Ama Dablam Expedition 2017

An ascent of Iconic Mountain in Himalaya

31 Days 6,812 m/20,283 ft
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Quick Facts

Trip Duration 31 Days Trip Grading Strenuous
Max Altitude 6,812 m/20,283 ft Best TimeOct-Nov
Trip ModeTeahouse/Camping Group SizeMin 1 - Max 10
Overview

Trip Highlights

  • Technically challenging mountain in the Khumbu region
  • Follow the southwest ridge to the summit
  • Fully supported expedition with the best Sherpa support
  • A true Alpinist's dream

Trip Overview

Famously known as Mountaineer’s mountain, Ama Dablam is one of the technical mountain in the Khumbu region of Himalaya, that stands tall at 6812m. The glacier lurking from the southwestern face gives an impression of jewel dangling from the neck of mountain which gave it the name of Ama Dablam (meaning Mother’s Jewel), this is a steep pyramid of ice with vertical walls and sharp, exposed ridges. Get the technical climbing experience of conquering this mountain sharply pointed. Ama Dablam summit allows panoramic views of eight thousanders including Everest, Cho Oyu, Makalu and Lhotse.

We will follow the standard route through south west ridge to the summit. This route is the safest and is free from risk of avalanches. We need to cross 40-45 degree slopes.

Climbing Strategy:

Careful strategy is important for successful climb. We will spend few days at Amadablam Base Camp for proper acclimatization. Rotation of High Camps is effective before making the final attempt to the summit. Hence, we will practice climbing to Camp 2 (5900m) and descending to Lower Camps for making our body well acclimatized to the high altitude. On first rotation, we will carry small load to Camp 1 (5700m) and then return to our Base Camp. On our next rotation, we will sleep at Camp 1 and early in the morning of next day, we will climb to Camp 2. In a final rotation, those feeling comfortable will sleep at Camp 2 while other climbers will descend to lower camps for rejuvenation before making the final attempt for the summit.

After Base Camp, we will set up 3 High Camps before making it to the summit. Camp 1 will be at 5700m. Similarly, Camp 2 will be at 5900m and final Camp 3 will be at 6300m.

Why climb with us:

For over 30 yrs the people who helm this venture has been successfully organizing high altitude Expeditions ensuring safety first and service paramount. The success of expedition depends largely on carefully planned itinerary and best logistics and these are what we offer. We are committed in maintaining the expedition safe and success with quality of service. Our emphasis is always on maintaining the small group so that it will be easy to coordinate and cooperate with each other. You will be guided by highly professional mountain guides and they are one of the best in this field.

We are dedicated for providing highest professionalism throughout the expedition by taking utmost care of all the logistics needed for our Ama Dablam Expedition

Outline Itinerary

  • Day 01 : Arrival in Kathmandu [1,350m/4,430ft]
  • Day 02 : In Kathmandu for official formalities and last minute preparation [1,350m/4,430ft]
  • Day 03 : Fly to Lukla and trek to Phakding [2,600m/8,531ft]
  • Day 04 : Trek to Namche Bazar [3,450m/11,319ft]
  • Day 05 : Rest and Acclimatization day [3,450m/11,319ft]
  • Day 06 : Trek to Tengboche [3,876m/12,717ft]
  • Day 07 : Trek to Pangboche [3,985m/13,075ft]
  • Day 08 : Trek to Ama Dablam Base Camp [4,420m/14,502ft]
  • Day 09-10 : Rest and Get organized/ Puja Ceremony
  • Day 11-18 : Acclimatization and rotation of higher camps
  • Day 19-23 : Summit climb and back to base camp
  • Day 24-25 : Contingencies Day
  • Day 26 : Trek to Pangboche [3,985m/13,075ft]
  • Day 27 : Trek to Namche Bazar [3,450m/11,319ft]
  • Day 28 : Trek to Lukla [2,800m/9187ft]
  • Day 29 : Fly back to Kathmandu [1,350m/4,430ft]
  • Day 30 : Free day in Kathmandu [1,350m/4,430ft]
  • Day 31 : International departure

