Mera Peak Climb

Trip Overview

Trip Itinerary

Dates & Price

Cost Inclusion

Cost Exclusion

Essential Information

How difficult is Mera peak climb?

Grading: 7-8 (Strenuous)

Mera peak is graded as Alpine PD, which suggests it to be a challenging climb with a very little technical climb and glacier walk. Majority of the climb involves walking in a glacier at a relatively fair degree of steepness with the use of crampons and ice axe. The final section of the climb involves an ascent of snow dome at 5o degree angle with the use of ascender/jumar on a fixed rope. 

Climbing Mera peak is considered strenuous due to longer duration trek/climb in a remote and isolated area that goes above 6000m and you need to sleep at an elevation of 5000m+ for multiple days. Climbers are required to have an excellent physical level. On summit day, you will leave base camp at around 2 am and will only be back to base camp by late afternoon. This grade trip involves usages of climbing equipment (Harness, Ice Axe, Crampons, Mountaineering Boots, Ascender). Previous experience is essential and we also provide a climbing course at base camp before the actual climb where your guides will teach you the proper way to use the equipment.  

Do I need previous experience to take part?

To partake in Mera peak climb, an excellent physical level is required as this trip involves a longer duration of trek/climb. Previous experience of high altitude treks like Everest base camp, Kilimanjaro and climbing smaller peaks is of great advantage while climbing a 6000m peak. While the previous experience of trek/climb is a requirement, our carefully planned itinerary allows people without previous experience to join as well.

We have devised a carefully planned itinerary by keeping wall-paced trek over the longer route by avoiding Chatra La Pass at the beginning. You should also be both mentally and physically prepared for this trip. A fierce determination, burning desire and teamwork is required. We have allowed ample time for acclimatization and contingency day on our itinerary and there will also be a climbing course at the base camp where your guide will teach you the proper way to use the equipment. 

A few days introductory course on the mountaineering skills will be highly beneficial. However, we offer a climbing course at Khare before the actual climb so you can learn the basic mountaineering skills required for the climb during the trip itself. 

When is the best season to climb?

The best seasons for Mera Peak Climb are Autumn (from October till the end of November) and Spring (April to May). Temperatures will drop considerably as you ascend higher every day. The nights are cold (between 5C to -5C) and the days are sunny and hot (between 10C to 20C). Mornings are usually clear, with clouds building up in the afternoon and disappearing at night. Trekking and climbing during the monsoon seasons and winters are not recommended as the visibility is poor and limited whilst upper parts and high passes could be covered with snow. On Mera peak summit, you can expect temperature as low as -15 degree celsius on clear days. 

March, April, October and November are the favoured months. Please choose the date that is convenient for you.

Approach/Route

For Mera peak, we have devised a well-paced itinerary over the longer route by avoiding Zatrwa La Pass at the beginning. Our Mera peak itinerary follows the longer route which allows proper acclimatization and rest days. After multiple days of the trek, we reach the base camp of Mera peak. We have kept a day for training and refreshment at Khare with overnights at Mera La and High Camp to maximise the success chances. Staying overnight at Mera la and high camp have been proved crucial as this allows you to move slowly. 

Mera peak climbing route follows through the Mera glacier. The route consists of snow and ice slopes up to 40 degrees and this can add to longer duration tread at high altitude. Over the years, the glaciers have become more complex and dangerous in the Himalayas due to climate change and this has affected the Mera glacier too. At certain section, scrambling is harder and climbers are required to belay and descent may involve rappelling. 

Training for Mera Peak

High altitude treks and climbs especially in the Himalayas are challenging and requires you to be in the top physical, emotional, and psychological condition. The more fitter you are, the more enjoyable your trip will be. 

Training well ahead in advance is recommended and after you have signed up for the trip, we will send you our training booklet which provides essential information on how best to prepare yourself. 

Whilst on the trip before your actual climb, we will conduct a climbing clinic at the base camp where our guides will teach you the required mountaineering skills. 

What is the guide to client ratio?

Our Guide/Sherpa crews are critical to the success of your climbs that you do with us. We, us professionally trained Sherpa guides & sirdars who are just not hikers & climbers on the mountains but have been trained to perform this task with a lot of common sense & guile.

Kunga Sherpa, Everest summiteer and founder of Highland Expeditions, who has successfully guided and organized over 40 expeditions to 8000m as an expedition sirdar oversees our experienced Sherpa crew that will be with you on the climb.  We ensure that they are confident & experienced. Most of our guides were born in these parts & have relatives living in other parts of the regions where they were born in. We know that locally born staffs are a vital cog in that wheel of sometimes dangerous adventure where anything can happen. At Highland Expeditions, we always make sure that our mountain crews are highly motivated & never compromise.

