m/16,405ft]
  • Day 18 : Trek to Amphu Lapcha High camp [5,400m/17,717ft]
  • Day 19 : Island Peak Base Camp [5,200m/17,060ft] via Amphu Lapcha Pass [5,700m/18,701ft]
  • Day 20 : Contingency day for any delays
  • Day 21 : Trek to Island peak High Camp [5,345m/17,537ft]
  • Day 22 : Summit Island Peak [6,189m/20,305ft] and trek to Chukhung (4,730m/15,518ft)
  • Day 23 : Trek to Pangboche [3,985m/13,075ft]
  • Day 24 : Trek to Namche Bazar [3,450m/11,319ft]
  • Day 25 : Trek to Lukla [2,800m/9187ft]
  • Day 26 : Fly back to Kathmandu [1,350m/4,430ft]
  • Day 27 : In Kathmandu [1,350m/4,430ft]
  • Day 28 : International departure

Important Note: Your safety is of imperative concern while travelling with Highland Expeditions. Please take care to note that your leader has the authority to amend or cancel any part of the itinerary if it is deemed necessary due to your safety concerns. Every effort will be made to keep to the above itinerary; however, since this adventure entails travelling in remote mountainous regions, we cannot guarantee that we will not deviate from it. Weather or health condition of a group member, unexpected natural disasters, etc., can all contribute to changes in the itinerary. The trek leader will try to ensure that the trip runs according to plan, but please be prepared to be flexible if required.

Map & Itinerary
  • Day 01 - Arrival in Kathmandu [1,350m/4,430ft]

    • Meal : None
    • Accommodation : Hotel
  • Day 02 - Exploration of Kathmandu and climb preparation [1,350m/4,430ft]

    • Meal : (B)
    • Accommodation : Hotel
  • Day 03 - Fly to Lukla and trek to Poyan (2,800m/9,184ft)

    • Meal : (B,L,D)
    • Accommodation : Teahouse/Lodge
  • Day 04 - Trek to Pangoma (2,850m/9,348ft)

    • Meal : (B,L,D)
    • Accommodation : Teahouse/lodge
  • Day 05 - Trek to Nashing Dingma (2,600m/8,502ft)

    • Meal : (B,L,D)
    • Accommodation : Teahouse/Lodge
  • Day 06 - Cross Surke La (3,030m/9,940ft)) and trek to Chalem Kharka (3,550m/11,645ft)

    • Meal : (B,L,D)
    • Accommodation : Teahouse/lodge
  • Day 07 - Trek to Chungbu Kharka (4,200m/13,776ft)

    • Meal : (B,L,D)
    • Accommodation : Teahouse/Lodge
  • Day 08 - Rest and acclimatization day

    • Meal : (B,L,D)
    • Accommodation : Teahouse/lodge
  • Day 09 - Trek to Khote [3,600m/11,812ft]

    • Meal : (B,L,D)
    • Accommodation : Teahouse/Lodge
  • Day 10 - Trek to Tagnag [4,356m/14,292ft]

    • Meal : (B,L,D)
    • Accommodation : Teahouse/Lodge
  • Day 11 - Rest and Acclimatization day [4,356m/14,292ft]

    • Meal : (B,L,D)
    • Accommodation : Teahouse/Lodge
  • Day 12 - Trek to Khare [5,045m/16,552ft]

    • Meal : (B,L,D)
    • Accommodation : Teahouse/Lodge
  • Day 13 - Pre Climb training [5,045m/16,552ft]

    • Meal : (B,L,D)
    • Accommodation : Teahouse/Lodge
  • Day 14 - Trek to Mera La [5,415m/17,765ft]

    • Meal : (B,L,D)
    • Accommodation : Camping
  • Day 15 - Trek to High Camp [5,800m/19,029ft]

    • Meal : (B,L,D)
    • Accommodation : Camping
  • Day 16 - Summit Mera Peak [6,476m/21,247ft] and trek to khongma Ding [4,840m/15,180ft]

    • Meal : (B,L,D)
    • Accommodation : Camping
  • Day 17 - Trek to Seto Pokhari [5,000m/16,405ft]

    • Meal : (B,L,D)
    • Accommodation : Camping
  • Day 18 - Trek to Amphu Lapcha High camp [5,400m/17,717ft]

    • Meal : (B,L,D)
    • Accommodation : Camping
  • Day 19 - Island Peak Base Camp [5,200m/17,060ft] via Amphu Lapcha Pass [5,700m/18,701ft]

    • Meal : (B,L,D)
    • Accommodation : Camping
  • Day 20 - Contingency day for any delays

    • Meal : (B,L,D)
    • Accommodation : Camping
  • Day 21 - Trek to Island peak High Camp [5,345m/17,537ft]

