Ama Dablam Expedition 2022

Ama Dablam Expedition 2024

An ascent of iconic mountain in the Himalaya

  • Group Size:Min 2 - Max 12
  • Duration:30 Days
  • Max Altitude:6,812 m/20,283 ft
  • Accommodation:Teahouse/Camping
  • Activity:High Altitude Expeditions
  • Meal:Meals Included
  • Trip Grade:Strenuous
  • Start Point:Kathmandu, Nepal
  • End Point:Kathmandu, Nepal
Package difficulty Strenuous  

Climb Ama Dablam and Lobuche Peak in a single itinerary.

Trip Overview

Highlights

  • Technically challenging mountain in the Khumbu region
  • Climb Ama Dablam and Lobuche East
  • Fully supported expedition with the best Sherpa support
  • A true Alpinist's dream

Ama Dablam Expedition 2024 Overview

 Maximum Altitude:  6,812m/20,283ft
 Total Duration:  30 Days
 Coordinates:   27.8619° N, 86.8612° E
 Climbing Route:   South-West Ridge
 Grade:   Strenuous +
 Group Size:   Min 2 Max 12
 Activity:   Mountaineering and Climbing

Famously known as Mountaineer’s mountain, Ama Dablam is one of the technical mountains in the Khumbu region of the Himalayas, which stands tall at 6812m. The glacier lurking from the southwestern face gives an impression of a jewel dangling from the neck of a mountain which gave it the name of Ama Dablam (meaning Mother’s Jewel), this is a steep pyramid of ice with vertical walls and sharp, exposed ridges. Get the technical climbing experience of conquering this mountain sharply pointed. Ama Dablam summit allows panoramic views of eight-thousanders including Everest, Cho Oyu, Makalu and Lhotse.

Our Ama Dablam Expedition climbing route follows the standard route through the southwest ridge to the summit.

What makes our Ama Dablam Expedition unique?

Our Ama Dablam Expedition includes an ascent of Lobuche Peak (6119m/20,075ft) to minimise the rotation of higher camps on Ama Dablam. Trek to Everest base camp & Kalapathar, climb Lobuche East and then finally arrive at Ama Dablam base camp well acclimatized and fully prepared.

Instead of doing multiple rotations on higher camps on Ama Dablam, we will trek to Everest base camp, hike to Kalapathar and climb Lobuche East Peak before heading towards Ama Dablam. This approach/strategy has resulted in a higher success ratio on our previous Ama Dablam Expedition and we plan to follow this on our coming expeditions to Ama Dablam.

Our previous expeditions on Ama Dablam resulted in a higher success ratio for those who acclimatized on a different peak. Doing this allows the climber to be well-acclimatized, refresh their climbing skills on smaller peaks and be fully prepared when they arrive at the Amadablam base camp.

Our Ama Dablam base camp is well-appointed providing each climber with a comfortable stay. We will spend a few days at Amadablam Base Camp for rest, preparation, training and a puja ceremony.

Higher above the base camp, there are another three camps before reaching the summit. Camp 1 will be at (5,600m/18,368ft), Camp 2 will be at (5,900m/19,352ft) and Camp 3 will be at (6,300m/20,664ft).

During the summit push, we leave from base camp to camp 1, camp 1 to camp 2 and from camp 2 we leave for the summit at early dawn.

Day 01 – Climb to Camp 1 (5,600m/18,368ft) and O/N
Day 02 – Climb to Camp 2 (5,900m/19,352ft) and O/N
Day 03 – Summit push (6,812m/20,283ft) and return to Camp 2
Day 04 – Return to base camp

Please note that the above summit plan may differ during the expedition period as each climber adapts differently to an altitude.

Our Ama Dablam Expedition 2024 will consist of a small and cohesive team of climbers. We keep our group size small so that it will be efficient and effective.

Why climb Ama Dablam with us?

  • Guided by some of the best guides and the Sherpa team.
  • 1:1 Sherpa to climber ratio on summit day
  • Quality and safety of the expedition
  • Premier climbing experience on Ama Dablam
  • A small and cohesive team of climbers
  • A long history of high-altitude expeditions
Ama Dablam Expedition 2018

For over 30 yrs the people who helm this venture have been successfully organizing high-altitude Expeditions ensuring safety first and service paramount. The success of the expedition depends largely on a carefully planned itinerary and the best logistics and these are what we offer. We are committed to maintaining the expedition safe and successful with the quality of service. Our emphasis is always on maintaining the small group so that it will be easy to coordinate and cooperate with each other. You will be guided by highly professional mountain guides and they are some of the best in this field.

