Steps to Summit Everest: A Guide for Aspiring Climbers

Climbing Mount Everest, the highest peak in the world at 8,848 meters (29,029 feet), is a dream many adventurers share. However, reaching the summit is no small feat; it requires meticulous preparation, training, unwavering determination, and the right guidance.

With over 30 years of experience in mountaineering, we at Highland Expeditions have guided numerous climbers to the top of the world.

We have made this blog post to provide a detailed roadmap for those aspiring to climb Everest, covering everything from training guidelines to the necessary equipment, and the various methods of climbing and acclimatization.

Whether you’re just starting or refining your preparation to summit Everest, this guide will help you take the first step toward your Everest summit.

1. Understanding the Climb: Why Preparation is Key

Summiting Everest is not just about reaching the top; it’s about the journey, the preparation, and the mental and physical endurance required. The journey to the summit of Everest is a culmination of years of preparation, learning, and smaller expeditions that build the skills and resilience needed to tackle the world’s highest peak. Our Everest Expedition is designed with a 1:1 sherpa guide-to-client ratio, ensuring that every climber has the support and guidance needed for a successful and safe ascent.

2. Physical and Mental Training: The Foundation of Success

Physical Training

Climbing Everest is an extreme physical challenge, and the training should reflect that.

Here’s a structured approach to get your body ready:

• Cardiovascular Endurance: Engage in long-distance running, cycling, and swimming to build cardiovascular strength. Aim for at least 5-6 hours of cardio each week, gradually increasing the intensity and duration.

• Strength Training: Focus on building core strength, as well as the muscles in your legs, back, and shoulders. Exercises like squats, deadlifts, lunges, and pull-ups are essential. Incorporate weight training 3-4 times a week.

• Hiking and Mountaineering: Spend time hiking and climbing in various terrains, with a weighted backpack to simulate the conditions on Everest. Weekend hikes and multi-day treks in mountainous regions will help acclimatize your body to high-altitude conditions. Try to do your training for high altitude climbs in any weather; rainy, frosty, windy, or sunny. It is impossible to know 100% that there will be only exceptionally good weather in the mountains. You need to be ready for anything.

• Flexibility and Recovery: Include stretching, yoga, and foam rolling in your routine to improve flexibility and aid recovery. Proper rest and recovery are just as crucial as the training itself.

Mental Training

The mental aspect of climbing Everest is often underestimated. The mountain will test your resolve, patience, and mental fortitude.

Here’s how to prepare mentally:

• Visualization: Regularly visualize yourself on the mountain, going through the motions of climbing, overcoming challenges, and reaching the summit. This mental rehearsal helps build confidence and reduces anxiety.

• Mindfulness and Meditation: Practice mindfulness and meditation to stay focused and calm under pressure. These techniques can help you manage stress, stay present, and make sound decisions during the climb.

• Mental Toughness Exercises: Engage in activities that push your mental limits, such as cold water immersion or endurance challenges. These experiences will help you develop the resilience needed to face the harsh conditions on Everest.

3. Building Your Climbing Skills: The Path to Everest

Before attempting Everest, it’s essential to build your climbing skills through a series of smaller expeditions and climbs. These experiences will not only prepare you physically but also teach you the technical skills required for a safe ascent.

Recommended Pre-Everest Climbs

• Everest Base Camp Trek (5,364m,17,595ft): This trek provides an essential introduction to the Everest region, allowing you to acclimatize and prepare mentally for higher-altitude climbs. It’s an excellent way to familiarize yourself with the terrain and altitude.
• Three Peaks Climb (6,476m/21,245ft): Climbing three significant 6000m peaks (Mera Peak, Island Peak, and Lobuche Peak) provides a great opportunity to learn and sharpen your mountaineering skills. This will build your technical climbing skills and endurance. This climb challenges your ability to manage longer-duration climbs, multiple ascents, and navigate different terrains.
• Manaslu Expedition (8,163m/26,781ft): Climbing Manaslu, the eighth-highest mountain in the world, offers valuable high-altitude experience and technical climbing practice. Manaslu is often considered a stepping stone to Everest. It’s a perfect way to test your skills at an 8000m peak and see how your body performs at 8000m.  Also, this expedition provides a great knowledge of the use of oxygen at high altitude expeditions
• Everest Expedition (8,848m/29,029ft): After gaining experience from the above climbs, your Everest Expedition will be the culmination of your preparation. Our guided expeditions offer a 1:1 sherpa guide-to-client ratio, providing the support needed for a successful ascent.