    • Meal : (B,L,D)
    • Accommodation : Camping
  • Day 22 - Summit Island Peak [6,189m/20,305ft] and trek to Chukhung (4,730m/15,518ft)

    • Meal : (B,L,D)
    • Accommodation : Teahouse/Lodge
  • Day 23 - Trek to Pangboche [3,985m/13,075ft]

    • Meal : (B,L,D)
    • Accommodation : Teahouse/Lodge
  • Day 24 - Trek to Namche Bazar [3,450m/11,319ft]

    • Meal : (B,L,D)
    • Accommodation : Teahouse/Lodge
  • Day 25 - Trek to Lukla [2,800m/9187ft]

    • Meal : (B,L,D)
    • Accommodation : Teahouse/Lodge
  • Day 26 - Fly back to Kathmandu [1,350m/4,430ft]

    • Meal : (B)
    • Accommodation : Hotel
  • Day 27 - In Kathmandu [1,350m/4,430ft]

    • Meal : (B)
    • Accommodation : Hotel
  • Day 28 - International departure

    • Meal : (B)
    • Accommodation : None
    • Trekking Hours :
Dates & Price

Given below are the fixed departure dates for this trip. If the dates don’t match with your schedule, then kindly let us know and we will arrange a private trip customizing the departure dates suitable for you. The cost below is per person on group joining basis excluding the international flights. Group discount is available for booking of two or more than two persons. Kindly contact us if you have a bigger group for the discount.

2018 Departures
Trip Start Date Trip End Date Price
03 Apr, 2018 30 Apr, 2018 USD 4,500 Available Book Now
20 Apr, 2018 17 May, 2018 USD 4,500 Available Book Now
10 Oct, 2018 06 Nov, 2018 USD 4,200 Available Book Now
25 Oct, 2018 21 Nov, 2018 USD 4,200 Available Book Now
Trip Info
expand all / collapse all

Cost Inclusion

  • Fully guided climb with experienced Climbing Sherpa guide (1:3 Sherpa guide to client ratio)
  • Mera and Island peaks climbing permit with garbage deposit
  • Meals and High quality mountain tents for base camp and higher camps
  • Guided trek with all meals (B,L,D) and accommodation at Teahouses/Lodges during trek upto Base camp and to Lukla
  • 4 nights accommodation in Kathmandu with breakfast
  • KTM-LUA-KTM Airfare
  • All ground transportation as per mentioned in the itinerary on private A/C Vehicle
  • Staffs wages, allowances with their insurance and helicopter rescue
  • Summit bonus for climbing Sherpa
  • Common/Group climbing equipment
  • Personal climbing gears
  • Comprehensive first aid kit
  • Peak climbing certificate issued by Nepal Mountaineering Association
  • Rescue arrangements
  • Porterage of climbing equipment up to base camp and back to Lukla after expedition
  • Applicable national park fees and local taxes
  • 2 waterproof duffel bags

Cost Exclusion

  • International airfare
  • Meals in Kathmandu
  • Custom for bringing any expedition goods
  • Nepal entry visa fees
  • Personal clothing
  • Insurance/Emergency evacuation and VISA
  • Gratuities for staff

Important note

The day-to-day program is subject to weather, conditions and the progress and wishes of the group. Most importantly, the leaders will be making daily decisions, for example, about exactly how far or which way we go, and will be thinking ultimately about the safety and health of all in the party, as well as the enjoyment of the group and success in the outcome of the trek and climb. We ensure liability as per indicated itinerary and list of services. If the holiday is cut short or completed earlier than the projected period upon client’s wish, we shall not be responsible or make refund against unutilized days or services. Clients need to pay extra for Hotels/services incurred in Kathmandu or elsewhere in such cases.

Climate

The best seasons for Mera and Island Climb are Autumn (from October till end of November) and Spring (April to mid-May). Temperatures will drop considerably as you ascend higher every day. The nights are cold (between -20C to -5C) and the days are sunny and hot (between 10C to 20C).  Mornings are usually clear, with clouds building up in the afternoon and disappearing at night. Trekking and climbing during the monsoon seasons and winters are not recommended as the visibility is poor and limited whilst upper parts and high passes could be covered with snow. 

TRIP GRADE – Strenous

Mera and Island Peak are graded under Alpine PD+ which suggests it to be a challenging climb. Use of ice axe and crampons is a must to climb these slopes. Since you will be receiving a full day pre-climb training, where you can learn mountaineering skills and know the correct way of using climbing gears, previous experience of climbing is not essential. It would be beneficial to prepare yourself for the climb with some regular training including running, cycling or gym work. Be prepared to walk for 6-7 hrs per day on average.