We are dedicated to providing the highest professionalism throughout the expedition by taking utmost care of all the logistics needed for our Ama Dablam Expedition

See our 30 years of history: Here

Personalised Expedition on Ama Dablam:

We would be glad to offer a personalized expedition on Ama Dablam should you have any specific requirements or preferences.

We understand that our Ama Dablam Expedition Program may not suit everyone in terms of their preferences, requirements and also duration. If you have any personal preferences or have any requirements that you think will help you reach the summit, then please reach out to us and we can discuss and tailor an expedition, especially for you.

Important Note: Your safety is of imperative concern while traveling with Highland Expeditions. Please take care to note that your leader/guide has the authority to amend or cancel any part of the itinerary if it is deemed necessary due to your safety concerns. Every effort will be made to keep to the above itinerary; however, since this adventure entails travelling in remote mountainous regions, we cannot guarantee that we will not deviate from it. Weather or health condition of a group member, unexpected natural disasters, etc., can all contribute to changes in the itinerary. Your leader/guide will try to ensure that the trip runs according to plan, but please be prepared to be flexible if required

Trip Itinerary

  • Day 01 - Arrival in Kathmandu [1,350m/4,430ft]

    Arrival at Tribhuvan International Airport, Nepal. Upon completing the visa formalities and collecting your luggages in the airport, kindly proceed to the exit of the arrival hall. Your trip leader will await you just outside the arrival hall and will escort you to your hotel in Kathmandu. Please look out for a placard of Highland Expeditions.

    • Meal: None
    • Accommodation: Hotel
    • Trekking Hours: 0
  • Day 02 - In Kathmandu for official formalities and last minute preparation [1,350m/4,430ft]

    In Kathmandu for final preparation of Climb. Meet other team members, complete official and government formalities, final gear check and load. Upon your interest, an optional Kathmandu sightseeing can be arranged on these days.
    We will have a trip orientation and your trip leader will give you a brief about your climb before we head to our journey.

    • Meal: (B)
    • Accommodation: Hotel
    • Trekking Hours: 0
  • Day 03 - Fly to Lukla and trek to Phakding [2,600m/8,531ft]

    After an early morning b/fast, we take the mountain flight from Kathmandu to Lukla on STOL aircraft. Flight time is about 35 minutes to the airstrip built by Sir Edmund Hillary and the Sherpas in the mid-1960s. We begin the trek by descending towards the Dudh Kosi River, where we join the main trail to Namche Bazaar, just above Chaurikharka at 2713m. The walking is easy and after passing through the small village of Ghat at 2550m, it’s a short walk to Phakding where we’ll stay overnight.

    • Meal: (B, L, D)
    • Accommodation: Teahouse/Lodge
    • Trekking Hours: 3-4 hrs
  • Day 04 - Trek to Namche Bazar [3,450m/11,319ft]

    We will continue our journey along Dudhkoshi River which will take us through pine forest. After crossing suspension bridges at several points and passing through small settlements of Zapute, Toktok, Benkar and Chumoa, we will reach Monjo. This is known as the gateway to the Sagarmatha National Park. After completing all the necessary national park formalities, we will enter Sagarmatha National Park. Lowering down from the park, we will arrive at river. Crossing another suspension bridge, we will proceed towards high Hillary Bridge located at the foot of the hill. Crossing this bridge, we will climb uphill to the Namche Bazaar. We can get view of Thamserku Mountain. If weather is clear, we can also have first view of Mt. Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse and Kusum Khangru mountains.

