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Kyajo Ri Peak Climbing

Summit the least explored and climbed peak

Group Size

Min 1 Max 12

Duration

25 Days

Grade

Strenuous

Max. Altitude

6,186m/20,296ft

Activity

Peak Climbing in Nepal

Meals Included

All Meals

Accomodation

Lodge/Camping

Trip Overview

Highlights

  • One of the least explored and climbed Peak
  • Semi-Technical trekking peak with mixed climbing
  • Gokyo Ri and Renjo La for acclimatization
  • Climb 6000m peak in a pure expedition-style

Kyajo Ri Peak Climbing offers a distinct experience of climbing a 6000m trekking peak in Nepal that is seldom climbed. Climb one of the least explored and climbed trekking peaks with qualified guides, followed by a better itinerary allowing proper acclimatization and climbing schedule.

Standing tall at 6,186m/20,296ft, Kyajo Ri Peak is a semi-technical 6000m peak located in between Thame and Gokyo valley. Less popular and unclimbed as compared to the neighbouring peaks, Kyajo Ri provides a thrill of climbing a 6000m peak in a pure expedition style.

Opened to climbing in 2002, Kyajo Ri was climbed for the first time by Franco/ British team. The Commercial Kyajo Ri climbing route is through the southwest ridge. The Southeast Ridge is more challenging while it can also be attempted from the northeast face.

In order to maximize the summit chances, our Kyajo Ri peak climbing itinerary includes an acclimatization trek to Gokyo, an ascent of Gokyo Ri (5,357m/17,575ft) and a trek over Renjo la Pass (5,340m/17,520ft). We will leave the main trail from Namche and walk past Dole and Machhermo to Gokyo valley. Crossing the challenging Renjola High Pass, we will move to Kyajo Ri Base Camp via Thame and Mende.

Kyajo Ri Climbing Route

The normal route for Kyajo Ri Peak Climb is from the south face. This climbing route has fewer hazards such as rockfall or avalanche as compared to other routes. The climb involves mixed climbing of rock, snow, and ice on steep pitches in a few sections. Kyajo Ri summit route is often compared with that of Ama Dablam due to its mixed climbing nature. There will be 2 camps above Base Camp before we reach the summit. Camp I will be at 5,350m while Camp II will be at 5,700m altitude.

Our actual climb begins after our final preparation at the base camp. From the base camp to Camp 1, it’s a long and non-technical walk on rough terrain. The climb to camp 2 involves scree and boulders although it is a short distance from Camp 1. From camp 2 to the summit of Kyajo Ri it’s 12 pitches of snow and ice with 2 steep pitches of 60% gradient just below the summit.

Why climb with us? 

At Highland Expeditions we always believe in ‘Safety first and Service paramount’. The success of any climb depends largely on a carefully planned itinerary and best logistics and these are what we offer. We are committed to maintaining the climb safe and successful with the quality of service.

Our emphasis is always on maintaining the small group so that it will be easy to coordinate and cooperate with each other. You will be guided by highly professional guides who have experience in successfully climbing several national and international peaks. At Highland Expeditions, we provide a 1:3 guide to client ratio on summit days.

With over 30 years of experience in High Altitude Expeditions, we are dedicated to providing the highest professionalism throughout the climb by taking the utmost care of all the logistics needed.

Is this trip for you?

  Grade   Strenuous
  Physical Rating   7-8
  Total Duration   24N/25 Days
  Trekking Duration   16N/17 Days
  Climbing Duration   3N/4Days
  Maximum Elevation   6,186m/20,296ft at Kyajo Ri

Previous experience of climbing at high altitudes will be beneficial and you will need a very strong physical stamina level. This grade trip involves the usage of climbing equipment (Harness, Crampons, Mountaineering Boots, Ascender). Previous experience is essential and we also provide a climbing course at base camp before the actual climb where your guides will teach you the proper way to use the equipment.  Previous experience of trekking/climbing at 5000m+ elevation will be beneficial.

