Kyajo Ri Peak Climbing

Name: Kyajo Ri Peak Climbing
Brand: Highland Expeditions
SKU: HL20775
Price: 4500 USD
Availability: InStock
Rating: 5 (10 reviews)

Summit the least explored and climbed peak

Group Size

Min 1 Max 12

Duration

24 Days

Grade

Strenuous

For seasoned adventurers, these trips are physically demanding and require excellent fitness, endurance, and prior trekking or climbing experience. They involve high altitudes (above 6000m), glacier crossings, and technical elements like using ropes or crampons.

Max. Altitude

6,186m/20,296ft

Activity

Peak Climbing in Nepal

Accomodation

Lodge/Camping

All inclusive cost

From USD 4,500

Durations
24 Days

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Kyajo Ri Peak Climbing Highlights

Build mental toughness and perseverance, which can benefit you beyond the climb.
Enjoy panoramic views from the summit of Kyajo Ri Peak at 6,186m.
Spot local wildlife, such as Himalayan tahr, musk deer, and even snow leopards.
Witness stunning views of the majestic mountains, including Everest, Lhotse, and Makalu.
Experience the Sherpa local culture by touring monasteries and interacting with locals.
Set out on the physical challenge of climbing Kyajo Ri Peak with its steep slopes of high altitude and rocky terrain.
Sleep in tents and stay in teahouses along the way.
Traverse frozen crevasses and dangerous trails for an adrenaline rush.

Kyajo Ri Peak Climbing Overview

Kyajo Ri Peak Climbing offers a distinct experience of climbing a seldom-climbed 6000m trekking peak in Nepal. Climb one of the least explored and climbed trekking peaks with qualified guides, followed by a better itinerary allowing proper acclimatization and a climbing schedule. Standing tall at 6,186m/20,296ft, Kyajo Ri Peak is a semi-technical 6000m peak between Thame and Gokyo valley. Less popular and unclimbed than the neighbouring peaks, Kyajo Ri provides the thrill of climbing a 6000m peak in a pure expedition style.

Kyajo Ri opened for climbing in 2002 and was first climbed by a Franco-British team. The main climbing route, the Commercial Kyajo Ri route, is along the southwest ridge. The Southeast Ridge is more difficult and can also be accessed from the northeast face. To increase our chances of reaching the summit, our climbing plan includes an acclimatization trek to Everest Base Camp, Gokyo Lakes Trek, an ascent of Gokyo Ri (5,357m/17,575ft), and a trek over Renjo La Pass (5,340m/17,520ft). We will leave the main trail from Namche and walk past Dole and Machhermo to reach the Gokyo valley. After crossing the challenging Renjo La High Pass, we will head to Kyajo Ri Base Camp via Thame and Mende.

Kyajo Ri Climbing Route

The normal route for Kyajo Ri Peak Climb is from the south face. This climbing route has fewer hazards, such as rockfall or avalanche, than other routes. The climb involves mixed climbing of rock, snow, and ice on steep pitches in a few sections. The Kyajo Ri summit route is often compared with Ama Dablam's due to its mixed climbing nature. There will be 2 camps above Base Camp before we reach the summit. Camp I will be at 5,350m while Camp II will be at 5,700m altitude.

Our actual climb begins after our final preparation at the base camp. From the base camp to Camp 1, it’s a long and non-technical walk on rough terrain. The climb to Camp 2 involves scree and boulders, although it is a short distance from Camp 1. From camp 2 to the summit of Kyajo Ri, it’s 12 pitches of snow and ice, with 2 steep pitches of a 60% gradient just below the summit.

When you arrive at Tribhuvan International Airport in Nepal, first complete your visa requirements and pick up your luggage. Then, go to the exit of the arrival hall. Our personnel will wait for you just outside the arrival hall and take you to your hotel in Kathmandu. After picking you up, they will take you to your designated hotel and help you get checked in.

Accommodation:

Hotel

Max Elevation:

1,350m/4,430ft

After your first night in Kathmandu, you will be well informed on arrival about the time for your exploration tour in Kathmandu, which includes Bouddhanath stupa and Pashupatinath temple. However, sometimes, depending on your flight arrival, if it’s too late into the night we will do this tour in the afternoon instead of morning to give you some sleep and rest so that you can get rid of that jetlag before you venture out of the Hotel for our interesting tour. In the evening, you will be briefed by your trek and climb leader about your trekking program the next day. In case you have fallen short of any trek and climb equipment that you may need, this time can be used to arrange for it.