Important Note: Your safety is of imperative concern while traveling with Highland Expeditions. Please take care to note that your leader/guide has the authority to amend or cancel any part of the itinerary if it is deemed necessary due to your safety concerns. Every effort will be made to keep to the above itinerary; however, since this adventure entails travelling in remote mountainous regions, we cannot guarantee that we will not deviate from it. Weather or health condition of a group member, unexpected natural disasters, etc., can all contribute to changes in the itinerary. Your leader/guide will try to ensure that the trip runs according to plan, but please be prepared to be flexible if required

Map & Itinerary
  • Day 01 - Arrival in Kathmandu [1,350m/4,430ft]

    Arrival at Tribhuvan International Airport, Nepal. Upon completing the visa formalities and collecting your luggages in the airport, kindly proceed to the exit of the arrival hall. Your trip leader will await you just outside the arrival hall and will escort you to your hotel in Kathmandu. Please look out for a placard of Highland Expeditions.
    • Meal : None
    • Accommodation : Hotel
    • Trekking Hours : 0
  • Day 02 - In Kathmandu for official formalities and last minute preparation [1,350m/4,430ft]

    In Kathmandu for final preparation of Climb. Meet other team members, complete official and government formalities, final gear check and load. Upon your interest, an optional Kathmandu sightseeing can be arranged on these days. We will have a trip orientation and your trip leader will give you a brief about your climb before we head to our journey.
    • Meal : (B)
    • Accommodation : Hotel
    • Trekking Hours : 0
  • Day 03 - Fly to Lukla and trek to Phakding [2,600m/8,531ft]

    After an early morning b/fast, we take the mountain flight from Kathmandu to Lukla on STOL aircraft. Flight time is about 35 minutes to the airstrip built by Sir Edmund Hillary and the Sherpas in the mid-1960s. We begin the trek by descending towards the Dudh Kosi River, where we join the main trail to Namche Bazaar, just above Chaurikharka at 2713m. The walking is easy and after passing through the small village of Ghat at 2550m, it’s a short walk to Phakding where we’ll stay overnight.
    • Meal : (B, L, D)
    • Accommodation : Teahouse/Lodge
    • Trekking Hours : 3-4 hrs
  • Day 04 - Trek to Namche Bazar [3,450m/11,319ft]

    We will continue our journey along Dudhkoshi River which will take us through pine forest. After crossing suspension bridges at several points and passing through small settlements of Zapute, Toktok, Benkar and Chumoa, we will reach Monjo. This is known as the gateway to the Sagarmatha National Park. After completing all the necessary national park formalities, we will enter Sagarmatha National Park. Lowering down from the park, we will arrive at river. Crossing another suspension bridge, we will proceed towards high Hillary Bridge located at the foot of the hill. Crossing this bridge, we will climb uphill to the Namche Bazaar. We can get view of Thamserku Mountain. If weather is clear, we can also have first view of Mt. Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse and Kusum Khangru mountains.
    • Meal : (B, L, D)
    • Accommodation : Teahouse/Lodge
    • Trekking Hours : 6-7 hrs
  • Day 05 - Rest and Acclimatization day [3,450m/11,319ft]

    Namche Bazaar is regarded as gateway to the high Himalayas. It is also the main trading center and a capital of Sherpa land. Rest is recommended in Namche for acclimatization purpose. Short hike will be arranged to the ancient Sherpa village of Thame to observe the rich Sherpa culture. We can also visit nearby Khumjung, Khunde or Khongde villages. Shopping in marketplace of Namche is another fine idea. National Park Head office, Museum and monasteries are other places of interest. The area is clustered with cafes, shops, bakeries and restaurants. The place supports facilities of post office, hospital, government health post. Internet access is also available at Namche so that you can contact your near ones.
    • Meal : (B, L, D)
    • Accommodation : Teahouse/Lodge
    • Trekking Hours : 4-5 hrs
  • Day 06 - Trek to Tengboche [3,876m/12,717ft]

