Lobuche East and Island Peak Climb

Climb the two most popular peaks in Everest region

Group Size

Min 1 Max 12

Duration

26 Days

Grade

Strenuous

Max. Altitude

6,189m/20,305ft

Activity

Peak Climbing in Nepal

Meals Included

All Meals

Accomodation

Teahouse/Camping

Best Season

Apr-May, Oct-Nov

All inclusive cost

From USD 4,200

Durations
26 Days

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Secure & Flexible Payments
Instant Booking

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Climb the two most popular peaks Lobuche East and Island Peak in a single trip with an acclimatization trek over Gokyo and Chola Pass.

Trip Overview

Lobuche and Island Peak Climb
Ascent of two popular 6000m peaks in a single trip
Everest Base Camp and Kalapathar
Acclimatization trek via Gokyo and Chola Pass

Lobuche East and Island Peak Climb is an excellent Himalayan climbing holiday that includes climbing the two most popular 6000m trekking peaks in a single trip with a trek via Gokyo and Chola Pass for better acclimatization.

The two most climbed peaks in the Everest region, Lobuche East and Island Peak have always been argued over as to which one offers a better climbing experience and better view. Which is technical and which isn’t? Which one is suitable for beginners and which isn’t?

Lobuche East Peak and Island Peak are the two most sought-after peaks in the Everest region, with both peaks rising above 6000m above sea level.

The climb of both peaks offers a different climbing experience and a different view from the summit. Both peaks are perfectly suitable for anyone who is looking to climb their first 6000m peak. Lobuche East stands tall at 6119m/20,075ft while the Island peak at 6,189m/20,305ft.

Lobuche East offers a more panoramic view of Everest and its surroundings and the Island Peak offers an impressive close-up view of Lhotse South Face and Mt. Ama Dablam.

Both peaks are classified as trekking peaks by the Nepal Mountaineering Association and are graded as Alpine PD+ on the Alpine grading system.

Instead of looking at which peak to climb, why not climb both peaks in a single trip? Our Lobuche East and Island Peak trip is a specially tailored climbing trip that allows you to climb these two famous peaks in a single trip plus we have added an acclimatization trek over Gokyo and Chola Pass.

Lobuche East and Island Peak Trip Overview

Our Lobuche East and Island Peak trip is a fantastic climbing holiday which will provide you with an ultimate climbing experience with a well-paced itinerary.

This trip is perfectly suitable for beginners and you do not need previous climbing experience to take part. We have carefully planned the itinerary in order to provide a well-paced walk, proper acclimatizations and most importantly not missing out on any major highlights of the region.

Our approach to these mountains will be via Gokyo Ri/Lakes and Chola Pass to ensure that we are properly acclimatized. Also, after climbing Lobuche East we will visit Everest Base Camp and Kalapathar before heading towards Island Peak.

Similarly, a climbing clinic will be conducted before the actual climbing where you will learn the basic and required skills to climb the peak. Both peaks are climbed on a fixed rope which makes the climbing safer and easier too.

Lobuche East Peak Climb Overview

At 6119m, Lobuche East Peak is a slightly more technical climb than Island peak. The summit day on Lobuche East will be around 12 hrs long. We will leave for the summit from the Lobuche high camp.

After almost 2 hrs, we get to the crampon point of Lobuche Peak, which is just at the base of a 60-degree vertical climb on a fixed rope. From here, the climb begins somewhat technical with climbing on mixed conditions of rock, ice and snow. After another 3-4 hrs of mixed climbing on a fixed rope on an average 45-degree incline we get to the summit of Lobuche East (6119m/20,075ft).

Island Peak Climb Overview

Island peak or also known as Imja Tse will be attempted directly from the Island peak base camp. The summit day from base camp to summit and back to base camp will take around 12 hrs as well.

We will take a moderate climb for the first part of the climb before reaching the steep hillside. The terrain frequently changes to boulder. We will follow the tapered path through a steep rock channel to emerge to the gully. Walking through a ridgeline, we conquer challenges proposed by seracs and crevasses. We will proceed through the snout of the summit glacier with the help of ropes and move through 40- degree snow slopes to reach the summit.

The challenge of the climb is rewarded with the gratifying views of Lhotse Mountain, Nuptse Mountain, Makalu, Baruntse and Amadablam Mountains.

Is this trip for you?

Lobuche East and Island Peak Climb includes an ascent of two 6000m peaks with a trek via Gokyo and Chola Pass. Previous experiences of trekking at high altitudes and basic mountaineering skills will be beneficial but it is not a must. However, you must be physically and mentally fit and have a very strong physical stamina level.