4. Learning and Training for Everest: Essential Skills

To summit Everest, you’ll need more than just physical strength; you’ll need a set of technical skills that can be acquired through training and smaller expeditions. Taking part in mountaineering courses can be a great way to learn and develop these skills.

Here’s what you need to learn, you can take part in mountaineering courses or learn these whilst taking part in different trips as well:

• Crampon and Ice Axe Techniques: Master the use of crampons and ice axes, as they are essential for navigating the icy slopes of Everest. Practice walking, climbing, and self-arrest techniques in controlled environments.
• Crevasse Rescue: Learn how to perform crevasse rescues, both for yourself and others. This skill is critical, especially in the Khumbu Icefall, where crevasses are a constant hazard.
• Rope Management: Get comfortable with different rope techniques, including fixed ropes, jumaring, rappelling, and knots. These skills are crucial for ascending and descending safely on Everest.
• Glacier Travel: Learn how to travel safely across glaciers, understanding the risks of crevasses, seracs, and avalanches. Glacier travel is a significant part of the Everest climb, especially on the approach to Camp 1.
• High-Altitude Camping: Experience camping at high altitudes, where the lack of oxygen, cold temperatures, and harsh conditions make even the simplest tasks challenging. Learn how to set up a tent, cook, and manage gear in these extreme environments.

5. Expedition Styles: Planning Your Expedition

Understanding which climbing style suits you best is crucial. With technological advancements, the approach to climbing Everest has evolved. In addition to the traditional classic style, there is now a modern approach that incorporates acclimatization at home, reducing the overall time spent on the mountains.

The cost of an Everest expedition can vary significantly depending on the services, support, and logistics offered. Here’s a breakdown of the different climbing methods and their associated costs:

Classic Guided Expeditions

The traditional method involves spending several weeks on the mountain, gradually ascending to higher camps, and then descending to lower altitudes to allow your body to acclimatize. This method requires patience and resilience, as the process can take up to two months. It also allows climbers to become familiar with the mountain and develop a routine.

• Overview: This is the most common and traditional way to climb Everest, involving a full-service guided expedition. These expeditions typically last about 60 days and include acclimatization on the mountain itself.
• Cost: The cost for a classic guided expedition ranges from $35,000 to $60,000, depending on the level of service. This includes permits, guides, sherpas, oxygen, food, and accommodations.
• Pros: Offers comprehensive support, including logistics, experienced guides, and a structured acclimatization schedule. Ideal for climbers who want a traditional Everest experience.
• Cons: Longer duration on the mountain increases exposure to risks such as avalanches, crevasses, and extreme weather.

Modern Expeditions with Pre-Acclimatization

Some climbers opt for modern acclimatization techniques, such as using hypoxic altitude chambers at home to pre-acclimatize before arriving at Everest. This method reduces the time spent on the mountain, potentially minimizing exposure to risks such as avalanches and crevasses. However, it may not provide the same level of adaptation as the traditional method, and the climber may not be as familiar with the mountain’s conditions.

• Overview: Some climbers choose to acclimatize at home using hypoxic altitude chambers, which simulate high-altitude conditions. This method reduces the time spent on the mountain, typically requiring only 30 days for the entire expedition.
• Cost: These expeditions can be more expensive, ranging from $60,000 to $90,000, due to the additional cost of pre-acclimatization equipment and the expedited logistics on the mountain.
• Pros: Reduces the time spent on Everest, potentially lowering the risk of altitude-related illnesses and minimizing exposure to hazardous conditions. Allows climbers to maintain fitness and work commitments before the expedition.
• Cons: May not provide the same level of acclimatization as the traditional method, and the climber may not be as well-adapted to the specific conditions on Everest.