    Existing at 3876m is the culturally and religiously profound village of Tengboche which is regarded as the cultural center of Khumbu. Early in the morning, we will visit local monastery in Tengboche where we will observe Buddhist ceremonies and rituals that are carried out by local monks. Monastery in Tengboche is in fact the largest monastery in Khumbu region. Tengboche offers enchanting views of Himalayan panorama. We can see Thamserku and Kangtega peaks standing to the south while Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse and Ama Dablam rise to the north. We will also get close-up views of Kwangde and Tawache peaks.
    • Meal : (B, L ,D)
    • Accommodation : Teahouse/Lodge
    • Trekking Hours : 4-5 hrs
  • Day 07 - Trek to Pangboche [3,985m/13,075ft]

    After an early morning visit to Tengboche gompa, we will head towards Pangboche. Acclimatization-wise, it is recommended to stay at Pangboche for the day. Pangboche is the highest permanently inhabited village. Pangboche holds the oldest gompa in Khumbu region that was built in 1667. We will explore the cultural richness of Pangboche. We can get epic view of Amadablam from most of the point.
    • Meal : (B, L, D)
    • Accommodation : Teahouse/Lodge
    • Trekking Hours : 4-5 hrs
  • Day 08 - Trek to Ama Dablam Base Camp [4,420m/14,502ft]

    Leaving Pangboche, we will head towards Amadablam Base Camp by following the scenic trail that stretches down to the river and take sharp climb to Kharka. The trail offers close-up views of Amadablam, Lhotse, Lobuche, Pumori, Cholatse, Kusum Kangaru, Thamserku, Amphu Gyabjen and others. As we move ahead, view of Amadablam Mountain becomes more vivid. Once we reach the base camp of Amadablam, we can get views of many stunning peaks and hanging glaciers. We will meet our other crew at Base Camp.
    • Meal : (B, L, D)
    • Accommodation : Fully tented camping
    • Trekking Hours : 4-5 hrs
  • Day 09-10 - Rest and Get organized/ Puja Ceremony

    Taking rest helps us to mentally and physically prepare ourselves for the challenges proposed by Amadablam Mountain. Puja Ceremony will be organized according to the Sherpa ritual to ask for blessings for the successful ascend of Amadablam.
    • Meal : (B, L, D)
    • Accommodation : Fully tented camping
  • Day 11-18 - Acclimatization and rotation of higher camps

    Before making final climb to the summit, we will practice climbing to Camp 2 (5900m) and descending to Base Camp for making our body well acclimatized to the high altitude. On first rotation, we will carry small load to Camp 1 (5700m) and then return to our Base Camp. On our next rotation, we will sleep at Camp 1 and early in the morning of next day, we will climb to Camp 2. In a final rotation, those feeling comfortable will sleep at Camp 2 while other climbers will descend to lower camps for rejuvenation before making the final attempt for the summit.
    • Meal : (B, L, D)
    • Accommodation : Fully tented camping
  • Day 19-23 - Summit climb and back to base camp

    We will target to make our final ascend to the summit on these days after completing our rotation. Since we have to adjust according to the situations like weather conditions and other factors, it is not possible to have fixed itinerary for these days. Base Camp to Camp 1 (5,705m/18,718ft): From the Base Camp, we will move through grassy ridges and head east to a broad saddle from where we will get view of Mingbo La pass. Heading north through boulders to the ridge, we will reach at an altitude of 5705 m where we will set our Camp I. Camp 1 to Camp 2 (5,900m/19,357ft): Leaving Camp 1, we will follow the snowy trail to the top of ridge. We need to make several small snow steps. We will head east and after walking through the ground, we will reach to the top of ridge that is tapered at the point. We will proceed to the crest of the ridge and move further to the west. Later, we will follow the easy trail on the eastern face to reach to the top of yellow tower. After bit difficult climb of the section, we will reach Camp 2. Camp 2 to Camp 2.7 (6,300m/20,770ft): Moving east, we will proceed to the grey tower. Cautious climb from the tower will take us to amphitheater. Climbing further to gully, we will ascend to the snow slope and proceed to mushroom ridge from where we will head to Camp 2.7 (6300m). Camp 2.7 to Summit (6,812m/22,350ft): Leaving Camp, we will walk through crevasse in the upper face and climb ice slope to the right of Dablam. We will head west and arrive at the small snowfield located below Burgschrund. Crossing it, we will reach to the top of the highest hanging glacier. Final trail through an ice crest will take us to the summit. After spending some time in the summit, we will descend to Base Camp.
    • Meal : (B, L, D)
    • Accommodation : Fully tented camping
  • Day 24-25 - Contingencies Day