    • Meal: (B, L, D)
    • Accommodation: Teahouse/Lodge
    • Trekking Hours: 6-7 hrs
  • Day 05 - Rest and Acclimatization day [3,450m/11,319ft]

    Namche Bazaar is regarded as gateway to the high Himalayas. It is also the main trading center and a capital of Sherpa land. Rest is recommended in Namche for acclimatization purpose. Short hike will be arranged to the ancient Sherpa village of Thame to observe the rich Sherpa culture. We can also visit nearby Khumjung, Khunde or Khongde villages. Shopping in marketplace of Namche is another fine idea. National Park Head office, Museum and monasteries are other places of interest. The area is clustered with cafes, shops, bakeries and restaurants. The place supports facilities of post office, hospital, government health post. Internet access is also available at Namche so that you can contact your near ones.

    • Meal: (B, L, D)
    • Accommodation: Teahouse/Lodge
    • Trekking Hours: 4-5 hrs
  • Day 06 - Trek to Deboche [3720 m/12,205ft]

    Leaving Namche Bazaar, we will walk along the glacial water of the Dudh Koshi River. We will be greeted with views of Mt. Everest, Nuptse, Lhotse, Thamserku and Ama Dablam Mountains. Our journey continues through the colourful forest of blooming rhododendron to Sanasa. The region is rich in wildlife like musk deer and different colourful local birds. In Sanasa lies the junction point. One of the paths leads us to the Gokyo valley while the other one leads us to Everest Base Camp. We will take a sharp climb to Tengboche monastery which is the largest Gompa in the Khumbu region. The journey rewards us with close-up views of many surrounding mountains. We will visit the monastery and walk through a forest of birch and rhododendron to Deboche.

    • Meal: (B, L ,D)
    • Accommodation: Teahouse/Lodge
    • Trekking Hours: 6-7 hrs
  • Day 07 - Trek to Dingboche [4,412m/14,475ft]

    After breakfast, we will descend to Imja River. The trail takes us uphill to Pangboche (3860m) through the lush forest. We will visit the Pangboche Monastery. The village is also decorated with Chorten and Mani walls. The trail allows us access to Imja Valley. We will take a steep climb to Pheriche and continue further to Lobuche River. The final steepest climb of the day will take us to Dingboche. Agriculture is the chief occupation of locals in Dingboche. We can see fields enclosed by stonewalls in Dingboche. Buckwheat, potatoes and barley are the major crops.

    • Meal: (B, L, D)
    • Accommodation: Teahouse/Lodge
    • Trekking Hours: 5-6 hrs
  • Day 08 - Rest and Acclimatization day [4,412m/14,475ft]

    Today we will hike up to Nagarstang peak for acclimatization. Nagarstang peak sits around 5000m so doing this will greatly benefit our acclimatization process.
    We will spend the rest of the day resting and exploring the Dingboche valley.

    • Meal: (B,L,D)
    • Accommodation: Teahouse/Lodge
    • Trekking Hours: 3-4 hrs
  • Day 09 - Trek to Lobuche [4,910m/16,109ft]

    From Dingboche, we will retrace our route to Pheriche and begin a moderate walk to Dugla. Walking through the steep moraine of Khumbu glacier, we will head towards Chupki Lhara which is festooned with prayer flags. It is also known as the memorial site for deceased climbers. The trail stretches through the Khumbu glacier moraine to Lobuche. On the way, we can rejoice in the close-up views of Pumori, Khumbutse and other peaks and mountains.

    • Meal: (B,L,D)
    • Accommodation: Teahouse/Lodge
    • Trekking Hours: 6-7 hrs
  • Day 10 - Trek to E.B.C [5,364m/17,559ft] and retrace back to Gorekshep [5,140m/16,864ft]

    A real early start is required to reach the Everest Base Camp. It takes several hours as the trail weaves its way through ice pinnacles and past the crevasses of the Khumbu Glacier. After a brief lunch and rest, we take the trail to Everest Base Camp through the once-vast Gorak Shep Lake. Only upon reaching the Everest Base Camp do we really appreciate the Everest climbers who brave the risky route through the Khumbu icefall. Mountaineer's tents stand out in bright colours against the monotony of grey surroundings (especially in the spring). Nuptse, Khumbuste and Pumori are the mountains we can view from the base camp. We return to Gorakshep for a restful night.