6. South Side vs. North Side: Which Route to Choose?

Everest can be climbed from both the South (Nepal) and North (Tibet) sides, each offering unique challenges and rewards. While both the South and North sides of Everest offer unique challenges, the decision of which route to take often comes down to personal preference and experience.

Here’s a comparison to help you decide:

South Side (Nepal)

• Pros:
  • Khumbu Icefall: A thrilling and challenging part of the climb, offering a true Himalayan experience.
  • Support Infrastructure: Better support from sherpas, more established base camps, and better rescue facilities.
  • Cultural Experience: Trekking through the Khumbu region offers rich cultural experiences with the Sherpa community.
• Cons:
  • Crowds: The South side is more popular, leading to crowded routes and camps.
  • Weather: The weather can be more unpredictable, especially during the pre-monsoon season.

North Side (Tibet)

• Pros:
  • Less Crowded: Fewer climbers mean less congestion on the route.
  • Technical Climb: The North Ridge offers a more technically challenging climb, appealing to experienced mountaineers.
  • Longer Summit Day: The summit push from the North is shorter, reducing the time spent in the “death zone.”
• Cons:
  • Exposure: The North side is more exposed to winds and harsh weather, making it more dangerous.
  • Political and Logistical Challenges: Accessing the North side can be complicated due to political restrictions and the need for permits from China.

Here’s a quick recap:

• South Side (Nepal): More popular, better support infrastructure, richer cultural experience, but more crowded and potentially more weather-related challenges.

• North Side (Tibet): Less crowded, more technically challenging, shorter summit day, but more exposed to harsh weather and logistical challenges.

7. Equipment List: Gear Up for the Climb

The right equipment can make the difference between success and failure on Everest. Do not compromise on the quality of the gears.

Here’s a comprehensive list of the gear you’ll need:

• Climbing Gear: Ice axe, crampons, harnesses, carabiners, ascenders, descenders, and a climbing helmet.
• Clothing: Layered clothing system, including base layers, mid-layers, insulation layers, and outer shells. Down suits are essential for the summit push.
• Footwear: Triple Layer Mountaineering boots, Approach Shoes, Camp shoes, and down booties.
• Sleeping Gear: A high-quality sleeping bag rated for -40°C for higher camps, A high-quality sleeping bag rated for -20°C for base camp, a sleeping mat,
• Technical Gear: GPS device, altimeter, headlamp with extra batteries, and a satellite phone or communication device.
• Medical Kit: High-altitude medications and personal first-aid kit
• Other Items: Other items such as radios, oxygen, masks, regulators, tents, cookware, etc will be provided by the expedition company.

8. Equipment Costs

In addition to the cost of the expedition itself, climbers must also invest in high-quality gear. Here’s a rough estimate of the gear costs:

• Climbing Gear: $2,000 – $2,500 (ice axe, crampons, harness, etc.)
• Clothing: $3,000 – $5,000 (layering system, down suit, etc.)
• Footwear: $1,500 – $2,000 (mountaineering boots, overboots, etc.)
• Sleeping Gear: $1,000 – $1,500 (sleeping bag, mat, etc.)
• Technical Gear: $500 – $1,000 (GPS, headlamp, etc.)

9. The Importance of Choosing a Local Company

When planning your Everest expedition, it’s crucial to consider the company you choose. While foreign companies may offer similar services, they often charge significantly more for the same experience that a local company provides. Here’s why choosing a local company like ours is beneficial:

• Value for Money: Local companies often provide the same level of service, safety, and success as foreign companies but at a fraction of the cost.
• Local Expertise: Local companies have an intimate knowledge of the terrain, weather patterns, and cultural nuances. Our team of sherpas and guides, who are born and raised in the region, offer unparalleled expertise and support.
• Supporting the Local Economy: By choosing a local company, you’re directly contributing to the local economy, helping to sustain the livelihoods of the Sherpa community and other locals involved in the expedition.