Meals:

Breakfast

Accommodation:

Hotel

Max Elevation:

1,350m/4,430ft

In the morning, you’ll be transferred to Tribhuvan Airport for a 30-minute flight to Tenzing Hillary Airport in Lukla, offering stunning views of snow-capped peaks. Upon arrival, you’ll meet the crew and have breakfast at a lodge. After the porters prepare your luggage, the trek begins on a stone pathway. You’ll encounter a straight trail adorned with Mani rocks and enjoy views of Lukla village before reaching Phakding. After a refreshment, there’s a chance for a short walk to a nearby village or a local monastery, if time allows. Return to the lodge in Phakding for dinner and a briefing for the next day’s trek. Overnight stay in the lodge.

Meals:

Breakfast,Lunch,Dinner

Accommodation:

Teahouse/Lodge

Duration:

3-4 hrs

Max Elevation:

2,600m/8,531ft

We will continue our journey along Dudhkoshi River which will take us through pine forest. After crossing suspension bridges at several points and passing through small settlements of Zapute, Toktok, Benkar and Chumoa, we will reach Monjo. This is known as the gateway to the Sagarmatha National Park. Lowering down from the park, we will arrive at river. Crossing another suspension bridge, we will proceed towards high Hillary Bridge located at the foot of the hill. Crossing this bridge, we will climb uphill to the Namche Bazaar. We can get view of Thamserku Mountain. If weather is clear, we can also have first view of Mt. Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse and Kusum Khangru mountains. We will stay overnight in a lodge in Namche Bazaar.

Meals:

Breakfast,Lunch,Dinner

Accommodation:

Teahouse/Lodge

Max Elevation:

3,450m/11,319ft

Namche Bazaar is regarded as gateway to the high Himalayas. It is also the main trading center and a capital of Sherpa land. Rest is recommended in Namche for acclimatization purpose. Short hike will be arranged to the ancient Sherpa village of Thame to observe the rich Sherpa culture. We can also visit nearby Khumjung, Khunde or Khongde villages. Shopping in marketplace of Namche is another fine idea. National Park Head office, Museum and monasteries are other places of interest. The area is clustered with cafes, shops, bakeries and restaurants. The place supports facilities of post office, hospital, government health post. Internet access is also available at Namche so that you can contact your near ones. Overnight stay in a lodge in Namche Bazaar.

Meals:

Breakfast,Lunch,Dinner

Accommodation:

Teahouse/Lodge

Duration:

4-5 hrs

Max Elevation:

3,450m/11,319ft

Leaving Namche, we will take four hours of trek to Dole. We will follow classic path to Everest Base Camp till Sanasa from where we will climb uphill to Mongla (4000m) that greets us with breathtaking views of mountains. We will cross Phortse Tenga and climb to
Dole via rhododendron forest. Trekking route to Gokyo Lake and Renjo La Pass trek route intersects at Sanasa. Stay overnight in Dole.

Meals:

Breakfast,Lunch,Dinner

Accommodation:

Teahouse/Lodge

Duration:

6-7 hrs

Max Elevation:

4,040m/13,255ft

We will leave our camp in Dole early in the morning and follow the ascending trail along valley, passing through the juniper forest. We will pass the summer settlement area where we can see yaks grazing on the lush green vegetation. We will enjoy the panoramic views of Cho Oyu Mountain, Kantega Peak and Thamserku Mountain from our campsite. Stay overnight in Machhermo.

Meals:

Breakfast,Lunch,Dinner

Accommodation:

Teahouse/Lodge

Duration:

3-4 hrs

Max Elevation:

4,470m/14,665ft

We will leave Machhermo and pursue the picturesque path to Pangka. Lowering down from Pangka, we will follow the river that flows to the west of Nepal’s largest Ngozumpa glacial system for brief periods before climbing through the rocky area to reach the holy lake. Moving along the glacier to Cho La (5420m), we will reach second lake. Brief walk from the second lake will take us to the third lake known as Dudhpokhari. Gokyo is located on the eastern edge of Dudhpokhari. Stay overnight in Gokyo.

Meals:

Breakfast,Lunch,Dinner

Accommodation:

Teahouse/Lodge

Duration:

5-6 hrs

Max Elevation:

4,800m/15,750ft

This is a rest day which helps us to reduce the stress level. It will also help in proper acclimatization to the changing altitude. Lodges are available in Gokyo. Gokyo Ri and Fifth Lake are the places of interest in Gokyo. Gokyo Ri is in fact one of the best view points in Everest. We will return to our campsite in Gokyo for overnight stay.

Meals:

Breakfast,Lunch,Dinner

Accommodation:

Teahouse/Lodge

Duration:

6-7 hrs

Max Elevation:

5,357m/17,575ft

Leaving Gokyo early in the morning, we will enter valley and take uphill climb through ice and rock spur to the foot of Renjo La Pass. Climbing Renjo La is a challenging task. 3-4 hrs of difficult climb will take us to the top of Renjo La pass. The summit of Renjo La (5435m) offers one of the finest views in Solukhumbu. We will enjoy the views of Cho Oyu, Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, Makalu, Cholaste, Tabuche peak and other peaks and mountains from Renjola. Lowering down from the pass, we will follow stone steps to reach glacial lake. Walking through the path along glacial lake, we will reach small settlement of Lungden.