A Typical Day

Daily wake up calls will be between 6.00 am to 7.00 am while on trek.  You will be served a hot cup of tea/coffee at your room followed by a small basin of hot water to wash up. Before breakfast you are required to pack your duffel bag as it will be loaded by the porter during  breakfast. We will have our lunch break after few hours of trek and  ample time to rest and perhaps some reading during that break. Trek after lunch will be generally shorter enabling us to reach camp. Evening time is free to do your own things and dinner will be served at 7:00 pm mostly. Please bring your flask and/or water bottles for refill of hot water/drinking water for personal use at night. After dinner, the evening is free to play cards and recall the day's adventures, before heading off to bed for a well-earned sleep.

Meals

We consider hearty and delicious meals as a key component to the overall success of our trip. Our Chef will prepare exceptional meals and ensure its quality preparation during the climbing period. During trekking period, meals are served in Lodges located along the trail. You can find a wide variety of Nepali and Western food as well as drinks (coffee, tea, milk, soft drinks, and beer). You can and is encouraged to bring along comfort food which you enjoy eating - chocolates, power bars, dry fruits, candies, other snacks etc.

Accommodation

In Kathmandu: We stay at Kathmandu Guest House, a well-known hotel where many famous celebrities like Beatles, Ricky Martin, Jeremy Irons and others have stayed. Centrally located in Thamel, the hotel also boasts of a beautiful garden where you can relax and enjoy the greenery.  Breakfast will be provided in the hotel and your accommodation will be on twin sharing basis and if you would like to have single room, upon request you are required to pay single supplement price as stated in the trip costing.

On Trek (Teahouse/Lodge): Trekking in the (Mera area) does not need tremendous logistics in accommodation as there are many clean and friendly Lodges along the trail. Rooms are basic, normally just a bed with a pillow and blankets.  A few have electric lights and all have a spacious dining room-lounge. We will arrange for you and your group to stay in local lodges daily. Please remember that some of them are very basic and a sense of adventure is necessary. 

At Base Camp (Tented Camping): We provide high quality mountain tents for base camp and high camp. For every 2 persons, a tent is provided together with a sleeping bag, mattress, pillow and other for comfort.  You may consider to bring along an extra mattress or inflatable mat.

Group size

Our emphasis is always on maintaining the small group so that it will be easy to coordinate and cooperate with each other. Our group size is small and we only take up to 12 pax in one group. If you opt to join our ‘fixed departure trip’, you are likely to be joining people from different countries of any age group except minors. The size of group varies, minimum no of persons required to operate a trip is 1 the maximum is 12 people.

Flight / Land Transfers

The starting point of the trek is from Lukla, which is connected by a short 30 minutes’ flight from Kathmandu. We will arrange to transfer you and your group from the hotel to the airport (Kathmandu) for departure and to take your group back to the hotel upon your return to Kathmandu.

Travel Insurance

It’s mandatory and highly recommended to get  travel insurance before embarking on any adventurous trips in Nepal. We advise all our clients to get a travel insurance that covers up emergency helicopter evacuation that may be needed in case of the occurrence of AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness)  in high altitudes where there are no other means of transportation available. Medical expenses, Baggage lost, Delays and Cancellation, Death & Repatriation are also another important factor to include when purchasing your Insurance. It is advisable to review carefully the insurance and its coverages before making the final decision.

https://highlandexpeditions.com/general-info/travel-insurance/

 

Tipping and Taxes

Though tipping is not compulsory but gratuity is appreciated.   A suggestion of an allocation of USD 10.00 per day per person for climbing trips– this can be handed to the leader/Sirdar at the end of the trek in the presence of the staff for distribution as gratitude.  You can also give your trekking equipment such as boots, jackets, trekking poles, head torches to the crew.

On the last day of the trek, we will have a celebration night with all our trekking crew and we suggest the gratuity to the staff be given only at the end of the trek.

Communication

Telephone facilities in the Mera region is fair. On the way back to Lukla from Island peak, you can get WIFI and internet services. On peak climbing trips, we always provide satellite phone for emergency purpose. If you need to keep in contact with our family or others, kindly request from us in advance a local sim card.

First Aid Kit

We supply a first aid kit with standard medicines prescribed by doctors for emergency purposes.  Besides that, upon request and with additional cost, we can provide for a High Altitude Mountain doctor.  Your trip leader/Guide is experienced and has knowledge in medications.   But if you are more comfortable, we suggest that you bring along your own common medication supplies such as pain-killers, for cold, diarrhoea, nausea and fever.  Some nasal ointment and throat-moisturising pills will be of great help for those who are sensitive to chilly or freezing weather conditions.  Age is no barrier to undertake an unforgettable trekking experience.

People And Culture

Sherpas live in the upper regions of SoluKhumbu.  They emigrated from Tibet about 600 years ago. The Khumbu region has provided a strong group of able bodied, hardy and fearless Sherpa porters and guides. Sherpas practice Tibetan Buddhism, which is also known as Lama Buddhism.