10. Everest Summit Records: What the Numbers Say

Summiting Everest is a monumental achievement, and the mountain has seen climbers from all walks of life. Here are some fascinating statistics:

• Most Summits: Kami Rita Sherpa from Nepal has reached the summit of Everest 30 times as of 2024. The record for the most summits by a foreigner (non-Nepali) is held by Kenton Cool from the UK, with 18 ascents. The most summits by a woman is held by Lhakpa Sherpa of Nepal, with 10 ascents.
• Youngest Climber: Jordan Romero from the USA reached the summit at the age of 13 in 2010.
• Oldest Climber: Yuichiro Miura from Japan summited Everest at the age of 80 in 2013.
• First Female Ascent: Junko Tabei from Japan was the first woman to summit Everest in 1975.
• Success Rates: The overall success rate for summiting Everest has been increasing, with around 60% of climbers reaching the summit in recent years. However, the success rate varies based on age, gender, fitness level, and experience.

11. What the Climb to Everest from Nepal side will Look Like: A Brief Itinerary and Plan

Here’s a brief overview of what the climb will look like, including our acclimatization strategy, rotations, and the final push to the summit.

Approach to Everest Base Camp

The journey to Everest begins with a trek through the Khumbu Valley, a region rich in Sherpa culture and breathtaking landscapes. Here’s what the approach to Base Camp looks like:

• Day 1-2: Arrival in Kathmandu (1,350m)
  Meet your guides and team members, review the expedition plan, and prepare for the trek ahead.
• Day 3: Fly to Lukla (2,860m) and Trek to Phakding (2,610m)
  After a scenic flight to Lukla, begin the trek with a gentle walk to Phakding, passing through small villages and crossing suspension bridges.
• Day 4: Trek to Namche Bazaar (3,440m)
  A challenging day as you trek uphill to Namche Bazaar, the gateway to the Khumbu region. This vibrant town offers the first views of Everest.
• Day 5: Acclimatization Day in Namche Bazaar
  Spend the day acclimatizing by hiking to nearby viewpoints, visiting local markets, and exploring the Sherpa Museum.
• Day 6: Trek to Tengboche (3,860m)
  Continue the trek with stunning views of Everest, Lhotse, and Ama Dablam. Visit the famous Tengboche Monastery, a spiritual highlight of the journey.
• Day 7: Trek to Dingboche (4,410m)
  As you gain altitude, the landscape becomes more barren. Dingboche offers incredible views of the surrounding peaks.
• Day 8: Acclimatization Day in Dingboche
  Another acclimatization day with a hike to Nagarjun Hill (5,100m) or a rest day to conserve energy for the climb ahead.
• Day 9: Trek to Lobuche (4,910m)
  The trail becomes more rugged as you approach Lobuche, with a poignant stop at the Everest Memorials along the way.
• Day 10: Trek to Everest Base Camp (5,364m)
  Finally, reach Everest Base Camp, your home for the next several weeks. Celebrate the first major milestone of the expedition.

Acclimatization Rotation 1: Climbing Lobuche East (6,119m)

To reduce the risks associated with multiple rotations through the Khumbu Icefall, we now incorporate a climb of Lobuche East Peak as the first rotation. This peak, standing at 6,119 meters, provides an excellent acclimatization climb and prepares you for the higher altitudes of Everest.

• Day 11-12: Acclimatization and Preparation at Base Camp
  Spend the day at Base Camp preparing for the climb of Lobuche East.
• Day 13-14: Trek to Lobuche East High Camp (5,400m)
  Leave Everest Base Camp and trek to Lobuche East High Camp, where you’ll spend the night.
• Day 15-16: Summit Lobuche East (6,119m) and Return to Base Camp
  Start the summit push early in the morning, tackling the steep snow and ice slopes to reach the summit. After enjoying the views, descend back to Base Camp.

This climb effectively replaces the traditional first rotation up the Khumbu Icefall, reducing the risk for both clients and sherpas while achieving the acclimatization needed for higher altitudes.