    • Meal: (B,L,D)
    • Accommodation: Teahouse/Lodge
    • Trekking Hours: 8-9 hrs
  • Day 11 - Hike up to Kalapattar [5,545m/18,193ft] and retrace back to Lobuche [4,910m/16,109ft]

    Be prepared to tackle thin air at this high altitude. We will leave our camp in Gorakshep pretty early in the morning as our target will be to get a sunrise view over Everest from Kalapattar. The route offers us views of Lingtren, Khumbutse, and Changtse peaks. Once we arrive at Kalapattar, we will get unobstructed views of Mount Everest. After spending a memorable time at Kalapattar and capturing the memories in photographs, we will return to Lobuche.

    • Meal: (B,L,D)
    • Accommodation: Teahouse/Lodge
    • Trekking Hours: 7-8 hrs
  • Day 12 - Move to High Camp [5,250m/17,224ft] and do climbing training

    Leaving Lobuche village, we will move along the rocky moraine path towards Lobuche High Camp.

    From Lobuche village, it takes 3 hrs to get to the Lobuche High Camp which is situated at 5,250m/17,224ft. After a gradual climb for an hour, we ascend to a steep rocky section for nearly an hour. We will climb through the rocky terrain to Lobuche High Camp.
    Once we reach High Camp, we will take lunch and rest for a while before doing the climbing training

    Dinner will be served early tonight as we prepare to leave at midnight the next day for our summit push.

    • Meal: (B,L,D)
    • Accommodation: Camp
    • Trekking Hours: 4-5 hrs
  • Day 13 - Summit Lobuche Peak [6,119m/20,075ft] and descend to Thugla

    We will wake up quite early this day as we aim to reach the summit before 10 am. We head out to the summit during predawn at around 2 am. The exact time of departure from the high camp will be suggested as per your walking pace. From the high camp to the summit it's about 7-8 hrs of a climb and descent to the high camp will take around 4 hrs.

    The first few hours of a climb don't involve the use of crampons and the terrain mostly consists of snow and rock. Fixed ropes are usually placed along all the sections of the climb starting from the high camp. After almost 3 hrs, we get to the crampon point of Lobuche Peak, which is just at the base of a 60-degree vertical climb on a fixed rope. From here, the climb begins somewhat technical with climbing on mixed conditions of rock, ice and snow.

    After another 3 hrs of mixed climbing on a fixed rope on an average 45-degree incline we get to the summit of Lobuche East (6119m/20,075ft).

    The summit allows enticing views of Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, Cholatse, Ama Dablam, Pumori and other mountains in the Everest region. After spending some quality time at the summit, we will lower down to Lobuche High Camp for lunch and then towards Thugla

    • Meal: (B,L,D)
    • Accommodation: Teahouse/Lodge
    • Trekking Hours: 12-14 hrs
  • Day 14 - Trek to Pangboche [3,985m/13,075ft]

    We will retrace the route through the wide valley of the Khumbu River and walk past pretty tiny Sherpa settlements of Orsho and Shomare to Pangboche. Pangboche is popular for its oldest monastery in the Khumbu region. We can rejoice in the views of Everest, Ama Dablam, Thamserku, Kangtaiga and Kongde ridges and Imja Tse River from Pangboche village.

    • Meal: (B,L,D)
    • Accommodation: Teahouse/Lodge
    • Trekking Hours: 3-4 hrs
  • Day 15 - Trek to Ama Dablam Base Camp [4,420m/14,502ft]

    Leaving Pangboche, we will head towards Amadablam Base Camp by following the scenic trail that stretches down to the river and take sharp climb to Kharka. The trail offers close-up views of Amadablam, Lhotse, Lobuche, Pumori, Cholatse, Kusum Kangaru, Thamserku, Amphu Gyabjen and others. As we move ahead, view of Amadablam Mountain becomes more vivid. Once we reach the base camp of Amadablam, we can get views of many stunning peaks and hanging glaciers. We will meet our other crew at Base Camp.

    • Meal: (B, L, D)
    • Accommodation: Fully tented camping
    • Trekking Hours: 3-4 hrs
  • Day 16-17 - Rest, Puja Ceremony & Climbing Clinic

    Get rested and organized.

    The puja Ceremony will be organized according to the Sherpa ritual to ask for blessings for the successful ascend of Amadablam.

    We will also do an extensive climbing clinic around base camp before leaving for the summit push.

