Which are the best boots for peak climbing in Nepal? A question which struck every climber before heading to Nepal. While there are many boots out in the market for high altitude, it’s important to find out if the boot you are planning to buy will serve you well and keep your feet warm for your intended trip. In context of Nepal, peak climbing will generally be up to 6,476m (highest trekking peak) and higher than this altitude will require a proper mountaineering boots. On peak climbing trips in Nepal, you will be wearing your climbing boots for a day or three (In case of Mera Peak) but these days are crucial in your whole trip and beside the temperature will drop considerably lower in higher altitude (As low as minus 25 degrees centigrade) so it’s very important to make sure that the boot is fit for your activity, comfortable and warm.
Gone are the days when a pair of plastic boot (Koflachs) with crampons strapped does work on peak climbing in Nepal. With more innovation and technology, the climbing boots these days have seen a huge upgrade in terms of light weight, comfort, warmth etc. We still see the use of Koflachs on peak climbing trips in Nepal, while they are not a bad boot for climbing; Koflachs boot is heavier as compared to the newer generation boots. While the boot completely differs on your level of activity and the altitude, we have listed some of the boots you should also consider for peak climbing trips in Nepal such as Mera Peak, Island Peak, Lobuche East and etc. For anything higher elevation than trekking peaks, you will require a proper mountaineering boots such as La Sportiva Olympus Mons, Scarpa 8000 or Millet Everest Summit GTX.
Important note: This is neither a sponsored post nor a post aimed at a particular brand for any purpose. All the boots listed in this blog are the one which we see regularly on the mountains of Nepal. The boots mentioned in this blog are used by both guides and clients. We posted this due to the positive reviews and experiences we have heard over the years.
Things to consider about before buying a boot for Nepal peak climbing:
1. Conduct thorough research
Read product reviews from independent sources. Always read and heed the manufacturer’s warnings and instructions for use, inspection, maintenance, and retirement. Ask your friends or anyone in circle if they have used the boot you intend to buy. Conduct thorough research about the pros and cons of the boot.
2. Fit and sizing
Above all, ensure the boot you choose is comfortable and fits well. On Nepal peak climbing trips (6000m peaks), you will only be wearing the climbing boots for 1-2 days but these are the important days on your itinerary so try on several pairs before making your choice. Wear your summit socks when trying on the climbing boots. It’s recommended to get your boots one-half to a full size larger than your regular shoe size to ensure there is some space between your toes and the front of the boot.
3. Buy or Rent
If you plan to continue climbing in future, then it may be a good decision to buy a pair of climbing boots but if this is your first and last time, then perhaps renting a boot will save you a fortune. You can rent boots in trekking/climbing shops in Thamel, Kathmandu after your arrival. We highly recommend you to rent a boot from Kathmandu after making sure it fits you well rather than to a hire a boot from teahouses/lodges on trek as often time they will not have a right size for you and may not be of a good quality. While taking the boots from Kathmandu increases your duffel bag weight, it is much more worth than trying your luck to find the appropriate boot for you at last moment.
4. Crampons compatibility
Peak climbing in Nepal will require use of climbing equipment (Crampons, Harness, Ice Axe etc.). On peak climbing trips crampons helps you in walking securely on snow and ice. There are different types of crampon compatibility (Automatic Crampons/Step in Crampons, Semi-Automatic Crampons, Strap on crampons). Check the materials, front point type, points and binding when you purchase the crampon. All the boots we have listed below are compatible with the Automatic/Step in crampons.
5. Shells materials
The shell is the outer layer part of the boot. It’s also your first line of defense. Synthetic, Plastic and Leather are the three-common shell material found in the boot. While the plastic boots are definitely drier and more stable but they are generally heavier and drains more energy. Synthetic boots weigh less, cinch down tighter and gives you the slight flexibility of a hybrid with the shell-like security of a plastic.
The stiffness of the boot determines the activity the boot is built to undertake.
Rigid boots such as plastic boot is mainly for the technical ice climbing as the entire body weight is on two front point. Semi Rigid boots allows more level of comfort unlike the rigid boot.
Best boots for peak climbing in Nepal | 6000m peaks
1.La Sportiva G2 SM
Purpose-built and technical, the G2 SM is a lightweight double boot designed in collaboration with renowned Italian alpinist Simone Moro for the world’s boldest peaks. Double boot construction maximizes warmth, and dual Boa® closure systems ensure a responsive fit and ease of operation with gloves.
2. La Sportiva Spantik
The Spantik is a double boot designed for cold, high altitudes environments. This step-in crampon-compatible boot excels on steep terrain without sacrificing walkability. The thermo-molded inner boot and one-handed closure system provide insulation and convenient lacing.
3. La Sportiva G5
The G5 is a highly technical big mountain boot designed for visionary lines. This synthetic, weatherproof boot ensures maximum fit and performance through its Boa® lacing system, while the ankle flex zone supports ease of movement in rough terrain. The external Cordura® gaiters and internal water-resistant membrane ensure your feet stay dry in full conditions.
4. Scarpa Phantom Tech
Scarpa’s Men’s Phantom Tech Mountaineering Boots may be built like a brick house, but they’re about 20% lighter than traditional leather cold weather mountaineering boots, making them a solid choice for everything from standard mountaineering to hardcore ice climbing.
5. Scarpa Phantom 6000
The Phantom 6000 is a double layered boot designed for climbing 6000m peaks or cold weather alpinism. The Phantom 6000 is designed to be warm, tough and lightweight, perfect for climbing 6000m Himalayan peaks. The Outer shell is made from a mix of high tenacity KCN-Tech nylon and the aptly named Super Fabric for superior abrasion resistant against crampon wear.
6. La Sportiva Nepal Cube GTX
Combining innovative 3D Flex™ ankle construction and super warm Carbon-Tech honeycomb insole, the Nepal Cube GTX delivers the latest in mixed terrain climbing footwear. This lightweight, technical single boot is ideal for cold-weather climbs on variable terrain.
7. La Sportiva Baruntse
A sturdy, durable double boot for high altitude mountaineering. Ideal for use on 6000-7000 meter peaks or in harsh winter conditions where you don’t want to think about your feet.