Personal Expenses

Everest region is more expensive than the other regions in Nepal, as most of the goods has to be air-flown and then laboriously carried to their final destination by porters. You need cash for table drinks (alcoholic/non-alcoholic beverages), snacks while walking (a few smaller shops are available along the trail in some areas) tips, souvenirs, hot shower (only available in some places).

Itinerary Changes

The itineraries for each trip should be taken as a guideline only. Depending on prevailing situation, you can modify it to some extent after consulting with your guide. However, the date of trek completion must coincide with the original itinerary.

You should keep in mind that this is an adventure trip into a remote mountain region, where many unforeseen events may contribute to the need for a change in itinerary. In such cases, we or your guide will suggest the best alternative similar to your original program.

Rescue/Evacuations

In case of a serious sickness or a casualty; we undertake to do everything possible to transfer you to the nearest hospital.  Since you are entirely liable for all the expenses incurred in evacuation, kindly ensure that all expenses are fully covered by your insurance before assigning it or must be prepared to pay on your own after getting back to Kathmandu.

Luggage While Trekking

While on the trek, your main luggage will be carried by porters.  You only carry a day pack with water bottle, camera, sun-screen, spare jacket, etc.  - a small load that allows full enjoyment of the trek. A trek bag is ideal for your main luggage, plus a small lockable bag for travel clothes or anything that you do not need during trek which you can leave at hotel’s locker room/safe deposit box which is not chargeable in Kathmandu.  Weight allowance at Nepal’s domestic airlines is 15kg, excess weight is chargeable at USD1.00   or more per Kilo depending on sectors.

Care For Porters And Staff

Our porters and staff are provided with adequate clothing and equipment for high altitude conditions. They are also well paid and is well groomed.

Equipment Checklist

The gear listed below is recommended for these kind of trips. We encourage you to get all equipment listed below for the trip and kindly ensure you check and try every equipment .   You can also buy or hire the same in Kathmandu as they are available in the many trekking shops from branded to local manufacturers in Kathmandu.

Clothing and Footwear

  • Long-sleeved shirts
  • T-Shirts
  • Trousers
  • Warm Jackets/Sweater/Pullover
  • Waterproof jackets and trousers
  • Thermal
  • Inner wears
  • Under garments
  • Warm socks
  • Warm Hat, Gloves (Down) and Bandana/Scarf
  • Extra clothes to wear in Kathmandu when you come back from trek.
  • Trekking shoes (Full)
  • Snow Gaiter
  • Slippers/Flip flops to wear at camp
  • Daypack 30-35 litres (To carry your sunblock, water, camera, waterproof jackets and others that you may require while trekking)

Documents

  • Passport with visa and validity of 6 months after your trip completion
  • 4 copies of passport size photos for permits and official formalities
  • Travel Insurance (Please refer to the general information page for more detail about it)
  • Flight tickets
  • Credit cards in case of emergencies
  • Driving ID or any other ID in case of loss of your passport.

(Please carry the photo copy of all the documents along with you and leave a copy to next of kin)

Others

  • Thermarest or similar sleeping mat
  • Headlamps with extra batteries
  • Sunglasses with UV protection
  • Camera with charger or spare batteries
  • A pair of trekking poles
  • Water bottle one (1) litre
  • Laundry bag to keep the dirty clothes
  • Large plastic bags to keep the clothes dry
  • Padlock
  • Binoculars
  • Reading materials, note books and pens

Toiletries and hygiene

  • Quick drying towel
  • Small face towel
  • Toothbrush &Toothpaste
  • Deodorants, Soap and Shampoo (Smaller bottle)
  • Face and body moisturizer, Sun screen and lip balm
  • Hand sanitizer/Antiseptic wipes
  • Hygiene products
  • Basic first aid kit

The gears listed below will be provided by us for the trek. Down Jacket and Sleeping Bag must be returned after the completion of trek.

  • Down Jacket
  • Sleeping bag with Liner
  • Duffel/Kit Bag
  • Group climbing gears

Personal climbing gears:

  • Plastic mountaineering boots
  • Mountaineering/Climbing Harness
  • Helmet (Optional)
  • Ice Axe
  • Crampons
  • Ascender/Jumar
  • Descender/ 8 figure (Rappelling device)
  • Screw gate Karabiners (Lock 2/Unlock 2)
  • Prusik loop

Trip Extensions

In addition to your trek, we can organize extension trips to both within Nepal and other neighboring countries. For example, you may want to try water-rafting or a jungle safari in Nepal or even a Nepal Cultural Tours. If time permits, you may even want to include a trip to our neighboring countries i.e.  Tibet, India or Bhutan.

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