    • Meal: (B, L, D)
    • Accommodation: Fully tented camping
  • Day 18-21 - Summit push and back to base camp

    We will target to make our final ascent to the summit on these days after completing our rotation. Since we have to adjust according to the situations like weather conditions and other factors, it is not possible to have a fixed itinerary for these days.

    Base Camp to Camp 1 (5,705m/18,718ft):
    From the Base Camp, we will move through grassy ridges and head east to a broad saddle from where we will get a view of Mingbo La pass. Heading north through boulders to the ridge, we will reach an altitude of 5705 m where we will set our Camp I.

    Camp 1 to Camp 2 (5,900m/19,357ft):
    Leaving Camp 1, we will follow the snowy trail to the top of the ridge. We need to make several small snow steps. We will head east and after walking through the ground, we will reach the top of the ridge that is tapered at the point. We will proceed to the crest of the ridge and move further to the west. Later, we will follow the easy trail on the eastern face to reach the top of the yellow tower. After a bit of a difficult climb of the section, we will reach Camp 2.

    Camp 2 to Camp 3 (6,300m/20,770ft):
    Moving east, we will proceed to the grey tower. A cautious climb from the tower will take us to an amphitheatre. Climbing further to the gully, we will ascend to the snow slope and proceed to the mushroom ridge from where we will head to Camp 2.7 (6300m).

    Camp 3 to Summit (6,812m/22,350ft):
    Leaving Camp, we will walk through a crevasse in the upper face and climb the ice slope to the right of Dablam. We will head west and arrive at the small snowfield located below Bergschrund. Crossing it, we will reach the top of the highest-hanging glacier. A final trail through an ice crest will take us to the summit. After spending some time at the summit, we will descend to Base Camp.

    • Meal: (B, L, D)
    • Accommodation: Camp
  • Day 22-24 - Contingencies Day

    These contingency days will help us to make sure that our schedule will go on smoothly without interruption even if there occur complications during our Expedition

    • Meal: (B,L,D)
    • Accommodation: Camp
  • Day 25 - Trek to Pangboche [3,985m/13,075ft]

    After our successful expedition, we leave the Base Camp and retrace our steps to Pangboche. We can rejoice in the views of Everest, Ama Dablam, Thamserku, Kangtaiga and Kongde ridges and Imja Tse River from Pangboche village.

    • Meal: (B, L, D)
    • Accommodation: Teahouse/lodge
    • Trekking Hours: 3-4 hrs
  • Day 26 - Trek to Namche Bazar [3,450m/11,319ft]

    We will follow the return trail along Imja River that takes us through the forest of birch and spruce to Tengboche village. After brief stop in Tengboche, we will follow the trail through forest of blooming rhododendron to the bridge. We will cross the bridge over Dudh Koshi River and move through Dudh Koshi gorge and pine forest to Sansa village and finally to Namche Bazar.

    • Meal: (B, L, D)
    • Accommodation: Teahouse/lodge
  • Day 27 - Trek to Lukla [2,800m/9187ft]

    Our last day of trek following the Dudh Kosi River down to Lukla. It’s only a gradual walk along the Dudhkhosi river after our steep descent from Namche. We’ll have lunch on our way and we make the final climb up to the airstrip at Lukla. Rest of the day is free and you can relax under the warm sun & reflect on the emotional experiences we had during our climb. This is our final day on these fantastic mountains. Later we celebrate our successful completion of climb with our Sherpa guides and porters who we’ve got to know so well & are now good friends.

    • Meal: (B, L, D)
    • Accommodation: Teahouse/lodge
    • Trekking Hours: 5-6 hrs
  • Day 28 - Fly back to Kathmandu [1,350m/4,430ft]

    We get up early in the morning, enjoy our b/fast and get ready for the arrival of our aircraft for the flight back to Katmandu. On our touchdown at the Kathmandu airport, we will be met by our office reps and transferred to your hotel. The rest of your day is free to do your own things.

    • Meal: (B)
    • Accommodation: Hotel
    • Trekking Hours: 0
  • Day 29 - In Kathmandu [1,350m/4,430ft]

    Free day at Kathmandu. This also serves as a contingency day if there's any delay with the Lukla flights.