Meals:

Breakfast,Lunch,Dinner

Accommodation:

Teahouse/Lodge

Duration:

8-9 hrs

Max Elevation:

5,340m/17,520ft

After early breakfast in Lungden (4500m), we will follow the path along ancient and walled Sherpa villages. The region is rich in Himalayan wildlife like yak and deer. Following the traditional trade route in between Nepal and Tibet, we will reach Thame. Tibetans cross Nagpa La Pass to make it to Namche Bazaar. We will stay overnight in Thame.

Meals:

Breakfast,Lunch,Dinner

Accommodation:

Teahouse/Lodge

Duration:

4-5 hrs

Max Elevation:

3,800m/12,468ft

After enjoying a substantial breakfast in Thame, we wander towards the sweet village of Mende. This section of the walk has diverse foliage, including limited patches of rhododendron forests. This walk section consists of rolling hill climbs and descents through the valley, while taking in the fantastic views of Thamserku, Kangtega, and other peaks. Be on the lookout for elevations of wildlife, including yaks and dzo. Mende has a cozy feel and is a much more personal experience than the larger villages on the Everest Base Camp trek. When we arrive, we will settle into our teahouse to relax and acclimatize before heading to Kyajo Ri B.C. tomorrow morning. We will have the afternoon to explore the village and interact with locals, and we hope to eat dinner and prepare for the next day.

Meals:

Breakfast,Lunch,Dinner

Accommodation:

Fully tented camping

Duration:

5-6 hrs

Max Elevation:

3,740m/12,271ft

This is a relatively easy path. We will leave Mende and follow the narrow yak trail to the pass. Crossing the pass, we will reach Kyajo Drangka valley that exists to the south of Kyajo Ri. The path is scenic with views of Thamserku, Kusum Kangaru, Pacharmo and other peaks and mountains. We will arrive at the flat surface near river where we will set our camp and stay overnight.

Meals:

Breakfast,Lunch,Dinner

Accommodation:

Fully Tented Camping

Duration:

4-5 hrs

Max Elevation:

4,550m/14,928ft

We will take rest at Base Camp and prepare ourselves for the challenges of Kyajo Ri. You will receive instructions on Peak climbing techniques. You will also be taught how to use the climbing gears like ice axe, crampons, harness and ascender properly. You will be made aware about the things that you should do should you get trapped in difficult situation.

Meals:

Breakfast,Lunch,Dinner

Accommodation:

Fully Tented Camping

Max Elevation:

4,550m/14,928ft

After a day of rest and few hours of practice on previous day, we will aim to reach Camp1 on this day. Our journey continues through grassy spur from where we will climb the rocky section through boulders and pebbles to reach Camp1. We will find the flat area for our Camp 1. Our camp site is scenic with panoramic views of surrounding mountains. Stay overnight in Camp 1.

Meals:

Breakfast,Lunch,Dinner

Accommodation:

Fully Tented Camping

Duration:

4-5 hrs

Max Elevation:

5,300m/17,389ft

Today, we will do technical climbing on mixed face slopes up to 55 degrees steep and cross a glacier. Camp II is located near the glacier and has enough space for us to set up our tents. From the camp, we can see the climbing route we will take tomorrow. We will pitch our camp by a large glacier lake. If the weather is good, we will have plenty of sunlight during the day. We will stay overnight at Camp II. If the weather cooperates, we expect to enjoy plenty of sun during the day, which can boost morale and help dry out any wet gear. After a day of rigorous activity, we’ll rest overnight at Camp II, ensuring we’re well-rested for the future challenges.

Meals:

Breakfast,Lunch,Dinner

Accommodation:

Fully Tented Camping

Duration:

4-5 hrs

Max Elevation:

5,700m/18,701ft

This is going to be a long and tiring day but the views and experience make our trek rewarding. We will start the trek early in the morning before sunrise. After hurried breakfast, we will move through boulders and glacier and arrive at Southwestern ridge. We will climb through snow and ice and small rock section to Kyajo Ri summit. We will spend some time on summit for photo shooting and then we will lower down to Camp 2 where we will stay overnight.

Meals:

Breakfast,Lunch,Dinner

Accommodation:

Fully Tented Camping

Duration:

7-8 hrs

Max Elevation:

6,186m/20,296ft

This is a free day which has been allocated in itinerary to ensure that our schedule will go on smoothly without interruption even if their occur complications during climbing peaks. The successful adventure depends on multiple factors like weather condition and fitness of our fellow crew members. In such case, the contingency day will be useful for sticking up to the plan.