    These contingency days will help us to make sure that our schedule will go on smoothly without interruption even if there occur complications during our Expedition
  • Day 26 - Trek to Pangboche [3,985m/13,075ft]

    After our successful expedition we leave the Base Camp and retrace our step to Pangboche.We can rejoice the views of Everest, Ama Dablam, Thamserku, Kangtaiga and Kongde ridges and Imja Tse River from Pangboche village.
    • Meal : (B, L, D)
    • Accommodation : Teahouse/lodge
    • Trekking Hours : 3-4 hrs
  • Day 27 - Trek to Namche Bazar [3,450m/11,319ft]

    We will follow the return trail along Imja River that takes us through the forest of birch and spruce to Tengboche village. After brief stop in Tengboche, we will follow the trail through forest of blooming rhododendron to the bridge. We will cross the bridge over Dudh Koshi River and move through Dudh Koshi gorge and pine forest to Sansa village and finally to Namche Bazar.
    • Meal : (B, L, D)
    • Accommodation : Teahouse/lodge
  • Day 28 - Trek to Lukla [2,800m/9187ft]

    Our last day of trek following the Dudh Kosi River down to Lukla. It’s only a gradual walk along the Dudhkhosi river after our steep descent from Namche. We’ll have lunch on our way and we make the final climb up to the airstrip at Lukla. Rest of the day is free and you can relax under the warm sun & reflect on the emotional experiences we had during our climb. This is our final day on these fantastic mountains. Later we celebrate our successful completion of climb with our Sherpa guides and porters who we’ve got to know so well & are now good friends.
    • Meal : (B, L, D)
    • Accommodation : Teahouse/lodge
    • Trekking Hours : 5-6 hrs
  • Day 29 - Fly back to Kathmandu [1,350m/4,430ft]

    We get up early in the morning, enjoy our b/fast & get ready for the arrival of our aircraft for the flight back to Katmandu. On our touchdown at the Kathmandu airport, we will be met by our office reps and transferred to your hotel. Rest of your day is free to do your own things.
    • Meal : (B)
    • Accommodation : Hotel
    • Trekking Hours : 0
  • Day 30 - Free day in Kathmandu [1,350m/4,430ft]

    Free and easy day to spend, perhaps doing shopping or rest at hotel’s beautiful court-yard. At eventide, we will relish a farewell dinner to celebrate your successful completion of the ‘Ama Dablam Expedition.’ While enjoying our supper, we will also be entertained to a scintillating cultural dance performed by the local belles Please do not hesitate to let us know if you would like to extend your stay. Kindly email us for more details on extensions.
    • Meal : (B)
    • Accommodation : Hotel
    • Trekking Hours : 0
  • Day 31 - International departure

    Thank you for joining us on this expedition and it has been a pleasure getting to know you during this time. We hope this venture has enriched your experience with happy memories. Keep in touch and hope to hear from you soon. Bon voyage for a safe and pleasant trip home.
    • Meal : (B)
    • Accommodation : None
    • Trekking Hours :
Dates & Price

Given below are the fixed departure dates for this trip. If the dates don’t match with your schedule, then kindly let us know and we will arrange a private trip customizing the departure dates suitable for you. The cost below is per person on group joining basis excluding the international flights. Group discount is available for booking of two or more than two persons. Kindly contact us if you have a bigger group for the discount.