This grade trip involves the usage of peak climbing equipment (Harness, Crampons, Mountaineering Boots, Ascender). Previous experience of climbing smaller peaks is essential but we also provide a climbing course at base camp so you can acquire the skills required for the climb on the trip itself.

If you want to add another peak to this trip, then we recommend another fantastic climbing holiday Khumbu Three Peaks which also includes an ascent of three peaks (Island Peak, Pokhalde Peak and Lobuche East)

Or, if you want to climb all three major trekking peaks in Nepal (Lobuche East, Island Peak and Mera Peak) then check out our Three Peaks Climbing Trip.

Arrival at Tribhuvan International Airport, Nepal. Upon completing the visa formalities and collecting your luggages in the airport, kindly proceed to the exit of the arrival hall. Your trip leader will await you just outside the arrival hall and will escort you to your hotel in Kathmandu. Please look out for a placard of Highland Expeditions.

Accommodation:

Hotel

Max Elevation:

1,350m/4,430ft

Today, your trek and climb leader will brief you about your trekking and climbing program. We will do the trip briefing and gear check. And in case you have fallen short of any trek and climb equipment that you may need, this time can be used to arrange for it.

Meals:

Breakfast

Accommodation:

Hotel

Max Elevation:

1,350m/4,430ft

Wake up early in the morning and leave the hotel at approx 5 am to catch a flight to Lukla. Flight times are generally scheduled for early morning and the exact airport time will be announced a day earlier.
At Lukla, we are immediately overcome by the scale of the massive peaks that surround the village but this is only an indication of what is to come. After meeting the crew, we head up the Dudh Koshi Valley on a well-marked trail and then stay overnight in Phakding.

Overall elevation gain tonight from previous night: 1,250m/4,100ft

Meals:

Breakfast,Lunch,Dinner

Accommodation:

Teahouse/Lodge

Duration:

4 hrs

O/N Elevation:

2,600m/8,531ft

We will move along Dudhkoshi River which will take us through the pine forest. After crossing suspension bridges at several points and passing through small settlements of Zapute, Toktok, Benkar and Chumoa, we will reach Monjo. This is known as the gateway to the Sagarmatha National Park. At Monjo, our trek leader will deal with all necessary national park formalities and then we will enter Sagarmatha National Park. Lowering down from the park, we will arrive at the river. Crossing another suspension bridge, we will proceed towards the high Hillary Bridge located at the foot of the hill. Crossing this bridge, we will climb uphill to the Namche Bazaar. We can get a view of Thamserku Mountain. If the weather is clear, we can also have the first view of Mt. Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse and Kusum Khangru mountains. We will stay overnight in a lodge in Namche Bazaar.

Meals:

Breakfast,Lunch,Dinner

Accommodation:

Teahouse/Lodge

Duration:

6-7 hrs

O/N Elevation:

3,450m/11,319ft

Namche Bazaar is regarded as a gateway to the high Himalayas. It is also the main trading centre and the capital of Sherpa land. Rest is recommended in Namche for acclimatization purposes. A short hike will be arranged to the ancient Sherpa village of Thame to observe the rich Sherpa culture or we can also visit nearby Khumjung, Khunde or Khongde villages. Shopping in the marketplace of Namche is another fine idea. National Park Head office, Museum and monasteries are other places of interest. The area is clustered with cafes, shops, bakeries and restaurants. The place supports facilities of the post office, hospital, and government health post. Internet access is also available at Namche so that you can contact your near ones. Overnight stay in a lodge in Namche Bazaar.

Meals:

Breakfast,Lunch,Dinner

Accommodation:

Teahouse/Lodge

Duration:

3-4 hrs

O/N Elevation:

3,450m/11,319ft

Today it’s a steep climb out of Namche Bazaar up to Kyangjuma Village. At Kyangjuma, we can contemplate terrific views of Thamserku, Kantega, and Ama Dablam. The tough part of today is surely going to be the ascent of the Mong La, a very appealing place hanging on the spur of Mt. Khumbila. A medieval historical Chorten stands at the centre of the settlement of Mong La. We spend some time at the top of Mong La looking with awe at the surrounding snow-capped mountains and valleys while enjoying lunch. The most eye-catching feature of the trail today is the wealth of plant and animal vegetation including wildflowers and Rhododendrons that we see on the way. We may even spot wild lives like pheasants, mountain goats, and the subtle musk deer. Continuing our hike through forests, some waterfalls and bridges, we reach Dole, a small village with few teahouses.