    • Meal: (B)
    • Accommodation: Hotel
  • Day 30 - International departure

    Thank you for joining us on this expedition and it has been a pleasure getting to know you during this time. We hope this venture has enriched your experience with happy memories. Keep in touch and hope to hear from you soon. Bon voyage for a safe and pleasant trip home.

    • Meal: (B)
    • Accommodation: None

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Dates & Price

Our trips are available on both fixed departure and private group basis.

If you are looking for a group to join this trip please click the Fixed Departures tab for more information on departure dates, availability and price. All our fixed departures are guaranteed to run. Or, if you would like to do this trip alone, or with your friends, families & colleagues in a private group style, please fill out the contact form in Private Group tab and send us your message. We will organize a private trip for you at your preferred dates catering any request you may have.

Check Available Dates

Trip Start Date
Trip End Date
Price
Status

Oct, 2024

Trip Start Date20 Oct, 2024
Trip End Date18 Nov, 2024
PriceUSD 6,999
Status Available

Cost Inclusion

  • 1:1 sherpa guide to climber ratio on Ama Dablam
  • 1:3 sherpa guide to client ratio on Lobuche East Peak
  • Peak Permit and Royalty fees for Ama Dablam and Lobuche
  • All expedition organizational requirements
  • Rope Fixing Fee
  • All meals (B,L,D) during the trekking period
  • Twin-sharing accommodation at the teahouses/lodges during the trekking period
  • Personal tents at BC, kitchen tents, dining tents, shower tents, toilet tents, store tents, cooking utensils and more for your comfort.
  • Freshly prepared meals at base camp by our expedition cook
  • Meals and tents at higher camps during the expedition period
  • 4 nights accommodation at Kathmandu Guest House with breakfast
  • Satellite communication system at base camp but nominal charge for personal use
  • Radio set for communication between camps
  • Ktm-Lukla-Ktm internal airfare w
  • Staffs wages, allowances with their insurance
  • Common climbing equipment
  • Porterage of climbing equipment up to base camp and back to Lukla after the expedition
  • Liaison officer's daily wages and fees
  • Applicable national park fees and local taxes
  • 2 waterproof duffel bags
  • Airport pickup and transfers

Cost Exclusion

  • International airfare
  • Meals in Kathmandu
  • Custom for bringing any expedition goods
  • Nepal entry visa fees
  • Personal clothing and equipment
  • Insurance (Mandatory)
  • Summit bonus (USD 500)
  • Tips for base camp staff (USD 200)
  • Personal expenses

Essential Information

Difficulty

Ama Dablam is a technical mountain in the Khumbu region of Nepal consisting of mixed terrains (Rock/Ice/Snow) with exposed ridge climbing.  It requires a high level of fitness and previous experience of at least moderate technical climb. Since most of the section on Ama Dablam is fixed rope climb, you need to be very comfortable with jumaring and abseiling on fixed ropes. The route between Camp 1 and Camp 3 consists of a technical climb with some near-vertical ice and rock. Climbers should expect multiple days of climbing at high altitude in extreme conditions.

The route consists of a pyramid of ice with vertical walls and sharp, exposed ridges. Get the technical climbing experience of conquering this mountain sharply pointed.

Prerequisite

Climbers are required to have a good climbing resume and moderate skills on a technical climb. You need to have solid rock-climbing and cramponing skills and be able to climb and rappel with a pack on. Since you will be spending most of the time in extreme conditions a previous experience of climbing a 6000m peak is required. Climbers are required to be in excellent fitness level and must have the ability to perform at a high level for a longer duration at high altitudes.

A fierce determination and a burning desire to climb the mountain are the essential prerequisites for joining this category expedition. One needs to be familiar with walking in snow, rock and ice carrying your pack on. You should be familiar with Rope skills, ice axe arrest and crampon skills, the use of ascenders (Jumar) and descenders, and how to use your particular harness.

Training well ahead in advance, at least 6 months prior to the expedition start date is recommended. Doing cross-fit, uphill walking carrying a heavy backpack on exposed terrain and other physical activities will be greatly beneficial to improve your performance. Consult with your doctor about your physical level and have a balanced program of training, diet and rest. Lastly, it's all mind over the body so mental toughness is the key to having a successful climbing experience.