Meals:

Breakfast,Lunch,Dinner

Accommodation:

Fully Tented Camping

It is time to head back to Kyajo Ri Base Camp and celebrate the success of our journey. The trek back should be easier since we already know what to expect. When we return, we can relax and potentially explore the area, if desired. We can take some time to think about our journey and relay stories. It is remarkable to think about some of the challenges we faced and overcame as a group. If we are fortunate enough to have the weather, perhaps we can enjoy the mountains as a final experience. For those who want to explore, there may be an opportunity to hike a short distance to a nearby viewpoint and gain a different perspective on the stunning views. Ultimately, it will be a time to celebrate and enjoy the experience together.

Meals:

Breakfast,Lunch,Dinner

Accommodation:

Fully Tented Camping

Duration:

4-5 hrs

Max Elevation:

4,550m/14,928ft

Leaving Kyajo Ri Base Camp, we will make return trip back to Namche Bazaar. The path is easy where we will be pursuing the descending trail for most part of the trek. We will pass through rhododendron forest and small Sherpa settlements to Namche where we will stay overnight.

Meals:

Breakfast,Lunch,Dinner

Accommodation:

Fully Tented Camping

Duration:

5-6 hrs

Max Elevation:

3,450m/11,319ft

We will take the downhill walk from Namche that leads us to the bridge over Dudh Koshi River. Moving further, we will arrive at Monjo where we need to fulfill the official formalities at the check post of Sagarmatha National Park. We will retrace the route back to Phakding where we will take lunch before moving to Lukla. The trail is easy and colorful marked by prayer stones and prayer flags. We will stay overnight in a lodge in Lukla. Later we celebrate our successful completion of trek with our Sherpa guides and porters who we’ve got to know so well & are now good friends.

Meals:

Breakfast,Lunch,Dinner

Accommodation:

Teahouse/Lodge

Duration:

5-6 hrs

Max Elevation:

2,800m/9187ft

We get up early in the morning, enjoy our b/fast & get ready for the arrival of our aircraft for the flight back to Kathmandu. On our touchdown at the Kathmandu airport, we will be met by our office reps and transferred to your hotel. Rest of your day is free to do your own things.

Meals:

Breakfast

Accommodation:

Hotel

Max Elevation:

1,350m/4,430ft

Enjoy a leisure day. You are on your own. Participating in a day tour in Kathmandu is a pleasant plan. You can also go for shopping in Thamel, a tourist hub where you can buy souvenir items like handicrafts and arts to your family. At eventide, we will relish a farewell dinner to celebrate our successful climb. While enjoying our supper, we will also be entertained to a scintillating cultural dance performed by the local belles
Please do not hesitate to let us know if you would like to extend your stay. Kindly email us for more details on extensions.

Meals:

Breakfast,Dinner

Accommodation:

Hotel

Max Elevation:

1,350m/4,430ft

Finally, the undeniable day of departure arrives. Thank you for joining us on this climb and it has been a pleasure getting to know you during this time. We hope this venture has enriched your experience with happy memories. You will be assisted in your last minute preparation. Our representative will take you to Tribhuvan International Airport three hours before your scheduled flight. Keep in touch and hope to hear from you soon. Bon voyage for a safe and pleasant trip home.

Meals:

Breakfast

Accommodation:

Hotel

Your safety is of imperative concern while traveling with Highland Expeditions. Please take care to note that your leader/guide has the authority to amend or cancel any part of the itinerary if it is deemed necessary due to your safety concerns. Every effort will be made to keep to the above itinerary; however, since this adventure entails traveling in remote mountainous regions, we cannot guarantee that we will not deviate from it. Weather, health condition of a group member, unexpected natural disasters, etc., can all contribute to changes in the itinerary. Your leader/guide will try to ensure that the trip runs according to plan, but please be prepared to be flexible if required.

Availability

Our trips are available as both group departures and private experiences.

If you’re looking to join a group, simply click the Dates & Prices tab to view available dates, pricing, and current availability. The trip prices may increase or decrease based on availability and demand. All group departures are guaranteed to run once a booking is confirmed. If you prefer a private trip with your friends, family, or colleagues, visit the Private Trips tab and fill out the contact form. We’ll tailor the trip to your preferred dates and accommodate any special requests you may have.

Note for solo travelers: Some of our trips (see Group Size details) require a minimum of two participants to confirm the departure. If you’re booking as a solo participant, please contact us before making a booking to check availability for those departures.

Have a big group? We’re here to assist! Contact us to discuss availability and group pricing options.

Ready to create your perfect adventure? Please fill out the form below to share your preferences. We’ll get back to you with a customized trip designed around your goals, interests, and schedule. Let us handle the details — your journey, your way.