Climbing Clinic

Once we have completed our acclimatizations, a climbing clinic will be conducted to provide you with the knowledge on the required mountaineering skills to summit the Mera Peak. 

The training will be conducted by your guide and will include the use of all the gears that will be used for the actual climb. Route Briefing, Use of Jumar while ascending on a fixed rope, use of ATC guide or Figure 8 while descending on a fixed rope, how to clip/unclip safety cords to the fixed rope safely and more will be taught on the climbing clinic. The guide will be with you during the training and you can and are encouraged to ask any questions that you may have related to the climbing skills

Are Meals Included?

All meals are included on a trek and climb from Day 03 to 20. We will provide three meals a day (B, L, D) during the trek. The menus in the teahouses are varied, ranging from traditional Nepalese dhal bhat, Momo (Dumpling) to pizza and apple pie. Despite the fact that meat is available in the teahouses, we prompt against eating it on the trek. The meat has frequently been conveyed in the warmth from lower elevations for a few days before arriving at the teahouses and can cause stomach upsets or disease. During the trek, Breakfast and Dinner will be served at the teahouse/lodge where you stay and Lunch will be along the way. For Mera peak base camp, it will be a fully camping style. Our kitchen crew will prepare the food for us. In Kathmandu, only breakfast will be provided to give you the maximum flexibility in deciding where what and with whom to eat for lunch and dinner.

If you have any special dietary requirements please let us know in advance and we will be sure to pass your message to your guide. For a gluten-free diet, we highly recommend you to bring extra foods especially for breakfast as your options for the breakfast will be limited. Meals worth USD 700-800 are included on this trip. 

Will drinking water be provided?

Yes, we provide boiled water for the drinking purpose on all our treks and climbs. During meals time, you can ask the boys to fill the hot water for you. We strongly discourage the use of single-use plastic bottles such as mineral water on all our trips. Carrying a hot water bottle is highly recommended. 

Will I have to carry my own stuff?

You will only carry your day pack carrying the essential items (Water, Cameras, Extra Fleece, Rain jacket, Sunscreen, Snacks, Valuable Items etc.) that you may need during the walk. The porter will carry rest of your gear. We provide 1 porter to every 2 participants and we also provide a duffel bag to put your trekking and climbing gears. 

During the summit push, you will only carry the essential items that may be required during the climb. Since we begin our summit push from high camp and retrace back to base camp the same day, you will only carry essential items, leaving everything else at the high camp. There will also be 1 guide for every 3 climbers, who will be glad to assist you if needed. 

What are the accommodation arrangements?

Hotel: 4 Nights, Teahouse/Lodge: 16 Nights, Camping: 2 Nights

Kathmandu: 
In Kathmandu, we stay at Kathmandu Guest House, a well-known hotel where many famous celebrities like Beatles, Ricky Martin, Jeremy Irons and others have stayed. Centrally located in Thamel, the hotel also boasts of a beautiful garden where you can relax and enjoy the greenery. Breakfast will be provided in the hotel and your accommodation will be on twin sharing basis and if you would like to have a single room, upon request you are required to pay single supplement price as stated in the trip costing.
Regardless of whether you're coming back from the mountains or touching base from the airport, come and unwind at the hotel beautiful garden, request some fine Italian espresso or a chilled Beer, and escape in the memorable surroundings of Kathmandu's most adored guesthouse.

On Trek:
Trekking in the Mera region these days does not need tremendous logistics in accommodation as there are many clean and friendly Lodges along the trail. Rooms are basic, normally just a bed with a pillow and blankets but with a wonderful view from your window.  All the teahouses/lodges have a spacious warm dining room-lounge. The rooms are fairly basic. Blankets are generally provided by the teahouse but we will provide a warm sleeping bag to everyone. Bathrooms are mostly shared and toilets are squat type in most places. We will arrange for you and your group to stay in local lodges daily. Please remember that some of them are very basic and a sense of adventure is necessary.

Mera Peak:
At Mera Peak during your climbing period, your accommodation will be on fully tented camping. A tent will be provided between every 2 climbers. If in case of a single by default, then we will provide a single tent without any additional cost. 

Single supplement: 
Single supplement will be charged if someone wishes to have their own room in Kathmandu. Especially when travelling in a group, we will always pair you with someone of the same sex and similar age to share the room with. If in case of a single by default, then clients don’t have to pay for the single supplement. Please note that on the trek, a single supplement is not available due to limited rooms

Will I need insurance?

It’s mandatory and highly recommended to get travel insurance before embarking on any adventurous trips in Nepal. We advise all our clients to get travel insurance that covers up emergency helicopter evacuation that may be needed in case of the occurrence of AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness) or any other reasons in high altitudes where there are no other means of transportation available. It is advisable to review carefully the insurance and its coverages before making the final decision. Carry proof of your insurance with you on the holiday and leave a copy next to your kin. You must ensure that your insurance provides an adequate level of protection and covers you for the activities involved.