Overall elevation gain tonight from the previous night: 590m/1,936ft

Meals:

Breakfast,Lunch,Dinner

Accommodation:

Teahouse/Lodge

Duration:

5-6 hrs

Max Elevation:

4,040m/13,255ft

Today it’s another short day starting with a climb out of the small Dole Valley before ascending more gradually up the Dudh Kosi valley, high above the river. The walking is easy, but we will still feel the effects of altitude on even the smallest hillock. The barren alpine scenery with only small clusters of scrub juniper is a stark contrast to the snowy white peaks and deep blue skies. After two hours, we will arrive at Luza (4360m), and after a further hour’s walk, we reach our lodge at Machhermo (4465m) where you will spend the evening. After lunch, there is an option to take an excursion across rocky moraines to the base of Kyajo Ri (6168m) and Machhermo Peak (6073m). However, keep an eye open for the Yeti! It was here, in 1974 that three yaks were killed and a Sherpa girl injured when trying to fight off a hairy, ape-like intruder that could have been a hungry grizzly bear!

Overall elevation gain tonight from previous night: 430m/1,411ft

Meals:

Breakfast,Lunch,Dinner

Accommodation:

Teahouse/Lodge

Duration:

4-5 hrs

Max Elevation:

4,470m/14,665ft

We are more or less nearing an altitude of 4500m, so we haul up at Machhermo for an extra day to acclimatize by getting our bodies used to the thin air as we climb up. There are plenty of outlets for exploration around the camp and just above the village, there is a gracious vista that encircles Cho Oyu at [8210m] and the mountains which flank the Ngozumpa Glacier.

Meals:

Breakfast,Lunch,Dinner

Accommodation:

Teahouse/Lodge

Duration:

3-4 hrs

Max Elevation:

4,470m/14,665ft

After breakfast, we climb through a crest Chorten from where we enjoy master views of the valley below and Mt. Kangtega, Thamserku, and the northern part of Cho-Oyu at (8153m). Beyond the ridge, the valley opens out as the trail passes through a Chorten and reaches Phangka at (4480m) after a brief soft hike. Phangka is an area where an avalanche in 1995 killed 40 people. We descend to the river bank before beginning to climb up to the terminal moraine of the Ngozumpa Glacier. It is a steep climb on the moraine. After crossing an iron bridge over a stream the trail levels out as it follows the valley past the first lake, known as Longpongo at 4690m, where we get a chance to see the Lama footprints on a stone. As we see the sights of the second lake, Taboche Tsho, we watch in awe the glimmering turquoise blue mass of water dazzling in the sunshine. Just ahead of the second lake, we reach the third lake, the two connected by a heaving stream. Gokyo village is neatly placed by the third lake and Cho-Oyu Mountains stand tall in the backdrops, setting off stunning scenery, an ideal spot for our video cams to go on overdrive in this awesome area. After lunch, we discover more of the third Lake, Dudh Pokhari.

Overall elevation gain tonight from previous night: 330m/1,083ft

Meals:

Breakfast,Lunch,Dinner

Accommodation:

Teahouse/Lodge

Duration:

5-6 hrs

Max Elevation:

4,800m/15,750ft

Morning climb to Gokyo Ri. Gokyo Ri is a major viewpoint in the Gokyo region and the view from the top is mesmerizing. We retrace to Gokyo for breakfast and we soon leave this zone with lifetime memories never to be forgotten. After relishing a warm breakfast, we trek down to Thagnak for overnight scaling by the second of the Lakes; the route across the glacier is identified by cairns and is pretty well determined. We climb off the glacier by a small dwelling known as Thagnak and follow a low valley to our camp by a small kharka.

Overall elevation gain tonight from the previous night: -50m/-164ft

Meals:

Breakfast,Lunch,Dinner

Accommodation:

Teahouse/Lodge

Duration:

6-7 hrs

Max Elevation:

5,357m/17,575ft

Cho La Pass is also another show-up of this trip. The pass is not itself difficult but it is steep and involves a glacier traverse on the eastern side. We need to be careful as the trail is vertical and the rocks glazed by ice add trouble to the trekkers making the trail slippery. While trekking through the side of a frozen lake we reach the top of the pass decorated with prayer flags. The pyramidal Ama Dablam presides over a range of mountains on the south even as Cholatse soar on the west and Lobuche East and Baruntse rise sharply to our right. We need to pass through some crevasses before we reach Dzongla, another beautiful place with a complete view of Mt. Cholatse, Mt. Ama Dablam, Lobuche peak and the Pheriche village far below.Cho La Pass is also another show-up of this trip. The pass is not itself difficult but it is steep and involves a glacier traverse on the eastern side. We need to be careful as the trail is vertical and the rocks glazed by ice add trouble to the trekkers making the trail slippery. While trekking through the side of a frozen lake we reach the top of the pass decorated with prayer flags. The pyramidal Ama Dablam presides over a range of mountains on the south even as Cholatse soar on the west and Lobuche East and Baruntse rise sharply to our right. We need to pass through some crevasses before we reach Dzongla, another beautiful place with a complete view of Mt. Cholatse, Mt. Ama Dablam, Lobuche peak and the Pheriche village far below.