Acclimatization Rotation 2: Climbing to Camp 3 on Everest

With the acclimatization from Lobuche East complete, the second rotation focuses on climbing higher on Everest itself. This rotation involves ascending through the Khumbu Icefall to Camps 1, 2, and 3.

• Day 17-18: Rest Day at Base Camp
  Recover from the climb of Lobuche East and prepare for the next rotation.
• Day 19: Climb to Camp 1 (6,065m)
  Begin the climb through the Khumbu Icefall, navigating the crevasses and seracs to reach Camp 1.
• Day 20: Climb to Camp 2 (6,400m)
  Continue up the Western Cwm to Camp 2, a well-established camp with stunning views of Lhotse and Nuptse.
• Day 21: Rest and Acclimatization at Camp 2
  Spend a day at Camp 2 acclimatizing and preparing for the climb to Camp 3.
• Day 22: Climb to Camp 3 (7,200m) and Return to Camp 2
  Ascend the steep Lhotse Face to reach Camp 3, using fixed ropes for safety. After reaching Camp 3, descend back to Camp 2 for the night.
• Day 23: Descend to Base Camp
  Return to Base Camp to rest and recover, having completed the second and final rotation.

Summit Push: The Final Ascent

With both rotations complete, you’ll be fully acclimatized and ready for the summit push. The timing of the final ascent depends on weather conditions, which will be closely monitored.

• Day 24-28: Rest Days and Summit Window Waiting at Base Camp
  Rest at Base Camp while waiting for a clear weather window. Final preparations, including gear checks and oxygen system briefings, take place during this time.
• Day 29: Climb to Camp 2 (6,400m)
  When the weather window opens, climb through the Khumbu Icefall and spend the night at Camp 2.
• Day 30: Climb to Camp 3 (7,200m)
  Ascend the Lhotse Face again to Camp 3, where you’ll begin using supplemental oxygen.
• Day 31: Climb to Camp 4 (7,950m) on the South Col
  Continue the climb to Camp 4, crossing the Yellow Band and Geneva Spur. Camp 4, on the South Col, is your final camp before the summit push.
• Day 32: Summit Day (8,848m)
  Begin the summit push late at night or early in the morning. Climb through the Balcony, traverse the South Summit, and finally, reach the true summit of Everest. After celebrating at the top of the world, descend back to Camp 4.
• Day 33: Descend to Camp 2
  After a night of rest at Camp 4, descend to Camp 2, retracing your steps and navigating the technical sections with care.
• Day 34: Descend to Base Camp
  Complete the descent to Base Camp, where a well-deserved celebration awaits.
• Day 35-40: Contingency Days
  Contingency days for any delays

Departure from Base Camp

With the summit achieved, it’s time to leave Base Camp and begin the journey back to civilization.

• Day 41: Trek to Pheriche (4,371m)
  Begin the trek back down the Khumbu Valley, descending to Pheriche.
• Day 42: Trek to Namche Bazaar (3,440m)
  Continue descending, enjoying the warmer air and lush surroundings as you return to Namche Bazaar.
• Day 43: Trek to Lukla (2,860m)
  The final day of trekking brings you back to Lukla, where the journey began.
• Day 44: Fly to Kathmandu
  Fly back to Kathmandu, where you can relax and reflect on the incredible achievement.
• Day 45: Departure
  Depart Kathmandu or continue exploring Nepal, with memories of Everest to last a lifetime.

Final Thoughts

Climbing Everest is a life-changing experience, but it’s not a decision to be taken lightly. The journey to the summit requires years of preparation, rigorous training, and the right guidance. Whether you’re a seasoned climber or just starting our comprehensive approach ensures that you’ll be well-prepared for every aspect of the climb.

When choosing a company for your Everest expedition, it’s essential to check their records, reviews, and success ratio. A company with a proven track record, experienced guides, and a commitment to safety and support is invaluable.

With over 30 years of experience, a 1:1 sherpa guide-to-client ratio, and a commitment to providing premier climbing experiences at a value for money, we are here to guide you every step of the way. Your Everest journey begins with us—let’s make it to the top together.