More information: Travel Insurance

Safety measures on trip?

Safety is always a priority while travelling with Highland Expeditions. Our itinerary for Mera peak has been devised carefully ensuring safety and success. We carry supplementary oxygen system and medical kit on our Mera peak trip be it a group of 1 or 12. Besides, we provide high staff to client ratio on our peak climbing trips. 

What is the group size?

Our emphasis is always on maintaining the small group so that it will be easy to coordinate and cooperate with each other. Our group size is small and we only take up to 12 pax in one group. If you opt to join our ‘fixed departure trip’, you are likely to be joining people from different countries of any age group except minors. The size of the group varies, minimum no of persons required to operate the trip is 1 and the maximum is 12 people.

Do I need to join the fixed departure or can I schedule my own date for the climb?

Our trips are available on both fixed departure and private basis. If you are looking for a group to join this trip please check our departures section for availability, dates and price. If you would like to travel independently, or with your friends, families & colleagues you are invited to choose any of the trips at your convenient timeframe for any number of people. If you want to do something that is not included in our trip list, we are ready to tailor a trip to suit your exact requirements. In short, we will make every effort to get you on the trip you want, when you want.

Equipment Checklist

The gear listed below is recommended for this kind of trips. We encourage you to get all equipment listed below for the trip and kindly ensure you check and try every equipment.   You can also buy or hire the same in Kathmandu as they are available in the many trekking shops from branded to local manufacturers in Kathmandu.

Clothing and Footwear

- Long-sleeved shirts
- T-Shirts
- Trousers
- Warm Jackets/Sweater/Pullover
- Waterproof jackets and trousers
- Thermal
- Inner wears
- Under garments
- Warm socks
- Warm Hat, Gloves (Down) and Bandana/Scarf
- Extra clothes to wear in Kathmandu when you come back from the trek.
- Trekking shoes (Full)
- Snow Gaiter
- Slippers/Flip flops to wear at camp
- Daypack 30-35 litres (To carry your sunblock, water, camera, waterproof jackets and others that you may require while trekking)

Documents

- Passport with visa and validity of 6 months after your trip completion
- 4 copies of passport size photos for permits and official formalities
- Travel Insurance (Please refer to the general information page for more detail about it)
- Flight tickets
- Credit cards in case of emergencies
- Driving ID or any other ID in case of loss of your passport.

(Please carry the photocopy of all the documents along with you and leave a copy to next of kin)

Others

- Thermarest or similar sleeping mat
- Headlamps with extra batteries
- Sunglasses with UV protection
- Camera with charger or spare batteries
- A pair of trekking poles
- Water bottle one (1) litre
- Laundry bag to keep the dirty clothes
- Large plastic bags to keep the clothes dry
- Padlock
- Binoculars
- Reading materials, notebooks and pens

Toiletries and hygiene

- Quick drying towel
- Small face towel
- Toothbrush &Toothpaste
- Deodorants, Soap and Shampoo (Smaller bottle)
- Face and body moisturizer, Sunscreen and lip balm
- Hand sanitizer/Antiseptic wipes
- Hygiene products
- Basic first aid kit

The gears listed below will be provided by us for the trek. Down Jacket and Sleeping Bag must be returned after the completion of the trek.

- Down Jacket
- Sleeping bag with Liner
- Duffel/Kit Bag
- Group climbing gears

Personal climbing gears:

- Plastic mountaineering boots
- Mountaineering/Climbing Harness
- Helmet
- Ice Axe
- Crampons
- Ascender/Jumar
- Descender/ 8 figure (Rappelling device)
- Screw gate Karabiners (Lock 2/Unlock 2)
- Prusik loop

Which boot is best for peak climbing in Nepal? https://highlandexpeditions.com/best-boots-for-nepal-peak-climbing/

Other Information

Other information such as (Insurance, Arrival Instructions, Visa and Passport etc) required for the trip will be provided after your trip confirmation. Please feel free to get in touch with us if you require more information about the trip.

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Reviews

Steve C Nov 22, 2019

My Mera peak expedition resulted in a successful and safe climb to the summit and it was achieved through the support and care of our guides (Pemba and Dorje). Their well-paced itinerary also greatly helped us to get to the summit. The Summit climb was tough, tiring and super COLD. All in all a challenging and rewarding experience. 

Ian Morrison Dec 02, 2018

I highly recommend Highland Expeditions to anyone looking for trekking and climbing in Nepal. I climbed Mera Peak together with the team of Highland Expeditions and what an experience it was.

The entire trip was well planned and the itinerary was devised nicely with slow ascent and more acclimatization, the entire staff was amazing, especially our guide Pemba, who was incredibly friendly and expert in his work. In general Highland Expeditions delivered a great service.