Sherpa Guides

Our Sherpa crews are critical to the success of the climbs that you do with us. We, us professionally trained Sherpa guides & sirdars who are just not hikers & climbers on the mountains but have been trained to perform this task with a lot of common sense & guile.
Kunga Sherpa, Everest summiteer and founder of Highland Expeditions, has successfully guided and organized over 40 expeditions to 8000m as an expedition sirdar oversees our experienced Sherpa crew that will be with you on the climb.  We ensure that they are confident & experienced. Most of our guides were born in these parts & have relatives living in other parts of the regions where they were born in.

We know that locally born staffs are a vital cog in that wheel of sometimes dangerous adventure where anything can happen.

At Highland Expeditions, we always make sure that our mountain crews are highly motivated & never compromise. We provide a 1:1 sherpa guide to client ratio on the summit day. Each of our Sherpa guides has tons of experience in climbing high altitude peaks.

Meals

We consider delicious and nutritious food to be a key component to the overall success of our expeditions. We charter the food in by flight and take the utmost care in quality and hygienic preparation. Our High Altitude Chef will be with us for all meals at Base Camp. During the trek, your meals will be served at the teahouse/lodge you will stay. And in Kathmandu, only breakfast will be provided to give you the maximum flexibility in deciding where what and with whom to eat for lunch and dinner.

If you have any special dietary requirements please let us know in advance and we will be sure to cater to your needs.

Accommodation

We provide each climber with an individual tent at the base camp during an entire expedition. Each tent will have spacious space, comfortable mattresses, carpeted floor and more for your comfort. Higher above from base camp, a high-quality extreme weather tent will be provided for every 2 climbers.

We do not emphasise more on luxurious things as to unnecessarily increase the cost and human effort but we make sure that you get a good rest.

Approach

We will follow the standard route through the southwest ridge to the summit. This route is the safest and is free from the risk of avalanches. We need to cross 40-45 degree slopes. A careful strategy is important for a successful climb. We will spend a few days at Amadablam Base Camp for proper acclimatization. Rotation of High Camps is effective before making the final attempt at the summit. Hence, we will practice climbing to Camp 2 (5900m) and descending to Lower Camps for making our bodies well acclimatized to the high altitude. On the first rotation, we will carry a small load to Camp 1 (5700m) and then return to our Base Camp. On our next rotation, we will sleep at Camp 1 and early in the morning of the next day, we will climb to Camp 2. In a final rotation, those feeling comfortable will sleep at Camp 2 while other climbers will descend to lower camps for rejuvenation before making the final attempt for the summit.

After Base Camp, we will set up 3 High Camps before making it to the summit. Camp 1 will be at 5700m. Similarly, Camp 2 will be at 5900m and final Camp 3 will be at 6300m.

Group size

Our emphasis is always on maintaining the small group so that it will be easy to coordinate and cooperate with each other. Our group size is small and we only take up to 10 pax in one group. If you opt to join our ‘fixed departure trip’, you are likely to be joining people from different countries of any age group except minors. The size of the group varies, the minimum no of persons required to operate the trip is 1 and the maximum is 10 people on each group.

Insurance

It’s mandatory and highly recommended to get rescue insurance before embarking on any adventurous trips in Nepal. We advise all our clients to get the insurance that covers up emergency helicopter evacuation that may be needed in case of the occurrence of AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness) or any other reasons in high altitudes where there are no other means of transportation available. It is advisable to review carefully the insurance and its coverages before making the final decision. Carry proof of your insurance with you on the holiday and leave a copy next to your kin. You must ensure that your insurance provides an adequate level of protection and covers you for the activities involved.

More information: Travel Insurance

Communications

Our Ama Dablam Expedition group will be equipped with a satellite phone for emergency purpose throughout the expedition duration. The cell phone network is available during the trekking section and at base camp, the service is not reliable and may fluctuate depending on weather conditions. In case you need to make a personal call, you can use the sat phone at $3 per minute.

Weather

The best season for the Amadablam expedition is the autumn season (from October to the end of November). The Spring season also witnesses few climbing teams but due to the presence of blue ice and unstable weather and terrain, the summit chances are very low.

Other Information

Other information such as (Insurance, Arrival Instructions, Visa and Passport etc) required for the trip will be provided after you have signed up for the expedition. Please feel free to get in touch with us if you require more information about the trip.