Overall elevation gain tonight from the previous night: 70m/230ft

Meals:

Breakfast,Lunch,Dinner

Accommodation:

Teahouse/Lodge

Duration:

7-8 hrs

Max Elevation:

5,420m/17,783ft

After breakfast, there will be a climbing clinic scheduled today. You will receive pre-climb training from your guide on this day. The skills required for the climb will be taught with the proper use of equipment and knowledge of the terrain.

The rest of the day is free to rest and recover.

Meals:

Breakfast,Lunch,Dinner

Accommodation:

Teahouse/Lodge

Duration:

3-4 hrs

Max Elevation:

4820m/15,814ft

Leaving Dzongla, we will move along a rocky moraine path towards Lobuche High Camp. From Dzongla, it is an uphill climb all the way to the Lobuche high camp. We will climb through the rocky terrain to Lobuche High Camp.

Meals:

Breakfast,Lunch,Dinner

Accommodation:

Tented Camping

Duration:

4-5 hrs

Max Elevation:

5,400m/17,712ft

We will wake up quite early this day as we aim to reach the summit before 10 am. We head out to the summit during predawn at around 2 am. The exact time of departure from the high camp will be suggested as per your walking pace. From the high camp to the summit it’s about 7-8 hrs of a climb and the descent to the high camp will take around 4 hrs.

The first few hours of a climb don’t involve the use of crampons and the terrain mostly consists of snow and rock. Fixed ropes are usually placed along all the sections of the climb starting from the high camp. After almost 3 hrs, we get to the crampon point of Lobuche Peak, which is just at the base of a 60-degree vertical climb on a fixed rope. From here, the climb begins somewhat technical with climbing on mixed conditions of rock, ice and snow.

After another 3 hrs of mixed climbing on a fixed rope on an average 45-degree incline we get to the summit of Lobuche East (6119m/20,075ft).

The summit allows enticing views of Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, Cholatse, Ama Dablam, Pumori and other mountains in the Everest region. After spending some quality time at the summit, we will lower down to Lobuche High Camp for lunch and then towards Lobuche for an overnight stay.

Meals:

Breakfast,Lunch,Dinner

Accommodation:

Teahouse/Lodge

Duration:

12-14 hrs

Max Elevation:

6,119m/20,075ft

An early start is required to reach the Everest Base Camp. It takes several hours as the trail weaves its way through ice pinnacles and past the crevasses of the Khumbu Glacier. After a brief lunch and rest, we take the trail to Everest Base Camp through the once-vast Gorak Shep Lake. Only upon reaching the Everest Base Camp do we really appreciate the Everest climbers who brave the risky route through the Khumbu icefall. Mountaineer’s tents stand out in bright colours against the monotony of grey surroundings (especially in the spring). Nuptse, Khumbuste and Pumori are the mountains we can view from the base camp. On the return leg, we can take a higher route to get a grand view of the Khumbu icefall and the route to the South Col. We to return to Gorakshep for a restful night.

Meals:

Breakfast,Lunch,Dinner

Accommodation:

Teahouse/Lodge

Duration:

10 hrs

Max Elevation:

5,140m/16,864ft

Be prepared to tackle thin air at this high altitude. We start early at dawn to catch the dramatic views from Kalapatthar witnessing the first light of day shining on Mt. Everest. However, we need to get prepared for an early morning, dark and cold temperature (-10 to -14 C) departure beforehand. Plus, there is always the potential for chilly winds which are quite common. Familiar peaks such as Lingtren, Khumbutse, and Changtse tower to the east even as Everest begins to expose itself emerging between the west shoulder crest and Nuptse. During the ascent to Kalapatthar, we can pause to catch our breath at several outstanding viewpoints to click pictures. After several hours of ascent, we reach Kalapatthar. From here, we scuttle to climb the rocky outcrop near the summit marked by cairns and prayer flags. As we reach the top, we sit on the Kalapatthar rocks and our eyes take in the unbelievable Himalayan views, wandering from one mighty massif to another. We take as many pictures as we possibly can with our camera so they can last a lifetime. After this, we make our way back to Dingboche with a slow descent.

Meals:

Breakfast,Lunch,Dinner

Accommodation:

Teahouse/Lodge

Duration:

8 hrs

Max Elevation:

5,545m/18,193ft

Leaving Dingboche, we head towards Chukung today which will take about 2-3hrs trek only. The trek today is relatively easier and shorter. Arrive at Chukung for lunch and the rest of the day is to rest, recover and do final preparation for Island Peak.