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Fully guided climb with experienced climbing guides on a 1:3 ratio (Guide to client ratio)
Meals and Accommodation at Tea Houses/Lodges during the trekking period
Meals and High-quality mountain tents for the climbing period
Kyajo Ri Peak permit with garbage deposit.
National Park Fees
KTM-LUKLA-KTM Airfare
Double Twin sharing accommodation at Kathmandu guest house or similar category for 4 nights with breakfast
Kathmandu airport transfers and escorts
Comprehensive first aid kit with supplementary oxygen system
Personal/Group climbing gear
Porterage of equipment required during trekking and climbing
Waterproof Duffel bag, Sleeping bag, and Down Jacket (Sleeping bag and down jacket must be returned after completion of the trek)
Peak climbing certificate issued by the Nepal Mountaineering Association
Staff summit bonus, insurances, and allowances

International airfare, Visa and travel insurance
Personal climbing gears
Meals at Kathmandu
Extra night accommodation in Kathmandu or on trek for any reason (Early arrival or delay, Early arrival from trek due to any reason)
Personal expenses and tips

1. What are the highest vantage points of Kyajo Ri Climb?

The Kyajo Ri Climb provides stunning, sweeping views, especially from the summit at 6,186 meters. The views from the top include the whole Khumbu Himal range, including the three highest mountains in the world, Mount Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, and Cho Oyu. The route to Base Camp and other views around Camp I and Camp II also provide spectacular views, particularly the views of the Gokyo and Thame valleys.

2. How difficult is the Kyajo Ri climb, and what level of experience is required?

Climbing Kyajo Ri is considered a technically demanding undertaking, typically graded as PD+ or AD- according to the alpine difficulty scale. It involves glacier travel, steep snow and ice slopes, and potentially some rock scrambling, often requiring the use of fixed ropes. Therefore, it is strongly recommended for individuals with prior mountaineering experience, including proficiency in using ice axes, crampons, ropes, and other technical equipment.

3. How long does a typical Kyajo Ri expedition take?

A standard Kyajo Ri expedition typically spans between 12 and 16 days, depending on the itinerary and the trekking route chosen to reach base camp. This duration includes several days of trekking to and from the mountain, acclimatization days strategically placed to help your body adjust to the increasing altitude, the actual climbing days, and contingency days for potential delays.

4. What is the accommodation like during the Kyajo Ri expedition?

During the trekking portion of the expedition, accommodation is typically in teahouses, which are basic guesthouses offering simple rooms with beds and blankets. At base camp, you will be accommodated in tents, usually shared between two people. These tents are designed to withstand the mountain conditions. Meals are generally provided in a communal dining tent at base camp and in teahouse dining rooms during the trek.

5. How important is acclimatization for climbing Kyajo Ri?

Acclimatization is absolutely paramount for a safe and successful ascent of Kyajo Ri. The itinerary will include several acclimatization days at different altitudes to allow your body to adjust to the reduced oxygen levels gradually. Ignoring acclimatization guidelines can lead to serious altitude-related illnesses such as Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS), High Altitude Pulmonary Edema (HAPE), or High Altitude Cerebral Edema (HACE), which can be life-threatening.

6. What are the potential risks and challenges of climbing Kyajo Ri?

Like any high-mountain expedition, climbing Kyajo Ri involves risks, including altitude sickness, weather, hazards while traveling on glaciers (crevasses), continuing falling (preferably off a steep slope), and potential for rockfall or avalanche. There could also be a risk of extreme fatigue and unforeseen events or conditions. You should understand these risks and follow your guide’s instructions carefully.

7. What level of physical fitness is required to climb Kyajo Ri?

A very high level of physical fitness is essential for climbing Kyajo Ri. You should be comfortable with strenuous multi-day trekking, carrying a loaded backpack, and enduring long hours of physical exertion at high altitudes. Prior training should include cardiovascular exercises, strength training, and ideally some experience with hiking or climbing at lower altitudes to build endurance.

8. Is travel insurance necessary for a Kyajo Ri climb?

Yes, comprehensive travel insurance that specifically covers mountaineering activities up to the altitude of Kyajo Ri is absolutely essential. Your insurance policy should include coverage for medical expenses, emergency evacuation (including helicopter rescue, which can be very costly in the Himalayas), trip cancellation or interruption, and loss or damage to your personal belongings. Ensure you understand the limitations and exclusions of your policy.

9. How do I get to the base camp of Kyajo Ri?

The journey to Kyajo Ri base camp typically involves flying from Kathmandu to Lukla, the gateway to the Everest region. From Lukla, you will embark on a multi-day trek through Sherpa villages, following trails that gradually ascend through beautiful valleys and landscapes.

10. What can I expect regarding scenery and cultural experiences during the Kyajo Ri expedition?

The Kyajo Ri trek features breathtaking landscapes and close-up vistas of some of the world’s highest mountains. You will trek past many beautiful Sherpa villages, experience the unique culture and hospitality of the local people, and see stunning Buddhist monasteries and prayer wheels.

