A fully guided and supported climb to Island Peak with an acclimatization trek to Everest base camp and Kalapathar
Trip Overview
Highlights
- First and ideal Himalayan climb
- Acclimatization to Kalapathar and Everest Base Camp
- Most sought climbing peak in Everest Region
- Stunning views from the summit.
Island Peak Climb
Island Peak climb is the second most sought climbing peak after Mighty Everest in the Everest region. Existing atop the Chukung glacier amid Lhotse and Amadablam Mountains, this peak comes down like a wing of the ridge from the southern flank of Lhotse Shar which gives it an appearance of an island floating in the sea of ice. Thus, Imja Tse got its name of Island Peak.
This peak was attempted for the first time in 1953 as a training base for Everest Expeditions. To this day, this peak is chosen for practice before climbing bigger mountains. Climbing Island Peak does not involve technical skills but demands physical strength. Island peak is graded as Alpine PD+. Our expert climbing guide will be providing training on Island Peak Base Camp before the actual climb. So, this peak is for amateurs and experts alike. Be prepared for a 250 m fixed rope climb to the summit, 45 degrees of steep ascent on the headwall and an exposed ridge walk towards the summit.
Island Peak climbing route progresses through glacial moraines of Imja and Lhotse and stretches along Sagarmatha National Park and Sherpa villages. Learn about the time-forgotten culture, tradition and religion of the Sherpa people. Spring and Autumn are the two best seasons for Island Peak Climb.
Island Peak Climb with Everest Base Camp Trek
Our Island peak climbing itinerary follows a carefully planned approach with an acclimatization trek to Everest Base Camp & Kalapathar. Instead of attempting Island peak straight, we will visit Everest base camp (5,364m/17,559ft), climb Kalapathar (5,545m/18,193ft) and finally reach the base camp of Island peak. A climbing clinic will be conducted at base camp where you can refresh/learn the required skills to climb the peak.
Combing Island Peak Climb with Everest Base Camp Trek for acclimatization has led to a massive increase in the success ratio and we have allowed ample time for acclimatization and scheduled a contingency day in our itinerary to maximise the summit chances.
Your safety is our prime concern and not only have we placed enough leisure days in the itinerary for acclimatization but all of our climbing guides are well trained and certified. Island Peak with Everest base camp trek provides an excellent opportunity for adventure enthusiasts to experience both high-altitude trekking and peak climbing in the Himalayas.
Why climb Island peak with us?
At Highland Expeditions we always believe in ‘Safety first and Service paramount’. The success of any climb depends largely on a carefully planned itinerary and the best logistics and these are what we offer. We are committed to maintaining the climb safe and successful with the quality of service.
Our emphasis is always on maintaining the small group so that it will be easy to coordinate and cooperate with each other.
You will be guided by highly professional guides/Sherpas who have experience in successfully climbing several national and international peaks.
At Highland Expeditions, we provide a 1:3 climbing guide to client ratio on summit days. They will assist you and help you reach the summit of Island peak.
All our groups are backed up with a Supplementary oxygen system and comprehensive medical kit.
Acclimatization trek to Everest base camp, Kalapathar and Khongma La Pass to maximise the summit chances.
We are dedicated to providing the highest professionalism throughout the climb by taking utmost care of all the logistics needed.
Is Island Peak hard to climb?
Island Peak (6,189m/20,305ft) is graded under Alpine PD+ which suggests it to be a challenging climb. Climbers must be in the excellent physical condition and previous experience of trekking at high altitudes is definitely recommended.
For climbing, you need to be familiar with crampons, climbing harnesses, fixed ropes, abseiling and rappelling. Island peak climbing offers a real climbing experience with the use of a ladder and fixed ropes on steep snow sleeves on 45 degrees.
You will be receiving a full day of pre-climb training at the base camp from our guides, where you can learn mountaineering skills and know the correct way of using climbing gears. It would be beneficial to prepare yourself for the climb with some regular training including running, cycling or gym work. Be prepared to walk for 6-7 hrs per day on average. Summit day can be 10-14 hrs long.
While the previous experience of high-altitude treks is a requirement, our carefully planned itinerary allows people without previous experience to join as well.
Read our top 10 tips for Island peak climb
Important Note: Your safety is of imperative concern while travelling with Highland Expeditions. Please take care to note that your leader/guide has the authority to amend or cancel any part of the itinerary if it is deemed necessary due to your safety concerns. Every effort will be made to keep to the above itinerary; however, since this adventure entails travelling in remote mountainous regions, we cannot guarantee that we will not deviate from it. Weather and health condition of a group member, unexpected natural disasters, etc., can all contribute to changes in the itinerary. The Trek & Climb leader/guide will try to ensure that the trip runs according to plan, but please be prepared to be flexible if required.
Trip Itinerary
Dates & Price
Our trips are available on both fixed departure and private group basis.
If you are looking for a group to join this trip please click the Fixed Departures tab for more information on departure dates, availability and price. All our fixed departures are guaranteed to run. Or, if you would like to do this trip alone, or with your friends, families & colleagues in a private group style, please fill out the contact form in Private Group tab and send us your message. We will organize a private trip for you at your preferred dates catering any request you may have.