Important Note::

Your safety is of imperative concern while traveling with Highland Expeditions. Please take care to note that your leader/guide has the authority to amend or cancel any part of the itinerary if it is deemed necessary due to your safety concerns. Every effort will be made to keep to the above itinerary; however, since this adventure entails traveling in remote mountainous regions, we cannot guarantee that we will not deviate from it. Weather, health condition of a group member, unexpected natural disasters, etc., can all contribute to changes in the itinerary. Your leader/guide will try to ensure that the trip runs according to plan, but please be prepared to be flexible if required.

Trip Itinerary

Day 01-

Arrival in Kathmandu

Arrival at Tribhuvan International Airport, Nepal. Upon completing the visa formalities and collecting your luggages in the airport, kindly proceed to the exit of the arrival hall. Your trip leader will await you just outside the arrival hall and will escort you to your hotel in Kathmandu. Please look out for a placard of Highland Expeditions.

Accommodation:

Hotel

Max Elevation:

1,350m/4,430ft

Day 02-

Exploration of Kathmandu and climb preparation

After your first night in Kathmandu, you will be well informed on arrival about the time for your exploration tour in Kathmandu, which includes Bouddhanath stupa and Pashupatinath temple. However, sometimes, depending on your flight arrival, if it’s too late into the night we will do this tour in the afternoon instead of morning to give you some sleep and rest so that you can get rid of that jetlag before you venture out of the Hotel for our interesting tour. In the evening, you will be briefed by your trek and climb leader about your trekking program the next day. In case you have fallen short of any trek and climb equipment that you may need, this time can be used to arrange for it.

Meals:

Breakfast

Accommodation:

Hotel

Max Elevation:

1,350m/4,430ft

Day 03-

Fly to Lukla and trek to Phakding

Early in the morning, you will be transferred to Tribhuvan Airport, domestic terminal for Kathmandu to Lukla flight. It takes 30minutes of pleasant flight to take us to
Tenzing Hillary Airport in Lukla. The flight allows panoramic views of many snow-clad peaks and mountains. Lukla is the gateway to Everest Khumbu region. After reaching Lukla, you will be introduced to other crew members. We will take breakfast at one of the lodges. Once porters prepare necessary luggage, we will begin our trek. We will walk through the stone pathway downhill. After few hours, we will meet the straight trail which is decorated with Mani rocks. We can rejoice the striking view of Lukla village. We will finally reach Phakding. After refreshment, you will have short walk to nearby village. If time permits, we will also visit a local monastery. Return to lodge in Phakding for dinner. You will get briefing regarding following day’s trek. Overnight stay in lodge in Phakding.

Meals:

Breakfast,Lunch,Dinner

Accommodation:

Teahouse/Lodge

Duration:

3-4 hrs

Max Elevation:

2,600m/8,531ft

Day 04-

Trek to Namche Bazar

We will continue our journey along Dudhkoshi River which will take us through pine forest. After crossing suspension bridges at several points and passing through small settlements of Zapute, Toktok, Benkar and Chumoa, we will reach Monjo. This is known as the gateway to the Sagarmatha National Park. Lowering down from the park, we will arrive at river. Crossing another suspension bridge, we will proceed towards high Hillary Bridge located at the foot of the hill. Crossing this bridge, we will climb uphill to the Namche Bazaar. We can get view of Thamserku Mountain. If weather is clear, we can also have first view of Mt. Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse and Kusum Khangru mountains. We will stay overnight in a lodge in Namche Bazaar.

Meals:

Breakfast,Lunch,Dinner

Accommodation:

Teahouse/Lodge

Max Elevation:

3,450m/11,319ft

Day 05-

Rest and Acclimatization day

Namche Bazaar is regarded as gateway to the high Himalayas. It is also the main trading center and a capital of Sherpa land. Rest is recommended in Namche for acclimatization purpose. Short hike will be arranged to the ancient Sherpa village of Thame to observe the rich Sherpa culture. We can also visit nearby Khumjung, Khunde or Khongde villages. Shopping in marketplace of Namche is another fine idea. National Park Head office, Museum and monasteries are other places of interest. The area is clustered with cafes, shops, bakeries and restaurants. The place supports facilities of post office, hospital, government health post. Internet access is also available at Namche so that you can contact your near ones. Overnight stay in a lodge in Namche Bazaar.