Meals:

Breakfast,Lunch,Dinner

Accommodation:

Teahouse/Lodge

Duration:

4-5 hrs

Max Elevation:

4,730m/15,518ft

From Chukung, we will reach Island Peak Base Camp. Climbing south from Chukung, we will head east and proceed through Lhotse glacier through Imja and Lhotse glacier moraines to the southwest side of Island Peak where we will set our camp. The site offers scenic views of surrounding mountains and moraine valleys.

Meals:

Breakfast,Lunch,Dinner

Accommodation:

Tented Camping

Duration:

2-3 hrs

Max Elevation:

4,970m/16,300ft

We will wake up much early on this day, leaving Base Camp at around 3 am. We will take a moderate climb for the first part of the climb before reaching the steep hillside. The terrain frequently changes from sandy area to meadow to boulder. From the hill, we will follow the tapered path through a steep rock channel to emerge into the gully. Walking through a ridgeline, we conquer the challenges proposed by seracs and crevasses. We will proceed through the snout of the summit glacier with the help of ropes and move through 40- degree snow slopes to reach the summit. The challenge of the climb is rewarded with the gratifying views of Lhotse Mountain, Nuptse Mountain, Makalu, Baruntse and Amadablam Mountains. We will capture the memories in the camera and then prepare ourselves for a long descent to the Base Camp and trek to Chukung. We will celebrate the successful climb of our second objective.

Meals:

Breakfast,Lunch,Dinner

Accommodation:

Teahouse/Lodge

Duration:

10-12 hrs

Max Elevation:

6,189m/20,305ft

Contingency day for any delays or weather factors.

Meals:

Breakfast,Lunch,Dinner

Accommodation:

Teahouse/Lodge

We will follow the easy descending trail from Lobuche Base Camp. The path from Lobuche to Pheriche is scenic with a close-up view of Ama Dablam Mountain. From Pheriche, we will move further to Pangboche through the rhododendron and juniper forest.

Meals:

Breakfast,Lunch,Dinner

Accommodation:

Teahouse/Lodge

Duration:

6-7 hrs

Max Elevation:

3,985m/13,075ft

Leaving Pangboche early in the morning, we will follow the return trail along Imja River that takes us through the forest of birch and spruce to Tengboche village. After a brief stop in Tengboche, we will follow the trail through a forest of blooming rhododendron to the bridge. We will cross the bridge over the Dudh Koshi River and move through the Dudh Koshi gorge and pine forest to Sansa village. The region is rich in Himalayan wildlife like mountain goats, Thars and local birds. We will pass through the chorten to the army camp at Namche Bazaar.

Meals:

Breakfast,Lunch,Dinner

Accommodation:

Teahouse/Lodge

Duration:

5-6 hrs

Max Elevation:

3,450m/11,319ft

Our last day of trek following the Dudh Kosi River down to Lukla. It’s only a gradual walk along the Dudh Kosi river after our steep descent from Namche. We’ll have lunch on our way and we make the final climb up to the airstrip at Lukla. The rest of the day is free and you can relax under the warm sun & reflect on the emotional experiences we had while hiking through these massive mountains that have probably helped us re-discover ourselves in ways least expected. This is our final day in these fantastic mountains. Later we celebrate our successful completion of the trek & climb with our Sherpa guides and porters who we’ve got to know so well & are now good friends. It’s a pleasure to end this wonderful trip on a happy note. We then slumber into blissful sleep.

Meals:

Breakfast,Lunch,Dinner

Accommodation:

Teahouse/Lodge

Duration:

6-7 hrs

Max Elevation:

2,800m/9187ft

We get up early in the morning, enjoy our b/fast & get ready for the arrival of our aircraft for the flight back to Kathmandu. On our touchdown at the Kathmandu airport, you will be transferred to your hotel. The rest of your day is free to do your own things.

Meals:

Breakfast

Accommodation:

Hotel

Max Elevation:

1,350m/4,430ft

Enjoy a leisurely day. You are on your own. Participating in a day tour in Kathmandu is a pleasant plan. You can also go shopping in Thamel, a tourist hub where you can buy souvenir items like handicrafts and arts for your family.
Please do not hesitate to let us know if you would like to extend your stay. Kindly email us for more details on extensions.

Max Elevation:

1,350m/4,430ft

Finally, the undeniable day of departure arrives. Thank you for joining us on this climb and it has been a pleasure getting to know you during this time. We hope this venture has enriched your experience with happy memories. You will be assisted in your last-minute preparation. Our representative will take you to Tribhuvan International Airport three hours before your scheduled flight. Keep in touch and hope to hear from you soon. Bon voyage for a safe and pleasant trip home.