Trip Start Date Trip End Date Price
20 Oct, 2017 19 Nov, 2017 USD 6,000 Available BOOK NOW
05 Nov, 2017 05 Dec, 2017 USD 6,000 Limited Availability BOOK NOW
25 Oct, 2018 24 Nov, 2018 USD 6,000 Available BOOK NOW
Trip Info
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Cost Inclusion

  • 1:1 Sherpa to climber ratio and 1:4 leader to client ratio to assist during climb
  • Nepalese government royalty fees for Ama Dablam.
  • All expedition organizational requirements
  • Service of base camp manager and climbing sirdars
  • Satellite communication system at base camp but nominal charge for use
  • Radio set for communication between camps
  • Meals at base camp and higher camps during expedition
  • Personal tents at BC, high tents, kitchen tents, dining tents, shower tents, toilet tents, store tents, cooking utensils and more for your comfort.
  • 6 nights accommodation at Kathmandu Guest House with breakfast on deluxe room
  • Meals (B,L,D) and accommodation during trek upto BC and back to Lukla after expedition
  • Ktm-Lukla-Ktm airfare
  • Staffs wages, allowances with their insurance
  • Common climbing equipment
  • Porterage of climbing equipment up to base camp and back to Lukla after expedition
  • Liaison officer daily wages and fees
  • Applicable national park fees and local taxes
  • 2 waterproof duffel bags

Cost Exclusion

  • International airfare
  • Meals in Kathmandu
  • Custom for bringing any expedition goods
  • Nepal entry visa fees
  • Personal clothing and equipment
  • Insurance (Mandatory)
  • Summit bonus
  • Gratuities for staff
  • Personal expenses

Meals

Meals are included in our expedition and are served in Lodges located along the trek to base camp and to Lukla after the expedition. We consider delicious and nutritious food to be a key component to the overall success of our expeditions. We charter the food in by flight and take the utmost care in quality preparation. Our High Altitude Chef will be with us for all meals at Base Camp and Camp 2. You could bring things which you enjoy eating - chocolates, power bars, dry fruits, candies, other snacks etc.

Accommodation

In Kathmandu we stay at Kathmandu Guest House, a well-known hotel. Centrally located in Thamel, the hotel also boasts of a beautiful garden where you can relax and enjoy the greenery.  During the trekking upto base camp we stay at teahouses and lodges as there are many clean and friendly Lodges along the trail. Rooms are basic, normally just a bed with a pillow and blankets. Our base camp is well appointed, providing each climber a comfortable environment. There will be a warm dining room, personal tent for each individual, kitchen tent, shower and etc and more for your comfort.

Group size

Our emphasis is always on maintaining the small group so that it will be easy to coordinate and cooperate with each other especially in high altitude expeditions. You will get to know your Sherpa guide and team member personally. Being a small group is always efficient on bigger mountain. Our group size is small and your Sherpa guides will not only assist you at the summit push but will also assist you in the rotation of higher camps.

Travel Insurance

It’s mandatory and highly recommended to get  insurance before embarking on any adventurous activities like high altitude expeditions. We advise all our clients to get a insurance that covers up emergency helicopter evacuation that may be needed in case of the occurrence of AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness) in high altitudes where there are no other means of transportation available. Medical expenses, Baggage lost, Delays and Cancellation, Death & Repatriation are also another important factor to include when purchasing your Insurance. It is advisable to review carefully the insurance and its coverage before making the final decision.

Rescue/Evacuations

In case of a serious sickness or a casualty; we undertake to do everything possible to transfer you to the nearest hospital.  Since you are entirely liable for all the expenses incurred in evacuation, kindly ensure that all expenses are fully covered by your insurance before assigning it or must be prepared to pay on your own after getting back to Kathmandu.

Equipment Checklist

The gear listed below are required for the expedition. We encourage you to get all equipment listed below and kindly ensure you check and try every equipment . You can also buy or hire the same in Kathmandu as they are available in the many trekking shops from branded to local manufacturers in Kathmandu.