Meals:

Breakfast,Lunch,Dinner

Accommodation:

Teahouse/Lodge

Duration:

4-5 hrs

Max Elevation:

3,450m/11,319ft

Day 06-

Trek to Dole

Leaving Namche, we will take four hours of trek to Dole. We will follow classic path to Everest Base Camp till Sanasa from where we will climb uphill to Mongla (4000m) that greets us with breathtaking views of mountains. We will cross Phortse Tenga and climb to
Dole via rhododendron forest. Trekking route to Gokyo Lake and Renjo La Pass trek route intersects at Sanasa. Stay overnight in Dole.

Meals:

Breakfast,Lunch,Dinner

Accommodation:

Teahouse/Lodge

Duration:

6-7 hrs

Max Elevation:

4,040m/13,255ft

Day 07-

Trek to Machhermo

We will leave our camp in Dole early in the morning and follow the ascending trail along valley, passing through the juniper forest. We will pass the summer settlement area where we can see yaks grazing on the lush green vegetation. We will enjoy the panoramic views of Cho Oyu Mountain, Kantega Peak and Thamserku Mountain from our campsite. Stay overnight in Machhermo.

Meals:

Breakfast,Lunch,Dinner

Accommodation:

Teahouse/Lodge

Duration:

3-4 hrs

Max Elevation:

4,470m/14,665ft

Day 08-

Trek to Gokyo

We will leave Machhermo and pursue the picturesque path to Pangka. Lowering down from Pangka, we will follow the river that flows to the west of Nepal’s largest Ngozumpa glacial system for brief periods before climbing through the rocky area to reach the holy lake. Moving along the glacier to Cho La (5420m), we will reach second lake. Brief walk from the second lake will take us to the third lake known as Dudhpokhari. Gokyo is located on the eastern edge of Dudhpokhari. Stay overnight in Gokyo.

Meals:

Breakfast,Lunch,Dinner

Accommodation:

Teahouse/Lodge

Duration:

5-6 hrs

Max Elevation:

4,800m/15,750ft

Day 09-

Hike up to Gokyo Ri and overnight at Gokyo

This is a rest day which helps us to reduce the stress level. It will also help in proper acclimatization to the changing altitude. Lodges are available in Gokyo. Gokyo Ri and Fifth Lake are the places of interest in Gokyo. Gokyo Ri is in fact one of the best view points in Everest. We will return to our campsite in Gokyo for overnight stay.

Meals:

Breakfast,Lunch,Dinner

Accommodation:

Teahouse/Lodge

Duration:

6-7 hrs

Max Elevation:

5,357m/17,575ft

Day 10-

Trek to Lungden via Renjo La Pass

Leaving Gokyo early in the morning, we will enter valley and take uphill climb through ice and rock spur to the foot of Renjo La Pass. Climbing Renjo La is a challenging task. 3-4 hrs of difficult climb will take us to the top of Renjo La pass. The summit of Renjo La (5435m) offers one of the finest views in Solukhumbu. We will enjoy the views of Cho Oyu, Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, Makalu, Cholaste, Tabuche peak and other peaks and mountains from Renjola. Lowering down from the pass, we will follow stone steps to reach glacial lake. Walking through the path along glacial lake, we will reach small settlement of Lungden.

Meals:

Breakfast,Lunch,Dinner

Accommodation:

Teahouse/Lodge

Duration:

8-9 hrs

Max Elevation:

5,340m/17,520ft

Day 11-

Trek to Thame

After early breakfast in Lungden (4500m), we will follow the path along ancient and walled Sherpa villages. The region is rich in Himalayan wildlife like yak and deer. Following the traditional trade route in between Nepal and Tibet, we will reach Thame. Tibetans cross Nagpa La Pass to make it to Namche Bazaar. We will stay overnight in Thame.

Meals:

Breakfast,Lunch,Dinner

Accommodation:

Teahouse/Lodge

Duration:

4-5 hrs

Max Elevation:

3,800m/12,468ft

Day 12-

Trek to Mende

After breakfast, we head to Mende where we will sleep overnight before heading to Kyajo Ri Base Camp.