Meals:

Breakfast

Itinerary Disclaimer: Please take care to note that your leader/guide has the authority to amend or cancel any part of the itinerary if it is deemed necessary due to your safety concerns. Every effort will be made to keep to the above itinerary; however, since this adventure entails traveling in remote mountainous regions, we cannot guarantee that we will not deviate from it. Weather, the health condition of a group member, unexpected natural disasters, etc., can all contribute to changes in the itinerary. Your leader/guide will try to ensure that the trip runs according to plan, but please be prepared to be flexible if required.

Availability

Our trips are available on both group departure and private trip.

If you’re looking to join a group, click the Group Departures tab for details on dates, availability, and pricing. All our group departures are guaranteed to run once signed up.

If you prefer a private trip with your friends, family, or colleagues, please fill out the contact form in the Private Trip tab. We’ll organize a personalized trip for you on your preferred dates, accommodating any special requests you may have.

Choose the Year and Month that you plan to travel

DATES

PRICE

DEPOSIT

AVAILABILITY

26 Days

15 Apr, 2025 - 10 May, 2025

USD 4,200

20% Deposit

USD 840

12 in a group

Available

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Lobuche East and Island Peak Climb

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Fully guided climb with experienced climbing guides on a 1:3 ratio (Guide to client ratio)
Meals and Accommodation at Tea Houses/Lodges during the trekking period
Meals and High-quality mountain tents during the climbing period
Twin-sharing accommodation at Kathmandu guest house or similar category for 4 nights with breakfast
All peaks permit with garbage deposits.
National Park Fees
KTM-LUKLA-KTM Airfare
Kathmandu airport transfers and escorts
Comprehensive first aid kit with a supplementary oxygen system
Personal/Group climbing gears
Porterage of equipment required during trekking and climbing
Waterproof Duffel bag, Sleeping bag and Down Jacket (Sleeping bag and down jacket must be returned after completion of the trek)
Peak climbing certificate issued by Nepal Mountaineering Association
Staff summit bonus, insurance and allowances

nternational airfare, Visa and travel insurance
Meals at Kathmandu
Extra night accommodation in Kathmandu or on the trek for any reason (Early arrival or delay, Early arrival from trek due to any reason)
Personal expenses and tips

Difficulty

Grading: 7-8 (Strenuous)

Lobuche and Island peak climbing is considered strenuous due to the longer duration trek/climb in a remote and isolated area that goes above 5500m and you need to sleep at an elevation of 5000m+ for multiple days. Climbers are required to have an excellent physical level. On summit days, you will leave base camp at around 2 am and will only be back to base camp by late afternoon.

This grade trip involves the usage of climbing equipment (Harness, Ice Axe, Crampons, Mountaineering Boots, Ascender). Previous experience is essential and we also provide a climbing course at base camp before the actual climb where your guides will teach you the proper way to use the equipment.

Previous Experience

To partake in this climb, an excellent physical level is required as this trip involves a longer duration of trek/climb. Previous experience of high altitude treks and climbing smaller peaks is of great advantage while climbing 6000m peaks.

While previous experience of trek/climb is a requirement, our carefully planned itinerary allows people without previous experience to join as well. We begin the trip with an acclimatized trek to Lobuche peak via Gokyo and Chola Pass. And afterwards, visit the Everest base camp and Kalapathar before heading to Island peak.

You should also be both mentally and physically prepared for this trip. A fierce determination, burning desire and teamwork is required. We have allowed ample time for acclimatization and contingency day on our itinerary and there will also be a climbing course at the base camp where your guide will teach you the proper way to use the equipment.

Meals

All meals are included on the trek and climb from Day 03 to 24. We will provide three meals a day (B, L, D) during the trek. The menus in the teahouses are varied, ranging from traditional Nepalese dhal bhat, Momo (Dumpling) to pizza and apple pie. Despite the fact that meat is available in the teahouses, we prompt against eating it on the trek. The meat has frequently been conveyed in the warmth from lower elevations for a few days before arriving at the teahouses and can cause stomach upsets or disease. During the trek, Breakfast and Dinner will be served at the teahouse/lodge where you stay and Lunch will be along the way.

For the climbing period on Island Peak and Lobuche Peak, it will be fully camping style. We use the camping facilities available at the base camp which are set up and run by the locals. The kitchen crew will prepare freshly cooked food for us.

In Kathmandu, only breakfast will be provided to give you the maximum flexibility in deciding where what and with whom to eat for lunch and dinner.

If you have any special dietary requirements please let us know in advance and we will be sure to pass your message to your guide. For a gluten-free diet, we highly recommend you bring extra foods especially for breakfast as your options for the breakfast will be limited. Meals worth USD 1200-1500 are included on this trip.