Grading: 7-8 (Strenuous)

Kyajo Ri, standing tall at 6,186m peak is considered technical mountain due to its steep mixed terrain. The climb to the summit of Kyajo Ri is a combination of Ice, Snow and Rock. Its technical mountain but without extreme and requires basic knowledge of rock climbing, roped travel, crampon techniques and ice axe arrest. The route consists of steep ascents climbing 50 degrees to 55-degree slope of snow and ice and you should be confident in walking with a crampon, using abseiling and ascending devices, able to walk together in the same rope. This peak requires more experience as compared to other trekking peaks in Nepal (Mera, Island or Lobuche east) also due to its less popularity.

To partake in Kyajo Ri Climb, an excellent physical level is required as this trip involves a longer duration of trek/climb. Previous experience of high altitude treks and climbing smaller peaks is of great advantage while climbing a semi-technical 6000m peak like Kyajo Ri. One must have a basic knowledge of rock climbing, roped travel, crampon techniques and ice axe arrest. You should be both mentally and physically prepared for this trip. A fierce determination, burning desire and teamwork is required. We have allowed ample time for acclimatization and contingency day on our itinerary and there will also be a climbing course at the base camp where your guide will teach you the proper way to use the equipment.

Our Kyajo Ri Climb Itinerary consists of a total of 25 days with 21 days in the mountains. Our climb begins with a trek to Gokyo Region at first, where we will climb Gokyo Ri (5,357m/17,575ft) as a part of our acclimatization. From here, we cross Renjo La Pass (5,340m/17,520ft) and enter the Thame valley. After our acclimatization trek, we reach Kyajo ri base camp from where our actual climb begins. We have allowed ample days for the climbing period and we also have a contingency day just so if anything goes unplanned. We will follow the southwest ridge to the summit.

The best seasons to climb Kyajo Ri are spring (March to May) and autumn (September to November). These periods offer the most favorable weather conditions for mountaineering in the Everest region of Nepal. The best seasons to climb Kyajo Ri are spring (March to May) and autumn (September to November). These periods offer the most favorable weather conditions for mountaineering in the Everest region of Nepal. The weather is generally stable during the spring, with mild temperatures, clear skies, and longer daylight hours.

The condition makes for comfortable climbing conditions and provides excellent views of the surrounding Himalayan peaks as the snow melts and the landscapes become vibrant. Similarly, autumn also boasts stable and dry weather with clear skies, offering excellent visibility. The temperatures are cooler than in spring but still pleasant for climbing. The autumn foliage adds a different kind of scenic beauty to the trek and climb.

While it is possible to climb Kyajo Ri in the winter (December to February), it is significantly more challenging due to harsh weather conditions, including freezing temperatures and heavy snowfall. Climbing during the monsoon season (June to August) is generally not recommended due to heavy rainfall, which makes trails slippery and obscures mountain views. Therefore, spring and autumn are the prime times to plan your ascent of Kyajo Ri for the safest and most enjoyable experience, with good weather and stunning views.

During your challenging ascent of Kyajo Ri Peak, Highland Expeditions prioritizes your safety and success by implementing a focused guide-to-client ratio. Specifically, on your summit push day, you will be supported by a dedicated team maintaining a 1:3 guide-to-client ratio. This means for every three climbers, there will be one highly experienced lead guide accompanied by an additional Sherpa guide. This robust support system isn’t just about numbers; it’s a strategic deployment of expertise to ensure close supervision, personalized assistance, and swift response to any unforeseen circumstances that can arise in the demanding high-altitude environment.

This carefully considered ratio reflects Highland Expeditions’ commitment to going beyond generic safety measures. Overseen by seasoned mountaineer Kunga Sherpa, their Sherpa guides are not merely escorts but are deeply familiar with the terrain, possessing invaluable local knowledge and intuitive mountain sense honed through years of experience in these very landscapes. This intimate connection to the region, often stemming from being born and raised in the area, allows them to anticipate challenges and navigate the mountain with a level of proficiency that significantly enhances your safety and overall climbing experience.

Training for Kyajo Ri, a 6,186-meter peak in the Everest region, demands a strong foundation in both physical fitness and technical mountaineering skills. Given its semi-technical nature involving rock and ice climbing, prior experience on 4,000m or 6,000m peaks is highly recommended to ensure comfort and safety on the mountain. Physical conditioning should focus on cardiovascular endurance, strength training to manage steep terrain and carry a loaded backpack (around 15 kg), and acclimatization exercises to prepare for the high altitude environment.

To simulate the demands of the climb, incorporate uphill hiking with a weighted backpack into your training regimen at least once a week. If access to mountains or high hills is limited, utilize stairs for ascending and descending exercises. For the technical aspects, familiarity with mountaineering gear such as crampons, ice axes, harnesses, and ropes is essential. If you lack prior experience with these tools, consider seeking basic training from experienced guides, which some expeditions offer during acclimatization days.