Meals:

Breakfast,Lunch,Dinner

Accommodation:

Fully tented camping

Duration:

5-6 hrs

Max Elevation:

3,740m/12,271ft

Day 13-

Trek to Kyajo Ri Base Camp

This is a relatively easy path. We will leave Mende and follow the narrow yak trail to the pass. Crossing the pass, we will reach Kyajo Drangka valley that exists to the south of Kyajo Ri. The path is scenic with views of Thamserku, Kusum Kangaru, Pacharmo and other peaks and mountains. We will arrive at the flat surface near river where we will set our camp and stay overnight.

Meals:

Breakfast,Lunch,Dinner

Accommodation:

Fully Tented Camping

Duration:

4-5 hrs

Max Elevation:

4,550m/14,928ft

Day 14-

Rest and get organized at base camp

We will take rest at Base Camp and prepare ourselves for the challenges of Kyajo Ri. You will receive instructions on Peak climbing techniques. You will also be taught how to use the climbing gears like ice axe, crampons, harness and ascender properly. You will be made aware about the things that you should do should you get trapped in difficult situation.

Meals:

Breakfast,Lunch,Dinner

Accommodation:

Fully Tented Camping

Max Elevation:

4,550m/14,928ft

Day 15-

Move up to Camp 1

After a day of rest and few hours of practice on previous day, we will aim to reach Camp1 on this day. Our journey continues through grassy spur from where we will climb the rocky section through boulders and pebbles to reach Camp1. We will find the flat area for our Camp 1. Our camp site is scenic with panoramic views of surrounding mountains. Stay overnight in Camp 1.

Meals:

Breakfast,Lunch,Dinner

Accommodation:

Fully Tented Camping

Duration:

4-5 hrs

Max Elevation:

5,300m/17,389ft

Day 16-

Rest and Acclimatization Day

Taking rest on this day helps us in proper acclimatization of our body. Save energy for the final ascend of Kyajo Ri summit. Drink plenty of fluid. Stay overnight in Camp 1.

Meals:

Breakfast,Lunch,Dinner

Accommodation:

Fully Tented Camping

Day 17-

Move up to Camp 2

Climbing to Camp 2 is more technical than climbing to Camp 1. We need to move through 55 degree slope. The trail is slippery as we walk through glaciers. We will find clear area near glaciated lake for Camp 2. The campsite is scenic with awe-inspiring views of surrounding mountains.

Meals:

Breakfast,Lunch,Dinner

Accommodation:

Fully Tented Camping

Duration:

4-5 hrs

Max Elevation:

5,700m/18,701ft

Day 18-

Summit Kyajo Ri and descend to Camp

This is going to be a long and tiring day but the views and experience make our trek rewarding. We will start the trek early in the morning before sunrise. After hurried breakfast, we will move through boulders and glacier and arrive at Southwestern ridge. We will climb through snow and ice and small rock section to Kyajo Ri summit. We will spend some time on summit for photo shooting and then we will lower down to Camp 2 where we will stay overnight.

Meals:

Breakfast,Lunch,Dinner

Accommodation:

Fully Tented Camping

Duration:

7-8 hrs

Max Elevation:

6,186m/20,296ft

Day 19-

Contingency day for any delays

This is a free day which has been allocated in itinerary to ensure that our schedule will go on smoothly without interruption even if their occur complications during climbing peaks. The successful adventure depends on multiple factors like weather condition and fitness of our fellow crew members. In such case, the contingency day will be useful for sticking up to the plan.

Meals:

Breakfast,Lunch,Dinner

Accommodation:

Fully Tented Camping

Day 20-

Descend to Base Camp

From Camp 2, we will descend to Base Camp of Kyajo Ri. We will celebrate the successful Kyajo Ri climb. Stay overnight in Base Camp.

Meals:

Breakfast,Lunch,Dinner

Accommodation:

Fully Tented Camping

Duration:

4-5 hrs

Max Elevation:

4,550m/14,928ft

Day 21-

Trek to Namche Bazar

Leaving Kyajo Ri Base Camp, we will make return trip back to Namche Bazaar. The path is easy where we will be pursuing the descending trail for most part of the trek. We will pass through rhododendron forest and small Sherpa settlements to Namche where we will stay overnight.