Accommodation

Kathmandu:
In Kathmandu, we stay at Kathmandu Guest House, a well-known hotel where many famous celebrities like the Beatles, Ricky Martin, Jeremy Irons and others have stayed. Centrally located in Thamel, the hotel also boasts a beautiful garden where you can relax and enjoy the greenery. Breakfast will be provided in the hotel, and your accommodation will be on a twin-sharing basis, and if you would like to have a single room, upon request, you are required to pay a single supplement price as stated in the trip costing.
Regardless of whether you’re coming back from the mountains or touching base from the airport, come and unwind at the hotel’s beautiful garden, request some fine Italian espresso or a chilled Beer, and escape in the memorable surroundings of Kathmandu’s most adored guesthouse.

On Trek:
Trekking in the Everest region does not need tremendous logistics in accommodation as there are many clean and friendly Lodges along the trail. Rooms are basic, normally just a bed with a pillow and blankets but with a wonderful view from your window. All the teahouses/lodges have a spacious warm dining room lounge. The rooms are fairly basic. Blankets are generally provided by the teahouse but we will provide a warm sleeping bag to everyone. Bathrooms are mostly shared and toilets are western type in most places. We will arrange for you and your group to stay in local lodges daily. Please remember that some of them are very basic and a sense of adventure is necessary.

Tented Accommodation:
Your accommodation will be fully tented camping during the climbing period on Lobuche and Island Peak. A tent will be provided for every 2 climbers. If case of a single by default, then we will provide a single tent without any additional cost.

Single supplement:
A single supplement will be charged if someone wishes to have their own room in Kathmandu. Especially when travelling in a group, we will always pair you with someone of the same sex and similar age to share the room with. If in case of a single by default, then clients don’t have to pay for the single supplement. Please note that on the trek, a single supplement is not available due to limited rooms

Weather

The best seasons for Peak climbing in Nepal are Autumn (from October to the end of November) and Spring (from April to May End). Temperatures will drop considerably as you ascend higher every day. The nights are cold (between 5C to -10C) and the days are sunny and hot (between 10C to 20C). Mornings are usually clear, with clouds building up in the afternoon and disappearing at night. Trekking and climbing during the monsoon seasons and winters are not recommended as the visibility is poor and limited whilst upper parts and high passes could be covered with snow.

April, May, October and November are the favoured months. Please choose a date that is convenient for you.

Training

High-altitude treks and climbs especially in the Himalayas are challenging and require you to be in the top physical, emotional, and psychological condition. The fitter you are, the more enjoyable your trip will be.

Training well ahead in advance is recommended and after you have signed up for the trip, we will send you our training booklet which provides essential information on how best to prepare yourself.

Whilst on the trip before your actual climb, we will conduct a climbing clinic at the base camp where our guides will teach you the required mountaineering skills.

Group Size

Our emphasis is always on maintaining the small group so that it will be easy to coordinate and cooperate with each other. Our group size is small and we only take up to 12 pax in one group. If you opt to join our ‘fixed departure trip’, you are likely to be joining people from different countries of any age group except minors. The size of the group varies, minimum no of persons required to operate the trip is 1 and the maximum is 12 people.

Insurance

It’s mandatory and highly recommended to get travel insurance before embarking on any adventurous trips in Nepal. We advise all our clients to get travel insurance that covers up emergency helicopter evacuation that may be needed in case of the occurrence of AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness) or any other reasons in high altitudes where there are no other means of transportation available. It is advisable to review carefully the insurance and its coverages before making the final decision. Carry proof of your insurance with you on the holiday and leave a copy next to your kin. You must ensure that your insurance provides an adequate level of protection and covers you for the activities involved.

More information: Travel Insurance

Guide

Our Guide/Sherpa crews are critical to the success of the climbs that you do with us. We, professionally trained Sherpa guides & sirdars are just not hikers & climbers on the mountains but have been trained to perform this task with a lot of common sense & guile.

Kunga Sherpa, Everest summiteer and founder of Highland Expeditions, who has successfully guided and organized over 40 expeditions to 8000m as an expedition sirdar oversees our experienced Sherpa crew that will be with you on the climb.

We ensure that they are confident & experienced. Most of our guides were born in these parts & have relatives living in other parts of the regions where they were born in. We know that locally born staffs are a vital cog in that wheel of sometimes dangerous adventure where anything can happen. At Highland Expeditions, we always make sure that our mountain crews are highly motivated & never compromise.

We provide a 1:3 climbing guide-to-client ratio for maximum support during the summit days.

