- One of the least explored and climbed Peak
- Semi-Technical trekking peak with mixed climbing
- Gokyo Ri and Renjo La for acclimatization
- Climb 6000m peak in a pure expedition-style
Kyajo Ri Peak Climbing offers a distinct experience of climbing a 6000m trekking peak in Nepal that is seldom climbed. Climb one of the least explored and climbed trekking peaks with qualified guides, followed by a better itinerary allowing proper acclimatization and climbing schedule.
Standing tall at 6,186m/20,296ft, Kyajo Ri Peak is a semi-technical 6000m peak located in between Thame and Gokyo valley. Less popular and unclimbed as compared to the neighbouring peaks, Kyajo Ri provides a thrill of climbing a 6000m peak in a pure expedition style.
Opened to climbing in 2002, Kyajo Ri was climbed for the first time by Franco/ British team. The Commercial Kyajo Ri climbing route is through the southwest ridge. The Southeast Ridge is more challenging while it can also be attempted from the northeast face.
In order to maximize the summit chances, our Kyajo Ri peak climbing itinerary includes an acclimatization trek to Gokyo, an ascent of Gokyo Ri (5,357m/17,575ft) and a trek over Renjo la Pass (5,340m/17,520ft). We will leave the main trail from Namche and walk past Dole and Machhermo to Gokyo valley. Crossing the challenging Renjola High Pass, we will move to Kyajo Ri Base Camp via Thame and Mende.
Kyajo Ri Climbing Route
The normal route for Kyajo Ri Peak Climb is from the south face. This climbing route has fewer hazards such as rockfall or avalanche as compared to other routes. The climb involves mixed climbing of rock, snow, and ice on steep pitches in a few sections. Kyajo Ri summit route is often compared with that of Ama Dablam due to its mixed climbing nature. There will be 2 camps above Base Camp before we reach the summit. Camp I will be at 5,350m while Camp II will be at 5,700m altitude.
Our actual climb begins after our final preparation at the base camp. From the base camp to Camp 1, it’s a long and non-technical walk on rough terrain. The climb to camp 2 involves scree and boulders although it is a short distance from Camp 1. From camp 2 to the summit of Kyajo Ri it’s 12 pitches of snow and ice with 2 steep pitches of 60% gradient just below the summit.
Why climb with us?
At Highland Expeditions we always believe in ‘Safety first and Service paramount’. The success of any climb depends largely on a carefully planned itinerary and best logistics and these are what we offer. We are committed to maintaining the climb safe and successful with the quality of service.
Our emphasis is always on maintaining the small group so that it will be easy to coordinate and cooperate with each other. You will be guided by highly professional guides who have experience in successfully climbing several national and international peaks. At Highland Expeditions, we provide a 1:3 guide to client ratio on summit days.
With over 30 years of experience in High Altitude Expeditions, we are dedicated to providing the highest professionalism throughout the climb by taking the utmost care of all the logistics needed.
Is this trip for you?
|Total Duration||24N/25 Days|
|Trekking Duration||16N/17 Days|
|Maximum Elevation||6,186m/20,296ft at Kyajo Ri|
Previous experience of climbing at high altitudes will be beneficial and you will need a very strong physical stamina level. This grade trip involves the usage of climbing equipment (Harness, Crampons, Mountaineering Boots, Ascender). Previous experience is essential and we also provide a climbing course at base camp before the actual climb where your guides will teach you the proper way to use the equipment. Previous experience of trekking/climbing at 5000m+ elevation will be beneficial.
Important Note: Your safety is of imperative concern while traveling with Highland Expeditions. Please take care to note that your leader/guide has the authority to amend or cancel any part of the itinerary if it is deemed necessary due to your safety concerns. Every effort will be made to keep to the above itinerary; however, since this adventure entails traveling in remote mountainous regions, we cannot guarantee that we will not deviate from it. Weather, health condition of a group member, unexpected natural disasters, etc., can all contribute to changes in the itinerary. Your leader/guide will try to ensure that the trip runs according to plan, but please be prepared to be flexible if required.
Dates & Price
Our trips are available on both fixed departure and private group basis.
If you are looking for a group to join this trip please click the Fixed Departures tab for more information on departure dates, availability and price. All our fixed departures are guaranteed to run. Or, if you would like to do this trip alone, or with your friends, families & colleagues in a private group style, please fill out the contact form in Private Group tab and send us your message. We will organize a private trip for you at your preferred dates catering any request you may have.
- Fully guided climb with experienced climbing guides on 1:3 ratio (Guide to client ratio)
- Meals and Accommodation at Tea Houses/Lodges during trekking period
- Meals and High-quality mountain tents for during climbing period
- Kyajo Ri Peak permit with garbage deposit.
- National Park Fees
- KTM-LUKLA-KTM Airfare
- Twin sharing accommodation at Kathmandu guest house or similar category for 4 nights with breakfast
- Kathmandu airport transfers and escorts
- Comprehensive first aid kit with supplementary oxygen system
- Personal/Group climbing gears
- Porterage of equipment required during trekking and climbing
- Waterproof Duffel bag, Sleeping bag and Down Jacket (Sleeping bag and down jacket must be returned after completion of trek)
- Peak climbing certificate issued by Nepal Mountaineering Association
- Staff summit bonus, insurances and allowances
- International airfare, Visa and travel insurance
- Personal climbing gears
- Meals at Kathmandu
- Extra night accommodation in Kathmandu or on trek for any reason (Early arrival or delay, Early arrival from trek due to any reason)
- Personal expenses and tips