Yes, we provide unlimited boiled water for the drinking purpose on all our treks and climbs. During meals time, you can ask the boys to fill the hot water for you. We recommend you to bring at least 2 hot water bottles to make sure you have enough water during the walk. We strongly discourage the use of single-use plastic bottles such as mineral water on all our trips. Also trekkers are recommended they don’t drink water directly from water tap, pump handles, instead use water purification tablets, or use teahouses for boiling water which you can drink

For the Kyajo Ri Peak climb, water availability will depend on where the camps are located and the time of year. For instance, at base camp and lower camps, the trekkers will be able to get boiled water. However, camps at higher elevations may run into limited sources where snow and ice may become the only water sources for drinking water. This process may be time-consuming, so your patience and understanding in this regard is greatly appreciated. The trekkers will assure the team is working to provide you with drinking throughout the climb, but it is important for them to conserve as much water as possible, especially during the summit push, and manage your water allocation. We will also share how to hydrate adequately at high altitude, reducing the possible risks of altitude sickness.

Our emphasis is always on maintaining the small group so that it will be easy to coordinate and cooperate with each other. Our group size is small and we only take up to 12 pax in one group. If you opt to join our ‘fixed departure trip’, you are likely to be joining people from different countries of any age group except minors. The size of the group varies, minimum no of persons required to operate the trip is 1 and the maximum is 12 people.

It’s mandatory and highly recommended to get travel insurance before embarking on any adventurous trips in Nepal. We advise all our clients to get travel insurance that covers up emergency helicopter evacuation that may be needed in case of the occurrence of AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness) or any other reasons in high altitudes where there are no other means of transportation available.

It is advisable to review carefully the insurance and its coverages before making the final decision. Carry proof of your insurance with you on the holiday and leave a copy next to your kin. You must ensure that your insurance provides an adequate level of protection and covers you for the activities involved.

Safety is always a priority while travelling with Highland Expeditions. Our itinerary for Kyajo ri climb has been devised carefully ensuring safety and success. Our Kyajo Ri itinerary combines trek to Gokyo lakes as a part of the acclimatization process to maximise our summit chances. We also carry supplementary oxygen system for the emergency purpose and medical kit be it a group of 1 or 12. Each group will be led by qualified guides and we provide high staff to client ratio on our peak climbing trips.

Daily wake up calls will be between 6.00 am to 7.00 am while on the trek. The wake-up time and breakfast time will be decided a night before during the briefing time. The time table for each day will entirely depend on your walking duration for that particular day. After a hearty breakfast, we set off on the day’s walk. Before breakfast, you are required to pack your duffel bag as it will be loaded by the porter while you are having your breakfast.

After 3-4 hours of walk, we stop for lunch mid-day. The afternoon’s walk is generally shorter and we usually arrive at our destination in time for afternoon tea. The rest of the afternoon can be spent exploring the village, to wash your clothes or simply relaxing with a good book. On some days, we will arrive at our destination by lunchtime and the entire afternoon will be free. After dinner, the evening will often be spent playing cards and reliving the day’s adventures, before heading off to bed for a well-earned sleep.

Trekking Gear:

Trekking shoes (Full)
Snow Gaiter
Slippers/Flip flops to wear at camp
Daypack 30-35 litres
Thermarest or similar sleeping mat
Headlamps with extra batteries
Sunglasses with UV protection
A pair of trekking poles
Water bottle one (1) litre
Laundry bag to keep the dirty clothes
Large plastic bags to keep the clothes dry
Binoculars

Clothing:

Long-sleeved shirts
T-Shirts
Trousers
Warm Jackets/Sweater/Pullover
Waterproof jackets and trousers
Thermal
Inner wears
Undergarments
Warm socks
Warm Hat, Gloves (Down) and Bandana/Scarf
Extra clothes to wear in Kathmandu when you come back from the trek

Climbing Gear:

Plastic mountaineering boots
Mountaineering/Climbing Harness
Helmet
Ice Axe
Crampons
Ascender/Jumar
Descender/ 8 figure (Rappelling device)
Screw gate Karabiners (Lock 2/Unlock 2)
Prusik loop

Medicines (Basic First Aid Kit):

Basic first aid kit

Other Items:

Passport with visa and validity of 6 months after your trip completion
4 copies of passport size photos for permits and official formalities
Travel Insurance (Please refer to the general information page for more detail about it)
Flight tickets
Credit cards in case of emergencies
Driving ID or any other ID in case of loss of your passport.
(Please carry the photocopy of all the documents along with you and leave a copy to next of kin)
Camera with charger or spare batteries
Padlock
Reading materials, notebooks and pens
Quick-drying towel
Small face towel
Toothbrush &Toothpaste
Deodorants, Soap and Shampoo (Smaller bottle)
Face and body moisturizer, Sunscreen and lip balm
Hand sanitizer/Antiseptic wipes
Hygiene products

Kyajo Ri is an underrated peak climbing trek that takes you to the lap of the Himalayas and rewards you with stunning views of the mountains. One of the main things you must expect during this climb is that it is hard, and trekkers need decent physical fitness. You will encounter unforgiving slopes, rocky trails, and high altitudes, taxing your body.