Approach

We begin our trip with a well-paced itinerary to Lobuche peak. Our Lobuche peak itinerary follows the Gokyo route which allows proper acclimatization. After visiting Gokyo and crossing Chola Pass, we reach the high camp of our first objective, Lobuche East peak. We have kept a day for training and refreshment at Dzongla before heading up to Lobuche high camp.

From Lobuche, we visit Everest base camp and Kalapathar and move towards our second objective of the trip, Island peak.

Drinking Water

We provide boiled water for drinking purposes on all our treks and climbs. During mealtime, you can ask your guide to fill the hot water for you. We strongly discourage the use of single-use plastic bottles such as mineral water on all our trips. Carrying a hot water bottle is highly recommended.

Backpack and Baggage

You will only carry your day pack carrying the essential items (Water, Cameras, Extra Fleece, Rain jacket, Sunscreen, Snacks, Valuable Items etc.) that you may need during the walk. The porter will carry the rest of your gear. We provide 1 porter to every 2 participants and we also provide a duffel bag to put your trekking and climbing gear in.

During the summit push, you will only carry the essential items that may be required during the climb. Since we begin our summit push from base camp and retrace back to base camp the same day, you will only carry essential items, leaving everything else at the base camp. There will also be 1 guide for every 3 climbers, who will be glad to assist you if needed.

Safety Measures

Safety is always a priority while travelling with Highland Expeditions. Our itinerary for the Lobuche and Island peak climb has been devised carefully ensuring safety and success.

We carry a supplementary oxygen system and medical kit on our climb be it a group of 1 or 12. Besides, we provide a high staff-to-client ratio on our peak climbing trips.

Trip Style

Our trips are available on both fixed departure and private basis.

If you are looking for a group to join this trip please check our departures section for availability, dates and price. If you would like to travel independently, or with your friends, families & colleagues you are invited to choose any of the trips at your convenient timeframe for any number of people. If you want to do something that is not included in our trip list, we are ready to tailor a trip to suit your exact requirements. In short, we will make every effort to get you on the trip you want, when you want.

Equipment List

The gear listed below is recommended for this kind of trips. We encourage you to get all equipment listed below for the trip and kindly ensure you check and try every equipment. You can also buy or hire the same in Kathmandu as they are available in the many trekking shops from branded to local manufacturers in Kathmandu.

Clothing and Footwear

– Long-sleeved shirts
– T-Shirts
– Trousers
– Warm Jackets/Sweater/Pullover
– Waterproof jackets and trousers
– Thermal
– Inner wears
– Undergarments
– Warm socks
– Warm Hat, Gloves (Down) and Bandana/Scarf
– Extra clothes to wear in Kathmandu when you come back from the trek.
– Trekking shoes (Full)
– Snow Gaiter
– Slippers/Flip flops to wear at camp
– Daypack 30-35 litres (To carry your sunblock, water, camera, waterproof jackets and others that you may require while trekking)

Documents

– Passport with visa and validity of 6 months after your trip completion
– 4 copies of passport size photos for permits and official formalities
– Travel Insurance (Please refer to the general information page for more detail about it)
– Flight tickets
– Credit cards in case of emergencies
– Driving ID or any other ID in case of loss of your passport.

(Please carry the photocopy of all the documents along with you and leave a copy to next of kin)

Others

– Thermarest or similar sleeping mat
– Headlamps with extra batteries
– Sunglasses with UV protection
– Camera with charger or spare batteries
– A pair of trekking poles
– Water bottle one (1) litre
– Laundry bag to keep the dirty clothes
– Large plastic bags to keep the clothes dry
– Padlock
– Binoculars
– Reading materials, notebooks and pens

Toiletries and hygiene

– Quick-drying towel
– Small face towel
– Toothbrush &Toothpaste
– Deodorants, Soap and Shampoo (Smaller bottle)
– Face and body moisturizer, Sunscreen and lip balm
– Hand sanitizer/Antiseptic wipes
– Hygiene products
– Basic first aid kit

The gears listed below will be provided by us for the trek. Down Jacket and Sleeping Bag must be returned after the completion of the trek.

– Down Jacket
– Sleeping bag with liner
– Duffel/Kit Bag
– Group climbing gears

Personal climbing gears:

– Plastic mountaineering boots
– Mountaineering/Climbing Harness
– Helmet
– Ice Axe
– Crampons
– Ascender/Jumar
– Descender/ 8 figure (Rappelling device)
– Screw gate Karabiners (Lock 2/Unlock 2)
– Prusik loop

Which boot is best for peak climbing in Nepal? https://highlandexpeditions.com/best-boots-for-nepal-peak-climbing/

Other Information

Other information such as (Insurance, Arrival Instructions, Visa and Passport etc) required for the trip will be provided after your trip confirmation. Please feel free to get in touch with us if you require more information about the trip.