Equipment list for Ama Dablam Expedition 2024

The gear listed below is required for the Ama Dablam Expedition. We encourage you to get all equipment listed below and kindly ensure you check and try every piece of equipment. You can also buy or hire the same in Kathmandu as they are available in the many trekking shops from branded to local manufacturers in Kathmandu.

Head gears:

  • Sunhat X 1
  • Warm hat (should cover head & ear comfortably) X 2
  • Buffs X 2
  • Sunglasses/Glacier Glasses (High-quality, UV-blocking sunglasses with good all-around protection) X 1
  • Ski Googles (Anti Fog and Good Ventilation)
  • Headlamp with spare batteries (200-300 lumens output) X 2

Upper Body:

  • Thermal or fleece base layer top X 3
  • Trekking shirts / t-shirts (Breathable & quick-dry materials) X 3
  • Mid weight top X 2
  • Soft-shell jacket / fleece jacket X 2
  • Prima-loft or light down jacket X 1
  • Waterproof jacket X 1
  • Hardshell Gore Tex jacket with hood X 1
  • Insulated Down Jacket with hood X 1
  • Expedition Down Suit X 1

Lower Body:

  • Thermal or fleece base layer bottom X 3
  • Trekking trousers/pants X 3
  • Mid weight trousers/pants X 2
  • Waterproof pant X 1
  • Hardshell GoreTex pant X 1 (Non-insulated and waterproof)
  • Insulated down pant X 1

Underwear:

  • 5 pairs of synthetic or wool fabrics only

Foot Wear:

  • Hiking Boots X 1
  • Camp shoes X 1
  • 8000m Mountaineering Boot X 1
  • Hiking socks X 4 pairs medium to heavy (synthetic and wool)
  • Liner socks X 2
  • Summit socks X 2
  • Flip flops X 1

Hand Wear:

  • Liner Gloves X 2
  • Midweight gloves X 1
  • Heavy weight gloves( Leather Palm) X 1
  • Down Mittens / Summit gloves X 1

Gears / Personal equipment:

  • Daypack 45-55 liters (To carry water and personal items that you may require while trekking and climbing)
  • Duffel bag (provided by us at request)
  • Down Sleeping bag (-20 C rated) for Base Camp
  • Down Sleeping bag (-30 C rated) for higher camps
  • Thermarest mattress
  • One liter capacity water bottle X 2 (Nalgene)
  • Insulated Cover for Water bottle X 1
  • Trekking poles X 1
  • Camera with charger or spare batteries
  • Personal snacks and energy bars
  • Laundry bag to keep the dirty clothes
  • Padlock
  • Large plastic bags to keep the clothes dry
  • Extra clothes to wear in Kathmandu
  • Umbrella / Poncho

Toiletries and hygiene

  • Quick drying towel
  • Small face towel
  • Toothbrush &Toothpaste
  • Face mask
  • Water treatment tools
  • Soap and Shampoo (Smaller bottle)
  • Face and body moisturizer
  • Sun screen SPF30+ and Lip balm SPF 30+
  • Hand sanitizer/Antiseptic wipes
  • Hygiene products
  • Basic first aid kit

Climbing Gears:

  • Helmet
  • Ice Axe
  • Crampons
  • Harness
  • Carabiners (3 X Screw Gate and 3 X Snap Gate)
  • Descender (ATC Guide/Figure of 8)
  • Ascender/Jumar (Large Handle)
  • Prussik Cord X 2
  • 8mm climbing cord of 3 meters
  • Avalanche transceiver (if possible)

Documents:

  • Passport with validity of 6 months.
  • Credit cards in case of emergencies
  • Driving ID or any other ID in case of loss of your passport
  • Travel Insurance (Please refer to the general information page for more detail about it)
  • Flight tickets

Which boot is best for peak climbing in Nepal? https://highlandexpeditions.com/best-boots-for-nepal-peak-climbing/

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Reviews

John D Warwick

What an outstanding company. Not paying through the nose, I was a little unsure what to expect but these guys were amazing. The comfort, professionalism and safety were second to none. And their schedule was so smart, it did everything to get us to the summit. Well done guys, see you again soon



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