Head:

  • Warm Hat and Bandana/Scarf
  • Baseball cap
  • Thermal Balaclava
  • Sunglasses with UV protection
  • Ski goggles (Anti fog and good ventilation)
  • Headlight X 2 with spare batteries
  • Climbing helmet

Upper Body:

  • Long-sleeved shirts
  • T-Shirts
  • Base layers
  • Warm Jackets/Sweater/Pullover
  • Waterproof jackets
  • Down Jacket with hood (800m fill)
  • Primaloft or light down jacket
  • Down Suit (Light weight, comfortable fit and 800m fill)

Legs:

  • Thermal
  • Inner wears / Base layers
  • Under garments
  • Waterproof trousers
  • Trekking trousers
  • Down or Primaloft pants

Feet:

  • Warm socks (4 pair thin socks and 4 pair thick socks)
  • Trekking shoes (Preferably full to protect/support your ankle)
  • 8000m Mountaineering boots (Lightweight and comfortable size)
  • Camp Shoes
  • Gaiters
  • Down shoes

Hands

  • Gloves
  • Primaloft Mitten
  • Down Mitten

Climbing equipment

  • Backpack 30-35 liters (To carry your sunblock, water, camera, waterproof jackets and others that you may require while trekking)
  • Backpack 60-70 liters for climbing
  • A pair of trekking poles
  • Harness
  • Ascender/Jumar (Large handle)
  • Descender
  • Carabiners (4 screw gate and 4 snap gate)
  • Prussik cord X 2
  • Slings X 2
  • Ice Axe
  • Steel crampons
  • Inflatable sleeping mattress
  • Sleeping bag X 2 (One for base camp and one for higher camps)

Others:

  • Water bottle one (1) litre
  • Multi – tool knife
  • Pee bottle
  • Laundry bag to keep the dirty clothes
  • Large plastic bags to keep the clothes dry
  • Padlock
  • Binoculars
  • Sewing kit
  • Duct tape
  • Reading materials, note books and pens
  • Extra clothes to wear in Kathmandu when you come back from trek.
  • Camera with charger or spare batteries

Toiletries and hygiene

  • Quick drying towel
  • Small face towel
  • Toothbrush &Toothpaste
  • Deodorants, Soap and Shampoo (Smaller bottle)
  • Face and body moisturizer, Sun screen and lip balm
  • Hand sanitizer/Antiseptic wipes
  • Hygiene products
  • Basic first aid kit

Documents

  • Passport with visa and validity of 6 months after your trip completion
  • 4 copies of passport size photos for permits and official formalities
  • Travel Insurance (Please refer to the general information page for more detail about it)
  • Flight tickets
  • Credit cards in case of emergencies
  • Driving ID or any other ID in case of loss of your passport.

(Please carry the photo copy of all the documents along with you and leave a copy to next of kin)

Other Info

Your Sherpa Crew

Our Sherpa crews are critical to the success of your climbs that you do with us. We us professionally trained Sherpa guides & sirdars who are just not hikers & climbers on the mountains but have been trained to perform this task with a lot of common sense & guile.
Kunga Sherpa, Everest summitter and founder of Highland Expeditions, who has successfully guided and organized over 40 expeditions to 8000m as an expedition sirdar oversees our experienced Sherpa crew that will be with you on the climb.  We ensure that they are confident & experienced. Most of our guides were born in these parts & have relatives living on other parts of the regions where they were born in.

We know that locally born staffs are a vital cog in that wheel of sometimes dangerous adventure where anything can happen.

At Highland Expeditions, we always make sure that our mountain crews are highly motivated & never compromise.

Previous Experience Required:

High Altitude Expeditions like Ama Dablam requires previous mountaineering experience and it is expected that the climber has previous experience of climbing at least 6000m peak before attempting Ama Dablam.  A fierce determination and a burning desire to climb the mountain are the essential pre-requisites for joining this expedition. One needs to be familiar with walking in snow, rock and ice and must have good standard of fitness. You should be familiar with Rope skills, ice axe arrest and crampon skills, the use of ascenders (Jumar) and descenders, and how to use your particular harness

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