Stunning adjacent peaks such as Everest, Lhotse, and Makalu will appear as you move upwards. You will also enjoy the spectacular sights of the Khumbu region, including glacial lakes, valleys, and forests. You will pass through Sherpa villages, where you can engage with the culture and traditions of the local people. You will have the opportunity to visit monasteries, meet locals, and learn about their lives. Expect excitement throughout the trek from our required icy crevasse inching and climbing the rugged terrain.

Kyajo Ri is among the trekking peaks in the Everest region alongside Mera Peak and Island Peak. However, it is also among the least explored peaks. The peak is quite prominent in the Everest region, standing at 6,186 meters in the Mahalangur Range. Located north of Namche Bazaar, it separates the Thame Valley and Gokyo Valley, extending towards Cho Oyu. Though less frequently climbed, it offers a stunning base camp in the secluded Kyajo Drangka valley, accessible after a hike from Mende, 4 km from Namche. The climb is technically challenging, akin to Ama Dablam, but requires less acclimatization due to its height. The southern route benefits from ample sunlight and has minimal risks like rockfall.

The history of Kyajo Ri is quite interesting. The peak officially opened for climbing in 2002, under the Nepalese Ministry of Tourism. The first ascent happened that same year by a British and French team using the Southwest Ridge route. This route has become the standard method for climbing Kyajo Ri. There are also more challenging routes, like the Southeast Ridge. Kyajo Ri is a less crowded option than other popular trekking peaks in the area. It offers a more remote and technical climbing experience, with beautiful views of nearby high peaks, including Everest, Lhotse, and Makalu.

Before planning their trip, trekkers must obtain several permits, including a Climbing permit, a Sagarmatha National Park entry permit, and a Khumbu Municipality Permit, to climb Kyajo Ri Peak.

Peak Climb Permit

One key permit is the climbing permit, which you can obtain from the Nepal Mountaineering Association. The cost of this permit varies by season. Spring (March to May) usually has the highest fee, followed by fall (September to November). Winter and summer have the lowest fees. Knowing that these permit fees help manage and protect the climbing areas is important. The cost of the Peak Climbing permit is:

Approximately $250 per person for the Spring season
Roughly $125 per person for the Autumn season
Approximately $70 per person during the Winter/Summer season

Sagarmatha National Park Permit

The Sagarmatha National Park entry permit is required for all foreign nationals (excluding children under 10) to access the protected area around Mount Everest. Permits can be obtained at the Nepal Tourism Board in Kathmandu or the park entry gate in Monjo. The permit costs of the Sagarmatha entry permit are:

NPR 3,000 for foreign nationals
NPR 1,500 for SAARC nationals,

When applying, it’s recommended that you carry your passport, a photocopy, and passport-sized photos.

Khumbu Municipality Permit

The Khumbu Municipality entry permit, also known as the Khumbu Pasang Lhamu Rural Municipality Entrance Permit, is required for all trekkers and visitors to the Khumbu region of Nepal, including the Everest Base Camp trek. This permit aims to support local development and tourism regulation, replacing the TIMS card for this area. Funds from the permit are used for community welfare, waste management, and conservation. Trekkers can obtain the permit at the Lukla checkpoint for those flying in, or at the Sagarmatha National Park counter in Monjo for those trekking from Jiri or Salleri. It cannot be obtained in Kathmandu.

Cost

The cost is NPR 2,000 per person for the first four weeks, increasing to NPR 2,500 thereafter. This fee applies to all foreign nationals, including SAARC countries, and payment must be made in Nepalese rupees.

Choose Highland Expeditions for your Kyajo Ri climb because your safety and our top-tier service are paramount. Benefit from meticulously planned logistics, small, well-coordinated groups, and guidance from highly experienced professional climbers. On summit day, enjoy an exceptional 1:3 guide-to-client ratio for maximum support. With over 30 years of high-altitude expedition expertise, we deliver unparalleled professionalism and meticulous care for all your needs, ensuring a successful and safe ascent.

At Highland Expeditions, we ensure your journey goes well beyond the climb. We provide full support from when you arrive in Nepal until your last day. We take care of all the logistics from your permits and paperwork to your comfortable accommodation in Kathmandu and on the trek to base camp. We provide healthy, tasty meals throughout your journey. You will have support staff on your trek to make sure that all of the logistics of camp run seamlessly, which allows you to focus on the challenge and the amazing surroundings. We are committed to supporting sustainable and responsible tourism in a socially conscious manner and respecting local culture and the environment while ensuring that your journey with us is fulfilling and ethical.