Sep, 2024
Oct, 2024
Nov, 2024
Apr, 2025
May, 2025
Sep, 2025
Oct, 2025
Nov, 2025
Cost Inclusion
- Fully supported and guided climb to Mera Peak
- 1 lead guide and 1:3 Sherpa guide to client ratio on bigger group size
- All peak permit fees, garbage deposit and trek permit fees
- All meals (B,L,D) with tea/coffee/boiled water during the trekking period
- Twin sharing accommodation at teahouse/lodge during the trekking period
- All meals and high quality tents on twin sharing basis for the climbing period
- Twin sharing accommodation at Kathmandu guest house or similar category for 4 nights with breakfast
- All internal airfares as per itinerary with transfers
- All ground transfers as per mentioned in the itinerary with international airport pickup/drop as per your flight time.
- Climbing guide summit bonus, wages and insurance
- Staffs wages, allowances with their insurance
- Comprehensive first aid kit with supplementary oxygen system
- Porterage of equipment required during trekking and climbing
- Waterproof Duffel bag, Sleeping bag and Down Jacket (Sleeping bag and down jacket must be returned after completion of trek)
- Peak climbing certificate issued by Nepal Mountaineering Association
Cost Exclusion
- International airfare
- Visa and travel insurance
- Meals at Kathmandu
- Personal Clothing and Climbing Gears
- Extra night accommodation in Kathmandu or on trek for any reason (Early arrival or delay, Early arrival from trek due to any reason)
- Personal expenses and tips
Essential Information
Equipment list for Island Peak Climb
The gear listed below is recommended for this kind of trips. We encourage you to get all equipment listed below for the trip and kindly ensure you check and try every equipment. You can also buy or hire the same in Kathmandu as they are available in the many trekking shops from branded to local manufacturers in Kathmandu.
Head gears:
- Sunhat X 1
- Warm hat (should cover head & ear comfortably) X 1
- Buffs X 2
- Sunglasses (High-quality, UV-blocking sunglasses with good all-around protection) X 1
- Headlamp with spare batteries (200-300 lumens output) X 1
Upper Body:
- Thermal or fleece base layer top X 2
- Trekking shirts/t-shirts (Breathable and quick-dry materials) – full sleeve x 2 and short sleeve x 2
- Mid-Layer Jacket X 2 (Lightweight downs are good as well)
- Soft-shell jacket X 1 (Water and Wind Resistant)
- Hardshell jacket with a hood X 1 (Fully waterproof shell jacket, must fit comfortably over mid layers)
- Insulated Down Jacket X 1 (provided by us at request)
Lower Body:
- Thermal or fleece base layer bottom X 2
- Trekking trousers/pants X 3
- Hardshell pants X 1 for climbing days (Non-insulated and waterproof)
- Insulated down pant (optional) X 1
Underwear:
- 4 pairs of synthetic or wool fabrics only
Hand Wear:
- Liner Gloves X 1
- Midweight gloves X 1
- Expedition Down Mittens (Leather Palm) X 1
Foot Wear:
- Waterproof Hiking Boots (Preferably full to protect/support your ankle) X 1
- Double Layer Mountaineering Boot X 1
- Hiking socks X 4 pairs medium to heavy (synthetic and wool)
- Summit socks X 2
- Liner socks X 2
- Gaiter X 1 Pair
- Flip flop or Sneaker (To wear at teahouses and in city)
- Down booties (Optional)
Climbing Gears:
- Helmet
- Ice Axe
- Crampons
- Harness
- Carabiners (2 X Screw Gate and 2 X Snap Gate )
- Belay Device X 1
- Ascender/Jumar (Large Handle)
- Prussik Cord
- Safety Cord (2 m length)
Gears / Personal equipment:
- Daypack 40-45 liters (For both trekking and climbing)
- Duffel bag (provided by us at request)
- Down Sleeping bag (-20 C rated) with compression sack (provided by us at request)
- One litre capacity water bottle X 2 (Nalgene)
- Insulated Cover for Water bottle X 1
- Trekking poles
- Camera with charger or spare batteries
- Personal snacks, comfort foods, energy bars and gels
- A laundry bag to keep the dirty clothes
- Padlock (Optional)
- Earplugs (Recommended for light sleeper)
- Large plastic bags to keep the clothes dry
- Extra clothes to wear in Kathmandu when you come back from trek.
Toiletries and hygiene
- Quick drying towel
- Small face towel
- Toothbrush &Toothpaste
- Face mask
- Water treatment tools
- Soap and Shampoo (Smaller bottle)
- Face and body moisturizer
- Sunscreen SPF50+ and Lip balm SPF 30+
- Hand sanitiser/Antiseptic wipes
- Hygiene products
- Basic first aid kit
Documents:
- Passport with validity of 6 months.
- Credit cards in case of emergencies
- Travel Insurance
- Flight tickets
Which boot is best for peak climbing in Nepal? https://highlandexpeditions.com/best-boots-for-nepal-peak-climbing/
Reviews
I did the Island Peak and Everest base camp trek with my son, and what an incredible experience. It was hard, it was cold and it was amazing. The summit day was challenging but rewarding. A tough climb to 6189 metres but slow and steady does the trick. Thank you again and we made it
Having known the people who started this company a long time ago its grown a lot since then and just gets better and better. I and a group of friends took the challenge of Everest base camp trek with Island peak climb during Spring 2019. I have personally visited Nepal a couple of times before and this time I decided to go big by climbing a 6000m peak.
I knew Pasang from before and I knew that he is the man who can pull this together even at a short notice and yet deliver a great experience. I got in touch with Pasang and he helped me with all the planning and preparation for the climb. On trek & climb, it was outstanding with all the experiences and services delivered as said. On our return, the weather was not good for the fight to operate so without any further delay, Pasang got us in a helicopter on the same day.
Took a while for me to leave a review of our climbing experience but they did a great job
John, Rob, Dan, Jeff