Tips for mera peak

Top 10 Tips for Mera Peak Climb

Planning on climbing the Mera Peak? Read our top 10 tips for Mera Peak which will give you an idea on what to expect and how to prepare. With over 30 years of experience in trekking and climbing in the Himalayas, we are here to help you prepare for the Mera peak climbing. 

Mera Peak Climb, the highest and most popular trekking peak in Nepal offers one of the most rewarding challenges. Standing tall at an elevation of 6476m, Mera peak provides a straight forward introduction to mountaineering which attracts hundreds of climbers every season. The climb is suitable for people with basic mountaineering experience and a good level of fitness. However, it’s important to remain humble and receptive to the climb. 

The trek into the remote and beautiful Hinku valley, climb in an expedition style, reward yourself with the view of five 8000m mountains from the summit are all main highlights of Mera Peak. While many categorize Mera as the easiest Himalayan peak, Mera is the highest trekking peak in Nepal and offers many challenges apart from the technical climbing. While the climb is not technically difficult, the high-altitude effect and long arduous walk make this a strenuous adventure. Find out how difficult is Mera peak climb? If you are looking for something more than just trekking then Mera Peak is your first and ideal Himalayan climb.

Top 10 tips for Mera Peak Climb.

Mera and Island Peak
Group photo at the summit of Mera peak.

Gather experience

The first and foremost important tip for Mera peak is to gather experience of high altitude trips. Mera peak is the highest trekking peak in Nepal with an elevation of 6476m above sea level. You will need to spend multiple nights above 5000m which makes it harder for people without previous experience of high altitude trips. While the peak doesn’t require the experience of technical climbing, having previous experience of high altitude trips (5000m) is greatly beneficial for Mera Peak. Everest Base Camp and Kilimanjaro serve as a great training ground for Mera.

Prepare at least 6 months before the climb

Train yourself at least 6 months before your arrival in Nepal. Mera Peak is not just about the 2-3 days climbing to the summit but involves weeks of trekking too. On the trek, every day you need to walk for 6 hrs. on average ascending and descending on different terrain. The climbing days are even harder due to longer walking hours and higher elevation. Train yourself by going on a hike, gym etc. Progression is the key here, and don’t fall into the trap of too much too fast. It means starting slow and gradually increasing the effort and amount of training per week. Begin your training with general conditioning and slowly do the specific training for the climb. 

Be mentally prepared

Mind over the body and this is what you need to understand and keep in mind. All your training and hard work will be to no avail if you are not mentally prepared. Be prepared to tackle harsh weather, strenuous walks, cold and sleepless night. Out there in Mera, it’s all basics so be prepared to connect with nature. When climbing in the remote part, always hope for the best and prepare for the worst.

Schedule best time to come, avoid summer and winter

Experience (√) Training (√) Timing (X) This could jeopardize your whole holiday.
Choosing the best time to come is as essential as previous experience and training. Although we cannot control the weather and it’s not in our hand, we can mitigate the failure by choosing the best time. In general, Spring (Late March to Early May) and Autumn (Mid-September to Mid Nov) are considered the best time to climb Mera peak. Avoid winter (Dec to Mid-March) and summer/monsoon (June to Mid-September) as the weather tends to be poor and heavy snowfall are likely. 

Do not make your itinerary tight and strict

Making your itinerary tight and strict is never an option. If you have a strict itinerary with little to no rooms for error, perhaps you should consider your itinerary again. Many companies offer Mera peak climbing in just 16/17 days and this can possess a serious threat especially when climbing a 6000m peak. The short duration itinerary is to lower the prices of the climb but this can seriously affect your goal of reaching the summit. Allow more rest and acclimatization days in the itinerary.

At Highland Expeditions, we follow the longer approach on Mera itinerary (Avoiding Zatrwa La Pass on the way up).  Our Mera peak itinerary includes rest & contingency days, overnight at Mera high camp and a one free day in Kathmandu after the climb. All these have increased our summit chances and we have a higher probability of summiting than those who have a strict itinerary.

Mera peak climb

Find a trusted guide and company

Climbing a 6000m peak is a demanding task and it requires more effort, planning, arrangements and trusted guides. Many people despite having previous experience and training have not been able to summit Mera Peak due to unqualified guides and improper arrangements. Go with a trusted and reputed company who have qualified guides and experience on leading these climbing adventures. Find out the safety measures taken for the trip and ensure everything is up to your satisfaction before confirming your trip. On our peak climbing trips, we provide 1:3 guide to climber ratio, supplementary oxygen system and satellite phone. 

Get the right clothing and equipment

We don’t need to exaggerate more about getting the right clothing and equipment. Your whole trip could end miserably if you have not got yourself the right gear and clothing. You will need complete climbing gear for Mera Peak and its always advisable to get every gear checked and packed in Kathmandu. At Khare, you can rent the climbing equipment (Boot, Harness, Crampons, etc) from the teahouses/lodges but they may or may not have the correct size for you. Make sure the climbing boot fits well, make sure you have got warm clothing, gloves, socks etc. 

Do a climbing course before the summit attempt

Do a climbing course at Khare before going for the summit push. Allow one day to learn the techniques and skills required for the climb. If you have previous experience of climbing then its greatly beneficial but if you are completely new to the climbing, then this course will help you a lot. Get comfortable walking with your climbing boots on, learn to rappel and the basic use of climbing gears.

Personal health and hygiene

Mera Peak is a three weeks long journey into the remote and beautiful Hinku valley. With little to no health post-en-route, maintaining personal health and hygiene is very important. Things to keep in mind are the use of hand sanitizers, drink properly boiled water, avoid meat and bakery, use a good sunscreen and wear a proper layer of clothing. Bring your personal first aid kit which should consist of medications (Altitude Sickness, Diarrhea, Headache, Painkiller, Bandages, Antiseptics, Blister Tapes etc). Many companies will provide a comprehensive medical kit with supplementary oxygen system on Mera Peak.

Slow and Steady

The last on our list of top 10 tips for Mera peak is to be slow and steady. Slow and steady with all the preparation will get you to the summit and back safely. If you put too much pressure on yourself for climbing quickly, you will quickly give up.

Conclusion:

We hope these tips for Mera peak will help you in planning and preparation of the climb. Remember Mera is not the easiest peak and neither it is a trek. Prepare yourself well ahead for the climb, choose the right itinerary, bring proper and complete equipment and take it slow and steady. Remember to turn around when necessary and don’t forget to bring your favourite treat/snack.

If you have any questions or need any additional information about the climb, please feel free to get in touch with us. 

THE SUMMIT IS JUST THE HALFWAY POINT

About Author

Highland Expeditions is a high altitude adventure travel company based in Kathmandu, Nepal founded by local alpine experts with over 30 years of experience in trekking and mountaineering in the Himalayas.

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