Meals:

Breakfast,Lunch,Dinner

Accommodation:

Fully Tented Camping

Duration:

5-6 hrs

Max Elevation:

3,450m/11,319ft

Day 22-

Trek to Lukla

We will take the downhill walk from Namche that leads us to the bridge over Dudh Koshi River. Moving further, we will arrive at Monjo where we need to fulfill the official formalities at the check post of Sagarmatha National Park. We will retrace the route back to Phakding where we will take lunch before moving to Lukla. The trail is easy and colorful marked by prayer stones and prayer flags. We will stay overnight in a lodge in Lukla. Later we celebrate our successful completion of trek with our Sherpa guides and porters who we’ve got to know so well & are now good friends.

Meals:

Breakfast,Lunch,Dinner

Accommodation:

Teahouse/Lodge

Duration:

5-6 hrs

Max Elevation:

2,800m/9187ft

Day 23-

Fly to Kathmandu

We get up early in the morning, enjoy our b/fast & get ready for the arrival of our aircraft for the flight back to Kathmandu. On our touchdown at the Kathmandu airport, we will be met by our office reps and transferred to your hotel. Rest of your day is free to do your own things.

Meals:

Breakfast

Accommodation:

Hotel

Max Elevation:

1,350m/4,430ft

Day 24-

In Kathmandu

Enjoy a leisure day. You are on your own. Participating in a day tour in Kathmandu is a pleasant plan. You can also go for shopping in Thamel, a tourist hub where you can buy souvenir items like handicrafts and arts to your family. At eventide, we will relish a farewell dinner to celebrate our successful climb. While enjoying our supper, we will also be entertained to a scintillating cultural dance performed by the local belles
Please do not hesitate to let us know if you would like to extend your stay. Kindly email us for more details on extensions.

Meals:

Breakfast,Dinner

Accommodation:

Hotel

Max Elevation:

1,350m/4,430ft

Day 25-

International departure

Finally, the undeniable day of departure arrives. Thank you for joining us on this climb and it has been a pleasure getting to know you during this time. We hope this venture has enriched your experience with happy memories. You will be assisted in your last minute preparation. Our representative will take you to Tribhuvan International Airport three hours before your scheduled flight. Keep in touch and hope to hear from you soon. Bon voyage for a safe and pleasant trip home.

Meals:

Breakfast

Accommodation:

Hotel

Availability

Our trips are available on both group departure and private trip.

If you’re looking to join a group, click the Group Departures tab for details on dates, availability, and pricing. All our group departures are guaranteed to run once signed up.

If you prefer a private trip with your friends, family, or colleagues, please fill out the contact form in the Private Trip tab. We’ll organize a personalized trip for you on your preferred dates, accommodating any special requests you may have.

Have a big group? We’re here to assist! Contact us to discuss availability and group pricing options.

Ready to create your perfect adventure? Use our trip planner to customize your itinerary and schedule according to your preferences. We’re here to help you tailor every detail to fit your unique needs.

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Cost Inclusion

  • Fully guided climb with experienced climbing guides on 1:3 ratio (Guide to client ratio)
  • Meals and Accommodation at Tea Houses/Lodges during trekking period
  • Meals and High-quality mountain tents for during climbing period
  • Kyajo Ri Peak permit with garbage deposit.
  • National Park Fees
  • KTM-LUKLA-KTM Airfare
  • Twin sharing accommodation at Kathmandu guest house or similar category for 4 nights with breakfast
  • Kathmandu airport transfers and escorts
  • Comprehensive first aid kit with supplementary oxygen system
  • Personal/Group climbing gears
  • Porterage of equipment required during trekking and climbing
  • Waterproof Duffel bag, Sleeping bag and Down Jacket (Sleeping bag and down jacket must be returned after completion of trek)
  • Peak climbing certificate issued by Nepal Mountaineering Association
  • Staff summit bonus, insurances and allowances

Cost Exclusion

  • International airfare, Visa and travel insurance
  • Personal climbing gears
  • Meals at Kathmandu
  • Extra night accommodation in Kathmandu or on trek for any reason (Early arrival or delay, Early arrival from trek due to any reason)
  • Personal expenses and tips

Essential Information

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